Alignment question

Instead of simply saying "3/2 supreme suspension", I suggest you describe the type of lift (e.g. spacer front, block rear) or link the exact lift kit; albeit in this case a knowledgeable person should be able to deduce/guess "above coil spacer" from "factory struts". BTW, technically they are coil overs; not struts.

 

Coil over Spacer in front, 2” block rear

 

That's some high caster...
It's another thing affecting the steering linkage geometry. Leading trail is also signicantly increased; combined with positive scrub, anytime the forward outer part of the contact patch hits a bump, it's creating a larger moment arm levering the tires.

 

I would personally stay away from excessive Caster. The additional load on the rack-n-pinion will cause them to wear sooner.
Ideal for these trucks is about 2.0 degrees of Caster at 0 degrees Camber.
The main issue when lifting your truck is that you can't get the camber correct. Most alignment shops will set the caster good because that is more important for your vehicle handling.

The JBA that you are installing will give you additional Caster so your lower cams can be used to get the Camber correct. However that will cause your tires to rub on your cab mounts. (Requiring CMC) or very high Caster.

If you'd like to clear your cab mount and still get your alignment to spec? I would recommend a set of SPC UCA and set them at +.25 Caster and use the UCA's to get the Camber close and have the alignment shop dial it in.

You may need to trim the front fender liner or do the viper cut but, that would be a better set up for your truck.

 

I have 4* on my truck after I took it to a 4wd shop and asked them to fix a rubbing issue I was having with my 255/85r16 tires. Other than the steering requiring more effort I have not noticed any difference other than a lack of rubbing. I’m not sure if it would be possible to solve the rubbing issue and stay within the caster spec. I have SPC UCAs.

 

Like I said, caster can be subjective.
But out of curiosity, how much lift and what kind of offset?

 

Factory UCAs actually give way more clearance at the cab mount and firewall. But they can max out when fully flexed. This is why SPCs are the best IMO. You set them to the factory G location. Then max out the lca bolts. This gives you 2* caster and maximum cab mount clearance. Zero rub on 33s.

 

Stock OR rims and started a recent thread about my ride height measurements. See first and last posts.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/surprising-lift-measurements.736652/

 

Definitely possible. But for maximum clearance 2* is about max with SPCs but that drives perfectly fine.

 

Finally someone that knows how to tune SPC arms! Been preaching this for years since I did it on my 96 4runner like 8 years ago. No one believes me. G or F setting, maxed lcas and 2* is perfect for 33s and no rubbing at all.

 

JBA UCA’s have 2.5* caster built in. I know all alignments are different but what numbers should I shoot for?

 

I've seen some crazy stuff, but it looks like your wheels are loose. That is some touchy steering. In the old days of recirculating ball steering boxes before rack and pinion you would see that and you would use a steering stabilizer to fix it. Essentially a shock on the steering linkage to dampen the impact.

Your alignment numbers could be better with some higher caster, but as bad as it looks in the video, I'm not thinking a degree or two will make much difference. How is it when you drive down the road? are you sawing back and forth on the steering wheel to keep straight?

 

Yeah I first started messing around with SPC UCA's back in 07 or so when the first came out with Tacoma UCA's they were called "Light Racing" Back then. Great concept and versatility in these UCA's. Most alignment places have no idea on how to adjust these.

 

Same with me. I got the light racing ones for like $279. Lowest price ever I think. I had a few shops say they knew how to adjust them and set them to A. I could barely back out the parking lot. So then I fine tuned every setting till I found that sweet spot. Also found the hard way that they need 220lbs/tq on ball joint or they would slip when I was out wheeling.

 

Higher caster? He needs less caster.

 

Drives fine down the hwy. maybe a little sway nothing to concerning though.

 

After my lift and tire mods, I took my truck to my normal shop (2 blocks away) for an alignment. They brought it into spec, but I had rubbing when stuffed and turning; dropping off ledges and hitting steep inclines. So I took it to a 4wd shop and asked them if they had experience with alignments with SPC UCAs. They said yes and seemed to have a lot more experience with the problem. They fixed the rubbing issue, but I now have 4* caster.

If I am understanding you guys, I might have been able to solve my rubbing problem and still keep the caster in spec.

 

That’s what I’m gathering.

 

I was apprehensive about changing my offset/backspace because I trust the Toyota engineers and I saw no functional advantage. I also didn’t want to cut my truck. But I also wanted to drive over shit. It worked it self out, but think I probably over spent on the king shocks. They are a work of art I have to say.

 

Negative. The higher the caster number, the more stability. The closer to zero the worse the tracking and the lighter the steering.