Intermittent No Start

Hello everyone! I've been having an issue with my 2013 Base model for the last few weeks now, where my truck will start up just fine most of the time, but maybe once or twice a week I'll get crank but no start. My battery is only a year old so I don't believe there's anything wrong with it, but I've tested the battery with a multimeter anyways and, as I figured, all the numbers are on point.

I'm having a hard time narrowing down the possible causes because it's an intermittent problem. For example, I got in the truck to go to work today and cranked for a good 10 seconds, but no start. Tried that a couple times until I ended up taking my wife's car, and then when I got home, my truck fired up in less than 3 seconds. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and everything is in order. The OEM starter turns like normal and doesn't seem to be going out. I find it odd to go from not starting to starting just fine a few hours later after just sitting there. Has anyone else had this kind of issue or can recommend what to look into? I'm a little curious about what role the outside temperature could play in this situation, because it's been in the triple digits these last few weeks when I've been having this issue, but then in the evenings after it's cooled down a bit I never have any problems. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

Could be vapor locking the fuel in the lines, doubtful but possibly.

My guess is some fuel delivery issue if it isn't a transponder key issue.

Are you using the same key the same way evwry time?

Do you have a lot of other keys or accessories on that same keyring?

Try using the bare key only with everything else more than 3' away from the ignition.

If that's irrelevant then I'd consider looking into the fuel delivery system, may be time for the URD upgrade. (Well worth it IMHO.)

 

My truck isn't equipped with the engine immobilizer feature (thank god, those seem to cause lots of trouble) but I'm surprised I didn't think about vapor lock since I've seen it happen before, but on Fords mostly. Does URD make a kit for the 2.7? There's lots of cool mods I wouldn't mind doing but a lot of companies only make parts for the V6

 

Total guess..but check your battery cables at both ends.

Long ago I ran into this and it was puzzling, turned out the positive at the starter was loose as a goose.

 

If it was made after 2006 it should, find a key that you know starts the vehicle look near the head of it, is there a tiny dimple in the key body on one or both sides? Does the key have a thicker rubberized black head on it?

As for the fuel pump kit I believe it's the same between the six and four cylinders but I'm sure it can be easily verified through URD's website.

 

Scan it for codes

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it

 

USA 2.7 liter 2TR-FE doesn't have an immobilizer system.

Edit: The above applies to second generation as I understand it the Third Generation does have chipped keys.

 

Weird, even my 08 Scion, and both of my friends 05 and 09 Corrolla's all had the transponder dimple keys and immobilizers.

Wonder why Toyota didn't put it in the Tacoma, a much more expensive vehicle.

 

Mine does, 2TR-FE 2019, key has a chip, “H” on the key and a red light flashes on the dash when you shut the engine off and take the key out showing you’re protected. True for all 3rd gens 2016 on.
https://parts.toyotaofnashua.com/oe...toyota-ignition-immobilizer-module-897820e010

 

Both keys I have are the black rubberized head but they don't have the letter "G" or "H" engraved at the top of the metal like the transponder ones do. Additionally, although the light exists on the dash for engine immobilizer, it doesn't do anything. Then again, there's also a functional panic button on the keyless entry fob but if you unlock the doors from inside after locking it with the fob, there's no alarm. My truck is the bare bones base model with no bells or whistles, apart from a factory tow hitch and bed cleats. Even the fog lights I had to install and wire up myself because it's so minimal

 

It's not always a letter, if it has a head like this and that circled in green divot it's a transponder key.

Even if it's not it wouldn't hurt as a diagnostic step to just try a bare key with nothing else (like remotes other keys or fobs or even key chain decorations) within 3' of the ignition.

 

My keys looks exactly like this:

Another thing I've noticed between chip and non-chip keys are that the black part on the chip keys is a little bit more rounded than the non-chip counterpart. I've experimented with this in the past and did my research and this is ultimately what I concluded. No dimple at the top and the shape of the black part is different.

Funny enough, after I parted out my 98 I still had one of the rubber top keys that looked very similar to this one on my keyring and accidentally used it to start my 2013 a few times...it didn't work as smooth and took some jiggling of the key in the ignition but it would start the engine. Eventually I realized my ignition switch wasn't broken and I was using the wrong key to start my truck when I had to jiggle it.

 

Delete, don't expose your key cut online

 

I'm glad that they didn't, cheap keys and less trouble.

 

So long as there is no divot on either side and like you said the similar but non-transponder keys are slimmer in profile on the head then I guess you could count that out.

Something else related you could try to get a key cut from your VIN at the dealer for a fresh one incase part of your issue is the key lands not properly engaging the ignition system fully or properly.

Some key cuts are more sensitive to this than others.

My Uncle has a tundra you can start with an uncut key blank but my '00 was having issues with the cylinder turning/starting until I cut a key off the VIN.

Yeah I have an old school flat steel key and one that has the remote built into the head cut for my truck, the remote doesn't work and neither will start the truck but it does work to open the doors.

Supposedly I could get the remote headed one to work with mine but haven't been assed to try.

Toyota has used the same keyways for years and years.

 

Haha not actually my key, mine are upstairs...this one came from a different thread about chip/non chip keys. But my point is mine look identical, no dimple and the top is a bit different

 

Well, this is the 2nd Generation Forum....

 

Ah okay, still whomever posted their key...

 

I will say the whole key thing is a security flaw.

My dad owned the 98 before I did and he was able to help someone with the same truck who locked their keys in once...by using his own key.

...anyways my thoughts on my truck are leaning towards a fuel issue ( I did check on URD and they DO make a kit specifically for the 2.7! ) Once the sun is up I'll probably check for leaks in the fuel line and change the filter just for the hell of it. I'm almost to 100k miles and never serviced the filter. I hear they're supposed to be replaced every so often

 

You do know the filter is in the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump / float assembly.