Any woodworkers?

Depends, I do the same thing, lol. I'd buy them from someone local for that price. I see people asking $10 a piece for them but they never sell, postings are up forever.

 

Planned down the boards for the drawers, about 3/16" thick for the bottoms and about 3/8" for the backs. Maple is for the bottoms.

I don't know what the reddish colored wood is. All I know is that it came from India as packing crates. But it is hard and dense.

I drawer done. I had to spend some time with a sharp chisel removing old glue so everything would fit together nice again with fresh glue.

2 more in the clamps. I'll glue the backs in when this glue is dry.

 

Looks like cherry

 

Definitely not cherry.

 

Looks like sapele

 

That's kinda what I was thinking but I really have very little experience with exotics.

 

Any suggestions for worthwhile woodworking forums? I know @woodtickgreg has posted links to one... any recommendations for others?

 

I also like lumberjocks, but there's a lot of advertising.
Woodbarter is my home because of the community that is there, and no advertising. We are self funding.

 

There's also sawmill creek and wood working talk.

 

I just created an account but I'm having issues doing anything more than just an initial post.

 

There's also a solid woodworking community on instagram. I've been inspired and have a learned quite a bit using that platform...just make sure to unfollow/block anyone who is keen on posting about political nonsense or any of the other sludge that brought Facebook down.

 

HELP!!
I have been working on putting a new blade on my Jet DSX14 for over an hour now! The blade on the bottom wheel just will not line up with the top. I have adjusted everything I can think of. The blade on the bottom wheel is just barely on the wheel is just barely on the tire. I really don’t want to get into trying to see if the wheels are co-planer. Don’t know how anyway…

 

So many people are going to suggest Snodgrass, but not me...It's most important for your blade to be centered on the crown on the top wheel. If that's impossible because the blade will then be off the bottom wheel, you have no choice but to check for coplaner (easy to do with a 2x4 and some feelers). If the saw runs just fine as is (no vibration and it tracks straight), leave it alone.

 

It’s “barely” making contact, top and bottom. Even when I adjust the tracking to have the blade on the top wheel over to the right, it stays on the far left on the bottom wheel. I have it working “ok” now. More work on it tomorrow. Just wondering, would cheap blades have this type of effect?? I bought blades from Highland woodworks for about $15 each.

 

I"m shocked they even sell blades for that cheap - solid company. If you have a flat surface, lay your blade on it to see if the weld is off....could be the problem, but you'd also have vibration and I'd be surprised if it would cause that much of a deviation between your top/bottom wheel. Tells us more about the bandsaw, including your history with it.

 

i had bad luck with cheap blades, werent sharp at all. I had to look up what the original was for ryobi. Mine is smaller one though

 

+1; though, I purchased a new bandsaw last year and the blade wouldn't stop vibrating, despite trying the tension and flutter method a million times (barely exaggerating). Ultimately, the problem was fixed by replacing the OEM tires with 48" Long x 1.125" Wide x .090" Thick Bandsaw Tire for 17" Wheel, Pair at Grizzly.com. Through all that, never once did I have issues with the blade staying on both wheels at a relatively same location on each.