To start, or not to start, that is the question.

I think my truck is having an existential crisis since we brought a newer 4Runner into the family. Here’s where we are at with my 09 4.0 DCSB prerunner 163k miles;

• Drove ~10 miles yesterday, parked for 5 min, then truck wouldn’t start. Lifted hood, looked at stuff, got back in and it started and got home
• Today, truck won’t start. Lift hood, look at stuff, try again and no love.
  
• All lights, air, radio, dash, open door alarm, and keyless entry work- very well. No dimming or anything.
  
• Dash lights with key in on position include CEL, Battery, and oil. I think all make sense, oil since it’s not running, battery because well..I’m sure it makes sense, CEL because it’s broke.
  
• When I turn the key, 1 single click from the engine bay, no cranks/turning over.
  
• I can faintly hear the fuel pump engaging I believe
• Battery is OEM, less than 36mo old.
  
• Replaced spark plugs less than 36mo ago
• Coolant and oil are all good so I don’t suspect any sort of compression, cylinder or overall head issue. Also runs great, when running.
• I believe this is the original starter and alternator

I suspect starter. I’ll go whack it tomorrow and check relays and fuses. But assuming it’s something starter related, let’s say the actual starter not a relay, is there a more confident way to know? Cant find info on what codes may show. Is there a process, like checking alternator by metering the battery? I plan to clean all contacts as well but what else can I do while I’m under there?

Any other ideas?

 

I would start with the battery ( get it tested or meter it), then move to the alternator/starter and then on to the fuel pump

 

Check the thick cable connections (battery +) at battery and starter. Also check battery to engine ground. Make sure they are tight and not loose

Put a voltmeter across the battery and see if it stays above 10 volts while attempting to crank

If the cables are snug and the battery is strong check for 12 volts on the little control wire at the starter. If it has 12 volts when the key is in the crank position then it needs a starter

 

Very easy to test the starter with a test light, get a person to help you, block the wheels and crawl under the truck, connect your test light ground to the engine block or the starter body whichever is more convenient, touch your light to the big post with the big wire if it lights up have your helper try to crank the truck, if (it should stay lit, if it doesn't you have a bad connection in the main power or ground wires from the battery) move to the small wire and have them try to crank it (it should light up, if it doesn't you have a problem in the starter control circuit), if both of those tests pass but the starter isn't engaging you 100% have a bad starter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oo1SRIFIkhs

 

The key to this puzzle Bolded and Red and Underlined above. One single click and then nothing. That click is the starter relay which sends power to the starter solenoid to pull it in. The solenoid pulls in the plunger that connects the copper contacts for the starter motor power and extends the bendix gear to engage the flywheel. The problem is the copper contacts inside the solenoid are burned and need to be replaced.

You can buy the contacts and plunger new from Nations Starter and Alternator for about 30 - 35 bucks. Much cheaper than hundreds for a rebuilt POS from Autozone or big bucks from the dealer.

https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/Starter-Rebuild-Kits-s/37.htm


Check this video for rebuilding the solenoid on the starter. The biggest issue with the V6 Engine and 4X4 is you have to take the starter out through the drivers wheel well area.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwokxzjlYcQ

 

Short the battery positive to the starter and see if the engine turns over. If it does, your problem is most likely internal to the starter.

 

Thank you! Looks like it’s kind of a bitch to pull the starter on this truck but as soon as parts come I’ll give it a go.

 

You can do this? Like with out using the ignition key to close the circuit?

 

Here’s your answer. I had the exact same intermittent no start issue. After replacing the contacts it starts 100% of the time.

 

Did you do the work yourself? I’m worried about trying to get that thing out. Watched some videos and seems like a real pita

 

Did it myself. Basic sockets, extensions, ratchet and such. I had to use the vice for something. Search for it, you’ll find detailed instructions. I posted my experience with pictures somewhere.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-starter-source.718589/

 

Yea looks like a few people have noted pressing the replacement contacts into the solenoid housing before bolting in. Thanks for the insight!

 

yes, done it a few times, not on taco but on other vehicles

 

Oh...saw the vice mention. Interesting, good to know. Thanks again

 

No shit. I assume you mean the part where the shorts the bolts for the solenoid and mentions “while on the car with the key in the on position”. Good info! Thanks

 

yes, essentially you are bypassing the solenoid plunger contacts to check if applying 12V directly to the motor will spin the starter.

 

Update for all. Special thanks to @Jimmyh for pointing me in the right direction.

Went with the starter solenoid replacement kit from Nations with the plunger and contacts.

Pretty much all the threads I read on this had accurate, solid info... except one thing. If you unbolt the harness(?) that has the starter positive that attaches to the starter off, it unbolts from transmission under the starter housing, you can get the starter out and back in by dropping the starter down under the transmission and out over the skid plate without disconnecting steering, removing skid plate, taking starter apart, etc. I initially took it out through the drivers side wheel well Tetris style, but realized it’s twice as easy to put it back in through the bottom and realized I should’ve taken it out that way too.

The other thing that worked better for me was with that damned upper bolt. I saw many people say they used long extensions and universals to get to it and get it off. I took a 14mm socket, on a 1/2” (apx 12” long) breaker bar with additional foot of pipe for leverage and broke it then just ratcheted the thing off. No universal, no extensions, adapters, etc. The lower bolt I did the same but you can get it with ratchet from the get go.

The rebuild was easy enough, but for the love of god take pictures of how those contacts are bolted in. Spent way too long trying to remember which order the various washer, bolts, o-rings, etc went.

But she’s alive! Running good. Thanks all!

TLDR: issue was starter solenoid, rebuild kit from nations, use socket and breaker bar for upper bolt, take the starter out through the bottom, take pictures when you break into the solenoid.

Edit: 1/2” breaker, not 1/4”, is that even a thing?

 

Nice to hear it worked out. Good tip on that removal