Driveline vibration of axle/transmission shaking

The dealer did the transmission software update, I think they did it twice.
No,I cannot be sure they checked the fluid level correctly
I don’t have any error codes
I dont have a code reader

remember the problems appeared just after that long 4x4 ride

 

Dealers can clear the virtual memory of the transmission without upgrading the ECU .
There would be a new sticker under the hood if they did an upgrade.
Most transmission error codes will not illuminate the dash light
Considering you are due for a transmission service (60K ) , its the first thing I would be looking at , but I would try and get the dealer to do it for you because their first attempts did nothing and you should have this in writing
below is the upgraded tsb . Notice it goes from 2016 - 2020 . There is close to $2500 in upgraded parts . I suggest pushing the dealer to perform the TSB propelry

 

Thank you very much but I think I won’t be qualified for this tsb since The truck has passed the 36 months or 60k km limit and I do have a suspension lift, leafs are not stock.

I can’t see any sticker under the hood about the transmission

maybe sould I work on the fact that the transmission does erratic things

 

You are correct about Toyota going 3 years or 60K with their TSB,s
If you have written proof that you complained about the transmission in the past and the problem remained after Toyota tried fixing the problem ,they may help you out but I beleive a phone call to corporate to plead your case will get the ball rolling .

If you are planning to keep the truck , I highly suggest a scan guage or something similar to access the computer controls as well as monitor transmission temps . Most guys run a scan guage
https://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/toyota-lexus-scion/

Would you consider doing a transmission service at home ?

 

Perhaps I can lend some experience, in a different direction. I recently lifted my 2020 OR 3 inches in the front, and 2 inches in the rear. I went trail riding in 4 Hi and 4 Low the entire trail. Noticed soon after, a vibration from a stop at medium throttle. Keep in mind, I have a manual. In doing research, realized that lifting the truck puts the left front inner CV triple bearing joint at a bad angle. Makes the vibration feel 3 times the speed of wheel speed, and only becomes apparent AFTER the first use of 4wd. Please look up EAST COAST GEAR SUPPLY 8 inch bushing replacement for the stock needle bearing. I installed the bushing, and has reduced the vibration by 90 %. I noticed the needle bearing was very loose on the CV axle, and just walks on the outer edges of the needles. Please note, the truck has 4,700 miles on it. Crawl under the truck, and feel how loose the inboard joint is, where it goes into the diff. Again, please google the issue to understand further what I am talking about. Another dead give away.... Put the truck in 4wd, and try to replicate the vibration. If it lessens greatly, then the bushing upgrade is your answer, hands down. Sorry its a long comment, hope it helps.

 

This ^^^^

I could see the needle bearing in the front differential wearing out quickly driving that long in 4x4 .
I beleive its the way he explained the problem that possibly steered us in a different direction regarding the shifting .
I did point to the bushing back in post 11 as well as some other issues , but he never answered any of the questions in the provided link

 

Understood. Trying to help.

 

I have in hands that brass bushing but have not installed it yet since I noticed that growling , humming noise and vibration between 35 and 70 km/h. I plan to install it soon. The humming issue exists since day 1 after the truck has been lifted and is sometimes hardly noticeable and sometimes easier. I am used to that feeling and my new issue is very different than that. Wondering if the needle bearing issue could generate that kind of shudders that just appeared in addition of the cyclic growling ? Thank you for the infos

 

I would let the fluid replacement be done by the garage , i will take a look a this gauge thank you

 

As I answered to 1984suzukilt185, I am used to ear that needle bearing issue which that cyclic humming is felt also when the drive train is free( no gas pedal or in neutral ), this is why I tought it could not be linked. Symptoms are very different ! For the other questions I did the missfire test, all u joints were inspected and greased correctly last week, carrier bearing is fine, i cannot say atf has been correctly checked. My last appointment was 13k kms ago for engine oil change. It was hot when it happened the first time ( the lasts 45 km on my 500 km ride that were on asphalt on 2 wd ) the slip yoke has been greased also last week I do have a lift : 5100 all around with ome 887 coils, icon progressive aal with overload on. No front diff drop, no carrier bearing drop, no rear axle shims and everything ride smooth without vibrations since the installation of the lift ( may 2019 ) winter tires are a little bit smaller than oem ( 245-75-r16 ) .... thank tou guys for your help , we will find something!

 

I noticed the growling on mine as well. Realized the skid plate was up against the front diff, due to diff lowering spacers. Corrected the skid plate, and the bushing at the same time. Feels like stock again for me. Glad you bought the bushing. I feel that even stock rigs would benefit from this upgrade. Thanks for the response.

 

Oh yes , my wheels are hubcentrics and oem from another tacoma trim/year and about what I read in your link in the post 11 I believe that flex lock issues is described the same way I fell the problem ( It looks like I would shift from 1st to 4 th gear with an MT ) ... thank you!

 

Awesome job .
Never hurts to do a little reading .
The Tacoma has a lot of different vibrations .
Hopefully the vibration thread helps

 

Update: I had my atf replaced by the dealer, it was low by 1/4 qt and It began to show signs of use ( 77k km only ) so I decided to ask for a fluid replacement for a piece of mind as gearcruncher suggested me! Dealer told me that my transmission’s ecu was up to date and there was nothing to do with it about the programmation. Yesterday I did a 400 kms road test and did not notice any shudders. I am not sure it camed from the transmission because the last two days before I had the atf replaced, it gradually went away. As soon as possible I will swap the needle beauring for that brass bushing to eliminate the vibration and will check to driveshaft angles, I will keep informed thank you!

 

Oh Well. I had my ECGS bushing installed and replaced the diffs fluid by the same time. Everything rides smooth and the issue never occured anymore since the ATF replacement. But... today I just noticed that the dealer forgot a drill bit that pins the thermostat open. I have been driving 10k miles since this day in cold and hot climates. The replacement has been done in december and I live in Quebec. Could this pinned stat bring another issue? What should I do with that? I don't think it is related but I also noticed that the shif lever is hard to travel since a few months when the truck is parked for several days. Thank you guys
@gearcruncher

 

Those darn shift levers can get tight . The most common problem I have seen is spraying the shifter bushings under the console . I think there is a write up showing what screws to remove to get to the shifter mechanism and where to spray the lubricant . If you are in Quebec , you are in the rust belt of Canada . It wouldnt hurt to go under the truck and spray all the shifter cable bushings at the same time .

I cant see a problem with the thermostat accidently remaining pinned . Yes , it took longer for your transmission to warm up and you most likely went through a bit more fuel but this wont cause any long term effects . Some members pin the thermostat open for the summer months

 

Thank you, I will be spaying that cable ans lever mechanism this after noon and come back...

 

So I just sprayed theses bushings and cables, everything is now really smooth with the shifter! Thank you. I just removed the drill bit that was there and the little round thermostat shaft is stuck pressed in.. maybe due to corrosion. Is there a way to unseize it without disassembly ?

 

Spray the hell out of it , then some gentle tapping with a small wrench

 

It won’t moove… All I could do is to push it deeper! If I take out the snap ring to pull out the whole insert, will I loose fluid?