I can't find a good answer on LED replacement bulbs

Let me start by saying I know there have been many threads on this exact topic in the past. However, most of the threads are a few years old and there never is much consensus.
I have a 2018 SR5 and (obviously) want to get rid of the crummy halogen bulbs it comes with. I don't want an entire new headlight system, just replacement bulbs. A few of the LED replacement bulbs I've been told about are no longer available. I also hear complaints about fan noise, flickering, overheating, and other issues with some LED replacement bulbs. Is there a current "go to" on the market for LED's in a Tacoma? Ideally I'd like something plug and play and don't have to worry about in terms of overheating, damaging the truck's wiring, etc.

Thank you in advance!

 

I'd start here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/

 

The consensus I get from reading the many posts on this topic is that to truly benefit from LED headlights, you need the entire headlight housing as the reflector configuration is different from what is used behind a halogen. The bulbs may look brighter from outside of the truck, but their "reach" using stock housings sucks. If you live in snow country halogens are actually better because the heat they emit helps to keep the headlights free of accumulating snow & ice. Keep searching and reading here on TW.

 

I have an SR5 too and I also wanted LED headlights. Unfortunately, using LED bulbs in a halogen assembly is a bad idea.

I would recommend committing to the LED conversion with some aftermarket assemblies or OEM LED Headlights with a conversion harness made by @Puppypunter

 

See the linked thread posted earlier. If you think stock bulbs are 'crummy' replacement LEDs are going to be even worse. They'll give you lots of foreground light and make you think they are brighter, but the distance projection will not match what a halogen is capable of. For a halogen assembly you should use halogen bulbs. In H11 the best are Tungsram Platinum or Tungsram Xenon +120. To get even better performance swap an H9 into the low beam, the best tested are the Philips standard H9s or the Hella Performance 2.0s if you want something a little whiter. If you are absolutely set on LED, the best is Morimoto 2stroke 3.0, but they are easily beat by performance halogens as documented in the mentioned thread.

 

Diode Dynamics is what I have been using, direct drop in and I run the low and high beams. Extremely impressed, dark roads here and they light up better that the supposedly the ge mega 130s what everyone raves about. I see all the test but I know what I see and these lights are perfect as I see further, they have a wider throw and I never get flashed by on coming traffic. I know what they say but just Google the diode Dynamics and you will see.

 

https://www.amazon.com/HIKARI-Acme-...child=1&keywords=hikari&qid=1632120537&sr=8-3

The previous Hikari Ultras were amazing. These Hikari Acme-X improve on those even further.

 

Your being impressed is the same reason why people recommend poor performing Amazon LEDs swearing they are better because "they know what they see", but truth is people are highly misled by foreground light. Example of such a product a member swore was so much better in review post #1885 here. Likewise the Diode Dynamics SL1 are poor performing in the 3rd Gen projector as documented in the review posted here. As for the high beam you traded out a 2100 lumen rated light source, operating at 2400+ lumens with a much lower 1700 lumen LED with reduced focus which will not only illuminate less but also the loss of focus will greatly reduce the distance projection which is the entire point of a high beam. The SL1 is definitely not recommended. If set on LED there are vastly superior LEDs to those such as the Morimoto 2stroke 3.0s, though they will also be outperformed by performance halogens.

 

I have Hikari, so far (two + years) no complaints. definitely better than the stock.

 

The original Hikari Ultras were decent, the new Acme-X BS deserves a hard pass. They don't replicate a halogen at all and have integrated the hottest part of the LED (the driver) into the LED base which will reduce output. New designs are not always better, they are clearly betting on people falling for the weird integrated driver as an advantage even though it is a handicap and hoping people overlook they botched the optic design and lost all their performance advantages.

 

@crashnburn80

So the H, L, Fogs totaling 6 bulbs of Hella H11 2.0 Could all fit and look good as long as I do the modification?

 

Welcome to the forum!

I think you meant Hella H9 2.0. You only need to modify for the low beam. Note that your OEM high beam uses German Philips H9s which are slightly higher performing than the Hella units, so I wouldn't bother to replace the high beam bulbs. For the fogs, H9s are not glare capped like an H11. While this does not essentially matter in projector like the low beam, it does matter in an open reflector like a fog, as you will expose oncoming drivers to the light source and glare. For your H11 fog I'd recommend either the Tungsram H11 Platinums or Xenon +120s as the best performing H11 bulbs.

 

Thanks @crashnburn80

Lows- Hell 2.0 H9
Highs- German Phillips H9
Fogs- Tungsram Plats

much appreciated

 

I can appreciate the testing you have performed as well as the data you have.

I have run the stock lights for little over 3 years and had the lights professionally aimed three days after I bought it- and the distance that they gave was garbage and did not illuminate the road as much or as far as the LED’s do. Projection Tacoma lights , IMO were engineered to ease the on coming drivers glare and not aid the actual operator of the vehicle. Which either way you look at it can prove a dangerous driving condition by tests.

While I can see that your scientific tests prove otherwise, I respectfully will stick with my Hakari for lows, highs, fog. I can see the road with plenty of distance as well as wide angle. (which is safer for me - the operator). As far as blinding or glaring oncoming, that happened with stock just as much as these LED’s, I just flash my lights back. And they quickly realize that they should of bought a truck or vehicle that sits higher or they cuss me out.

When I drive my daughters vehicle it sits real low ( Kia Forte) and just about ever headlight is bright, I adjust my mirrors accordingly, have a cheap pair of anti glare glasses I wear and go about my business. This day and age everyone is offended by something someone else does/has and we are led to believe that we must change when in fact those who claim offense need to look in a mirror.

 

Went through two sets of chinese leds and was very unhappy with spread and reach. Piaa were twice as much but have much closer beam pattern to stock while throwing a wider and whiter light

 

Same here!!!

 

If I were in charge, as obviously I should be...anyone running LEDs in OEM housings would be pulled over, ticketed and vehicle towed. Second offense - vehicle set on fire. Third offense - surgically remove your eyelids.

 

I love these threads! Peoples inability to comprehend and then argue against meticulously measured scientific data amazes me. @crashnburn80 has built the most comprehensive list of headlight bulb comparisons for this specific application that you will find anywhere. Anywhere! Here are the headlights that we all have. Here is every possible bulb that will fit. Here is all of the data collected from testing. No need to do the math. Here’s a list from best to worst. It’s all done for you. And you’ll still get ignorant responses like, “well, in my opinion” or “to my eyes”. The dude is posting actual numbers. Not once was his opinion or his eyesight used to measure anything. One guy even stated earlier that headlights weren’t designed to aid the driver; that they’re only to ease glare for oncoming drivers. WTF?! You can’t be serious. “Here’s a light to see in the dark, but it’s not really designed for that. It was actually designed so that you don’t blind others if you do decide to use it.” Come on, man. Where are you getting this ridiculous information? Oh wait, that was your opinion, based on nothing of value. That’s so dumb. Just stop... The bottom line is that if you still run led’s in the halogen projector after examining all of the data provided, you’re an idiot & your “opinion” is shit. & that’s just fact.

 

I have used both LED and HID, I used the DDM HID kit and loved them, never got flashed, really good beam pattern and crisp cutoff. I then switched the LED (hikari) and the pattern just doesnt look right, It seems to slope up one side, the cut off is not as crisp and clean either.

I will be swapping the LED bulbs to my high beams and putting HID back in before winter.

 

Yea, but your not!!!