*THE RTT Owners Thread (With BS)*

I have the Milwaukee version since all my work tools are Milwaukee. And it was very useful not only keeping the tent cool, but. As an aid in getting some damp wood into a nice bed of coals.

 

An interesting comparison of a Smitty Built RTT and an iKamper RTT. Seems to be basically a "bang for your buck" video.

 

I’d just cut a patch out of aluminum and use blind rivets to attach and 3m body sealer. I put dents in mine too somehow. But no punctures

 

Anyone have any experience with these? Are they actually waterproof? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-2...ner-with-Hinged-Lid-in-Black-246841/312898941

 

I’m going to have black diamond plating glued to the surface of the tent. Then seal around it so hopefully it will be water tight, when it’s all said and done.

 

Recent Moab trip. 2nd trip with the RTT. No issues to date.

Roam Vagabond w/annex.

 

No experience with those, however I do use the the rigid boxes from home depot. I think I have 3 of the medium and 2 small right now. And it has saved me alot of space over the old Rubbermaid footlocker I used.

A mix of ..

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-22-in-Pro-Tool-Box-Black-221733/205440481



And

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-22-in-Pro-Organizer-Black-221735/205440492

I have been very pleased with them and they do seem to stay dry in some.heavy rains.. at least so far.

 

I have a couple of these. They are water and moisture resistant but not waterproof. If this was full with stuff and dropped in 3 feet of water, water would seep in. They are good to keep in the back of you truck and it will keep your stuff dry from the rain. Just don't overpack them to push the cover away from the seal. Personally I like these better and have 4 of them in my truck.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plano-68-qt-Sportsman-Trunk-Olive-Green-PLA068HD/312081519

And I used this around the inside of the groove in the cover to make them water resistant to keep things dry....
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...M-Medium-Gap-Weatherseal-Tape-V25GA/100081207

 

These roof tents are really getting outta control!

 

I was showing my wife the FWC pop up campers (hawk?) to pair with a Tundra. She suggested this, but rotated 90 degrees and placed on a flat bed so that the beds pull out the side and the door is at the rear. I still can't tell if it's madness or brilliance

 

madness. its definitely madness

 

That’s a strong rack.

 

Opened everything up to air out after all the rain we had the pass several months. No mold or mildew, and no bugs in it.

now I just need to build or buy some fenders.

 

CVT is having a 20-25% off sale and buy one get one half off sale this week.

Amazing thing is wife and I ordered a Mt Hood tent yesterday, and it is being delivered freight tomorrow. 2 day freight shipping is bananas!

Meanwhile the mounting bars and feet I ordered are looking like two weeks ship date

 

As a random thought to all those that off road hard and/or do long ass dirt road adventures, carrying roof top tents on bed racks that sit in the bed channels or on a camper shell…

Since I just ordered CVT Mt Hood this has been on my mind.

I have a leer shell with front runner roof racks on the camper shell and cab. I typically have carried the full size spare tire, pelican case with recovery gear, firewood, maxtrax, shovel etc when camping on long dirt road adventures (300 miles of dirt in a weekend) up to trails rated difficult in Moab and Colorado.



I put TC bed stiffeners before all those adventures. Even with them the bed is still showing a little separation, maybe 1/3” difference between the bottom of the tail gate and the top.

I will say a guesstimate of the weight of the roof racks and gear I’ve carried on the roof was about 265 lbs plus the camper shell itself is 200+ lbs. So it’s something to consider for people that have mounted their heavy tent to an already heavy roof rack rather than a few light slats.

As I have just ordered a CVT Mt Hood, I am going to pull both of the roof racks off my truck and mount the tent on low profile feet and two prinsu 48” slats on the camper shell , to keep the weight as low as possible and the tent as low as possible to keep the center of gravity down, as I plan to continue to off road hard with the tent on.


The reason I bring this up is that I have noticed issues elsewhere that people need to keep an eye out for.

Just below the plastic bed cap at back of the bed, the rivet holding the sheet metal above the tail light has broken off and the sheet metal is now pressing down on the tail light housing and actually cracking one of them.


I also noticed that that there is a crack in the sheet metal next to TC bed stiffener


As well as a crack in the sheet metal along the bottom of the back of the bed.



I’m not sure what I’m going to do about the cracks and squished tail lights. I may go to a bed rack that ties to the frame to lessen the weight and lose the camper shell.

(This is part and parcel with the multiple big cracks in my core support from off roading. At 160k miles of more and more aggressive off roading my poor truck is showing signs of wear and I will have to start getting creative to keep her together)

 

Depending on how married you are to the shell, you could get someone local to fab you up an aluminum interior skeleton that ties into the frame, that way some of the load on the shell/bedsides are shared with the frame. Or take a look at the bamf bed rack as that has frame supports, if you go the route of ditching the shell entirely.

 

there was a guy in the colorado trading post selling his cabish height rack that bolts into the bottom of the bed. not sure if its still available though. sounded like it was a one off deal or the company that made it went out of business