Anything welding

Got my eye on a 2017 Dynasty 280DX for $3500 with 86 hours on it and leads and regulator. I already have a coolmate 4 and pedal from my syncro 350 LX that I intend to use with, but it just seems like a heck of a good deal to pass up. It is so compact and lightweight compared to the 400lb transformer setup. Anybody got any feedback or history with a dynasty machine?

 

Take it for a test drive ! Make sure everything works full out put and control.

Not that your buying a paper weight .

Have you used inverter based Tig welder before I know in my case there was a learning curve.

About 1/2 the cost of new !

where is it coming out of ??

the age is from the serial number?

I am sure you know when Inverters go boom they are not cheap .

Best of luck.

 

I have only used my transformer setup with any significant time or detail. I had a diversion 165 inverter, but didn't have any of the control that a dynasty DX comes with. I have not verified by serial number thusfar, just by talking to the owner of his business and when he purchased the machine. I can pull it all up on the machine to verify when I get there to verify. I bought my syncrowave with the comfort of it being a transformer as is my 252. I was always a little leery of the inverters, but damn I don't really hear or see a lot of them frying themselves given the amount of time they have been around now. I think Jason had one burn up on him (multimatic) out of the box, but that is about it. I am not surrounding by it everyday so I hate to assume off limited data or speculate. I don't intend to drag this thing around in the bag of a truck or expose it to the elements this is for my garage.

 

I’ve been running a pair of 280dx’s at work for the past year or so. I’ve been running them wide open at 280a AC. The welder is undersized for our application, welding 1/2” to 5/8” 6061 extrusions. They are electrical bus energized to 13,800 volts and capable of 5500 amps of continuos current so each joint consists of a bunch of stringers totaling about 96’ of 4043 1/8” filler rod. One welder has been my main machine and hasn’t had a hiccup. The other welder took a shit on me after 2 hours of arc time, Miller repaired it under warranty and it’s been good since. I don’t think the failure was miller’s fault, the welder had been thrown in a bin (strapped down) and driven down 4 miles of bumpy dirt road at 40mph daily for over a year(not by myself). I know the drive was hard on equipment as it also caused a brand new aluma-reel setup to snap two reels off and fail.

If I could afford it, I’d trade my 200dx for a 280 without hesitation. The failure at my work prompted the bosses to take the advice I’ve given from the start and buy a 400dx. Hopefully it will be here next week.

 

Those are great welds for sure.

Having said that, anything at a higher voltage, typically has a lower amperage, meaning those welds really don't have to be great.

Having worked in substations for a large portion of my life, I would say that those welds are among the better ones that I've seen. Again, most utilities don't really care too much about quality from what I've seen (at least as far as welds are concerned).

In my experience, they only care if "it works"...

 

Thanks


Welding is a dying trade in the substation construction industry, especially with companies like dmc power making crimp on connectors for just about everything. It’s very common in the powerhouse buisness that the welder is just a wireman who learned welding on the job, especially with the contractors. I’m lucky to work for a municipality that puts quality far above production.

This stuff really isn’t important from a structural standpoint, the bus I normally build is 2”ips ladder bus for 230 and 500kv breaker positions, it’s ampacify requirements are only 1500 amps per phase or so. That is a little more structural, and while working at one of our Vegas locations we found some bus contractors had done that failed and was just connected by gravity.

this is the type of bus I normally build, when I fitting/welding

 

Would like some opinions on achieving better/accurate cuts.

I like to generally do things myself and have invested a lot into wood and metal tools. I am looking into plasma but there is a whole new world if I can get a cnc table. Would be nice for a table to handle both. From what I read it’s not practical for a 2in1 because plasma doesn’t require as much torque to move vs a router that is like milling and things would need to be clamp down.

Recently there has been this wood tool called the shaper origin. It’s a hand held cnc. I like the concept and was wondering if I cut templates from wood to be able to trace out for plasma cutting would be a good alternative?

the plus I see is that the shaper will slide right in to my little festool collection

No need for a dedicated floor space (big plus since I don’t have a garage to work out of)

but I think running cuts twice will get old. Plus it’s all manual so can’t walk away and it does the job for you.

what are your guys thoughts and experiences with cutting plasma with wood templates?

 

Being Serious A wood shop and welding are not a good mix.

Unless you have a very expensive collection and exhaust system the wood dust gets every where .

If your talking like a system where your wood pattern is remote ok but 50,000 degrees and wood don`t mix.

 

You sound like you would be a good candidate for this:

http://arcdroidcnc.com/

 

looks interesting didn’t know one exist. But it looks limited to how big a size you would be able to cut and would not help me in the wood department. The shaper origin can handle any size you need since it’s hand held and you just need to have enough tape to extend the area.

the template would be 1/4 thick and the plasma drag tip would glide against it. I read that it’s works fine.

As far as saw dust. I got that part covered. I got a dust collector and the hepa shop vac. Need to use common sense there for sure. Just like mig welding has splatter.

 

Came across this on one of the Instagram pages I follow. Seems like a great idea for the outer slider tube to make it less slippery.

 

I thought about this too for a bit and then I thought about my calf being shredded by it as well.

 

Yeah true. Would be impossible to paint it properly too

 

I tried grip tape. Tore up my legs and pants big time. Maybe on the part you don’t slide on it would work but under the door sucks

 

haven't slipped on my sliders yet while they're sitting in my living room lol

 

I would trip over them and take out the TV

 

You’ve gotta get them welded up so I can take you to Potts I know you have so much free time right now.

 

lol I want to gooooo. I literally live so close to Potts too lol. friggen school and work and marching band eating up all my time Weekend of the 9th may be the soonest when I can get to them.

 

Well I’ll let you know each time I go from now on and one of these times you’ll be able to make it.

 

sounds good, I'll try and get my junk together at some point