Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

I'm running a Powertray with my

$659 sp9100 switch pros SP-9100 8-switch panel power system with concealed mounting hardware

sp9100 and bluesea 6-circuit off my secondary battery [passenger side mount], just routed the cables the long way along the firewall. I can snag a copy of my invoice if you'd like.

 

I've seen those powertrays.. and that's my concern. fitting something in there. I think I'm going to have to make something custom.

Do you have a pic of your setup though for reference?

 

Here's a quick one from my install, otherwise I can go snag one from the truck in a min

 

So you're Power for you Switchpro.. are you connecting it to the main starter battery that right there.. or are you extending the Switch pro Positive cable to the passenger side corner?

Thats my issue. I HAVE to mount the second battery on the passenger side.. but then I'll need to either move the Switch Pro (and my other electrical stuff) to that side.. or.. leave it all where its at.. then extend all the wiring to the passenger side.

 

Starter battery runs the truck and winch, aux battery runs the SP and bluesea(s) (one in the bed, too)

I routed all the wiring from the passenger side to the driver side...the main fuse box is there, which I used for triggers for the SP. It's basically the same issue either way. I ground all my stuff to the factory chassis bolt.

 

Ok.. this is all good info and helping for sure. One last question then.. How did you extend your SP power lead?

 

Rough layout real quick..



This is what I'd like to set up.. I'll have some expansion available with the 6x blue sea.. (also will have another in the bed for our camper). I just don't know what I need little parts wise. Terminals. Battery and solar controller, misc wiring and connectors, etc. I wanted to pull the trigger on the Off-grid kit.. but want to ask around here first.

 

I ordered an extended(6ft) pos/neg from powertrays along with a bluesea MRBF fuse direct to the positive terminal of the aux battery.

Just a reminder that switch-pro will not be happy/probably won't warranty issues with an SP with a positive lead that goes anywhere but direct to the battery, and is mounted vertically. So if you want their help with issues, you'll have to run a positive lead to the blue-sea and the switch-pro independently.

If you want to get even sillier, you could run a redarc BCDC for the solar panel to charge both the aux and the starter battery. I can send you the wiring diagram I drew up, and go take some pictures of my install (minus bcdc) in a minute.

 

Well I've had my original SP8100 for years. It's been mounted flat the entire time. No issues. I'm not worried about that part. I guess I'm just hung up on the positive extension for the SP. I'll check out powertrays website to see if I can find what you're talking about. I really have how I want it setup figured out.. and placement. I just don't know how to go about extending the positive lead from passengers firewall corner to fuse box.

I plan to get the Redarc kit so that's all taken care of. I know enough to get me in trouble.

Also.. the blue sea and SP will be wired separately. Separate positive leads.. I was just illustrating locations. The Blue Sea and SP will be on a custom tray that sits behind the fuse box. Pretty much how I have it now.. but cleaner.. and need to figure out how to extend the SP lead. I'll have to take pictures of my setup when I get home.

 

Put a 100AH Lithium battery in a Leitner Designs Gear Pod. Have a Renogy 50A charger/MPPT controller connected to alternator and a port for solar. Fridge and accessories plug into the Blue Sea panel on the side

 

You really should ground your winch directly to the battery. The winch power draw can/will be too much for the chassis ground strap.

 

Agreed, yes. The winch pos and neg should go to the battery. You can also look at a winch switch that has a solenoid in it if you want to be able to make the winch line interruptable.

https://www.warn.com/power-interrupt-kit-62132

 

Thanks guys. I'll make that change to my shitty diagram. Lol

I think I've got it laid all out. Huge thanks to @BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT for taking the time to PM me and school me on everything.

I'll lay out a nicer diagram now that I have it all sorted. Gonna start ordering parts.

 

I used a switch from Blue Sea on my winch power line. Like this -

$36 Blue Sea Systems 9003E e-Series Single Circuit On/Off Compact Battery Switch, 32V DC, 325A, Red

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...keywords=blue+sea+9003e&qid=1632236268&sr=8-2

I like having the winch non-powered while normal driving, just in case of an accident or whatnot. I like to limit the chance of the +12 line shorting out.

 

Hmmm I do like that idea. But space is limited.. I'd have to see where I could fit that switch in after the fact.

 

I mounted mine on the battery cage.



Post #260 on page 13 of my build thread has more details, if you want to see.

 

Yeah that's the problem.. I don't have any room right there. I have supercharger coolant hoses passing through, plus some other stuff. Maybe on the top.. I can probably make a mount to adapt to the Off-grid kits battery tie down.

 

Picture of my CTEK D250SE and SOK 100ah Lithium battery installed on my rear 40% seat delete. 8 awg wire for the positive and I think 10 awg for ground. Battery monitor shunt under the CTEK, and Anderson connector (14awg) up near window is for solar input. Fridge mounts directly in front of this. I have 4 anderson powerpole connectors mounted to battery + and shunt -.

 

that looks fancy! I'd be interested eventually talking to you about a dual battery.

 

If I could jump in here.....I am about to run a wire to my bed to power lights and panel with a couple 12V and usb outlets. Someday I may add a compressor and a fridge(although I assume that would need its own circuit) Should the ground go back to the battery or can it be grounded in the back?

Great set up by the way. I hope to have solar and a house battery some day as well.