Tacoma battery upgrade to Lithium?

99% sure that Renology will work w the off grid setup.
The Redarc would charge the lithium battery.

Edit; I happen to have that battery on hand and it does, in fact, fit on the passenger side w room to spare. Note I just test fit it and I do NOT have a battery tray, but approximated where the tray would be.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evghqj3SWPE

 

Yes. It should charge with anything from 13-15 volts. Theoretically.

 

The truck doesn't do shit. It's got a BMS.

LIfepo4 batteries don't explode.

 

@not_nick has been running the same battery longer than I have but am pleased with the performance and weight reduction.

 

You would need to verify the output voltage/current controlled by the ECU is in acceptable range of the battery specifications.

 

I have a lot of contact with many of the big name tool companies at work and “under the hood“ with their battery tech. I would not put a Lith Ion battery on my truck. Not at least you start seeing oems putting them in new cars.

For a dash cam, I’d look at a DeWalt battery adapter and wire it in so it is on a charge circuit when the truck is on and powering the cam when off. I’m not great with electronics, this may need a manual switch.

 

If you have your spare relocated to the rear bumper is there an opportunity to use the under the bed spare location to mount the lithium if higher temperatures from the engine bay is a concern?

 

So then maybe it's best to go with a standard lead-acid or AGM deep-cycle battery

Well, that's enough to change my mind about putting a lithium battery in the engine bay. Thanks for sharing!

 

Unfortunately, I live in an apartment where there is no power outlets near where I can park my truck. Otherwise, if I had a garage of my own, then I'd just plug in the truck daily.

 

With the information you all have provided, I think I'm going to just look into a group 31 size AGM battery as my main battery. Hopefully that gives me enough capacity between driving the truck and charging the battery. The rest of the electronics I'll just go back to my original plan of using a Yeti 1500X which I can easily remove and keep charged when I'm not going out on a camping trip

 

I think a plug and play AGM or lead-acid starting battery is still the way. The capacity, discharge depth, and cycles of a LiFePO4 is great but the added variables (low temp charging, correctly regulated charge voltage) make it more complex and costly. I use a Renogy DC-DC charge converter in front of a 170Ah BigBattery to keep things going multiple days in the boonies.

 

My factory battery died (bad cell) in less than two years and 16k. Dropped a Die Hard Platinum regular lead-acid because of the 4 year free replacement warranty. Out here in AZ, you're lucky to get more than 2 years. Shouldn't have to pay for a battery again.

 

Antigravity is the way to go here, they even make standard group sizes that mount up to factory location. I don't want to leave any official review till i get a first winter and see how it does starts in negative temps and cold start after cold start and shit like that but it's been good so far. Great even.
also in response to a few things i've seen mentioned: Many manufacturers are offering batteries like this as options and in rarer cases standard. Mostly luxury/performance brands but they're slowly making the rounds. Porsche is the biggest and starting to use them as standard on many of their vehicles and have as various options for a decade or so.
Li-PO batteries (the ones that are susceptible to spontaneous fire) are becoming decreasingly common and should be avoided for an application like this. LiFePO4 batteries however (most of the ones you'll find in applicable sizes) are much more stable and will work fine for this. Be sure to do your research to make sure the battery you're buying also has a capable BMS (battery management system) in it and that should even further mitigate those risks and aid stable charging, prolonged battery life and performance, and stable outputs. That adds to the price but is not a big addition to the price anything lithium will cost at minimum
Also the antigravity batteries have a 5 yr limited warranty, last i checked, that is quite fair. And should go an easy 10 yrs with care, regular driving, and without too much exposure to extreme climate. At that rate it's equivalent to spending 120-40 ish on a 1yr battery every year on its own. The benefits of getting the weight off the fender/driver side, reduced weight in general, and good starting and power supply of a lifepo battery make it well worth the cost up front if you have it, in my opinion.
Edit just read first post: anecdotal but mine has been charging fine for months and i haven't noticed any negative effects yet

 

I run LiFePo batteries in my motorcycles, i think the Lead acid or AGM batteries may offer more longevity in the truck given the under hood temps.
if your battery is draining from a dashcam, you need to replace your battery. 3-4 years is really the service life for Lead acid.
Whichever direction you go regarding battery chemistry will make your situation much better, dashcam wise.

 

Could kill two birds with one stone and mount a big 100-150 Ah lifepo in the cab behind back seat or something and run distribution blocks in the factory battery location. No offgases like lead batteries so it's safe to mount in the cab, better weight distribution, and it'll stay in stable temps for more of it's life in the cab. That's been my plan and i have supplies to do it but i've been lazy and the weight savings is a big part of the mod for me and the cabling necessary would cut that in half so i've been hesitant cause of that too
https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/80116

 

I run lithium on my trailer and love it. Amazing tech for what it is.

Honestly I just don't see the advantage to install on the truck, as I don't deep cycle that battery. I could spend that money elsewhere.

 

Maybe in southwest under hood temps are a bigger concern but they're not as crazy as you'd think. Within a few inches of the headers can get to 500+ degree range but everywhere else is probably more around 200 or less. Comparable to coolant/intake temps. It really cant get much hotter than coolant temps logically speaking and if it did you'd blow your engine or cook lotsa stuff before the battery esplodes; there's quite a lot of stuff near the headers that could melt easy but does fine for hundreds of thousands of miles. If it really is such an issue mods for better heat management are generally kinda easy

 

Just get one of the cascadia4x4 hood mounted solar panels. With a little bit of Sun, it’s got no issues running my fridge indefinitely.

 

I run my ham radio and always on ports from a behind the rear seat second battery.
Chapter Six of my build thread has the writeup.