Most suitable bump stops for this kind of terrain

The new front sumos are very nice and make for a pleasant ride at stock or leveled height. Lifted folks prob can chime in on their experience.

 

Iv been thinking about this a lot. I have mild lift (3/4 on 6112) and OME leaf out back. The super bumps are better then stock that is for sure. But even just doing forest roads and the like I still bottom out on the rear. I just think there should be more room between the bump and the shelf it contacts in this set up.. what brands of hydro/air bumps have you been happy with? I don’t beat on the truck but I carry camping/ hunting gear and drive a lot of forest roads.

this is how they sit. I have only a diamond back cover and a two person tepui tent that weighs 104#. I’m not trying to thread jack but I thought this was relevant.

 

This video was informative and basically confirmed many things I thought about aftermarket bump stops. I'll stick with tuning my shocks and springs. I don't want a piece of rubber being my suspension except in emergency situations.

3rd Gen Tacoma: Should You install Timbren Active Offroad Bump stops?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSg5QYdum20

 

any one that comes as a bolt on "kit" should work. just pop off the 6 stock bump pad rivets on the frame and bolt up the "kit". fox, locked and icon have kits for 600-700 bucks. Out of all the things i have added suspension wise this was #1 most helpful. bottoming out and buckin up the rear end is quite unsettling / dangerous. anyone who tells you that they make ridding on the road uncomfortable and "loud" is talking out of their a**. There is no uncomfortable cluck feeling /sound on the street with my icon bumps. I cant even tell when i tap them in sharp turns or over small speed bumps. Only makes the read end much more controlled and safe. also after time they can always be rebuilt with new oil and seals or even revalved to make them stiffer / softer . this can't be said for rubber/poly bumps which just turn into a pathetic chucks of abused pulp over the years. most overlooked suspension mod IMO. Anyone who says they are a waste are from ppl who are clueless .

my icons:

 

Even if you are "riding" on the bumps stops (like in the situation with an over loaded trailer or bed full of bricks) the hydro bumps will not be as unconformable or stiff like he is saying. the reason is again, it is a secondary shock that is velocity sensitive, so it will not be as stiff if you are not impacting things fast and hard. it gets stiffer the harder or faster it is hit (just like a shock) . this results in the ultimate in processive control and dampening. I have hauled 500 lbs+ in the bed and rode on the bumps. no issues, nice and controlled ride , nothing was too stiff or jarring.

there is a theme here. people have 0 or limited experience in actually running hydro bumps and are making assumptions about a harsh ride based off their Band-Aid fix shitty rubber or poly bumps. that is a cheap / hack solution to bottom out control and I expect all the negative issues that come along with them, not hydro bumps. ask actual ppl who run them or ride in a truck with them.

 

He's referring to rubber bump stops and so am I.

In any case, although I think hydraulic dump stops are in a whole different category, they still are based on the same fundamental concepts: springs and dampers.

I've never seriously shopped for hydraulic bump stops, but I think I would consider internal or external bypass shocks first to see if I can keep the truck off the bump stops.

 

Even with a bypass shock the "bump zone" they come with will not proved the same bottom out control. the "bump zone" in a bypass shock is simply just the primary valving on the piston (nothing is being "bypassed"...go figure). I'm just tell you what i have learned from setting suspensions up over the years and playing around with various setups. Just trying to help. many think hydro bumps are excessive unneeded luxury . not true , they can be a very effect part of any suspension setup with or with out bypass shocks / aftermarket spring or what have you.

 

The OP says he drives on some "sandy trails" and the conversation delves into hydraulic bump stops. I love tacomaworld. OP, be careful.

 

There is your issue. Using the bump allows you to use all of your suspension travel. If you get shocks that are so stiff you never hit your bumps you are missing some serious up travel.

 

???

EDIT: allow me to clarify my confusion... as I understand it, hydraulic bump stops are a very stiff shock and spring, so what you said makes no sense to me.

 

That makes sense. I see them on race trucks all the time. I've never seen them on dirt bikes. That might be because they have linkages to vary the leverage on the coil and spring thus making both the effective spring rate and damping progressive. I'm talking off the top of head. I didn't think I'd be talking about hydraulic bump stops tonight.

 

I think KTM had a bypass shock suspension instead of one with a linkage, but they discontinued it.

 

I didn't read "secondary shock that is velocity sensitive" correctly the first time. What do you mean by that? If "velocity sensitive" means that the resistive force the shock produces is proportional to the velocity, then all shocks are "velocity sensitive". A spring's resistive force is proportional to the displacement and a damper's resistive force is proportional to the velocity.

I googled "velocity sensitive" and found some Radflo sales material that used it.

https://www.radflo.com/p-28-hydraulic-bump-stops.html

I'm curious what "self-adjusting, velocity-sensitive deflective disc" means. It sounds like marketing speak, but maybe there is something I'm missing.

Semi-related: I also read that the Jeep Gladiator Mojave will come with hydraulic bump stops.

https://www.autoweek.com/drives/a32...r-mojave-on-the-desert-trails-that-shaped-it/

 

I'd get bigger tires before I got bigger bump stops. But I only do spirited off roading.

 

After thinking more about bump stops last night, I've come to the conclusion that the fact that your bump stop is contacting your LCA so far away from the suspension travel limit point is not a good thing. I wouldn't want a piece of rubber messing with my suspension functioning except in the emergency situation where it metal is about to contact metal. If I was having a lot of contact with my stock bump stops, I would first consider tuning/upgrading my coil overs. A bigger rubber bump stop seems like a band-aid for the real problem.

 

I'm not following you. How does a bigger tire solve the same problem that a bump stop does? A tire does not prevent metal on metal contact between your suspension components at full compression.

 

I had considered that the stops would limit up travel at some point. Reading the description, kinda puts that at ease though. It takes 1400# to compress it to 50%. Without measuring it, the spring is about 4” tall, so 700# per inch. Pretty close to being on par with most coil springs, besides my IM springs are 827# rate at 15” in height.
Really I don’t know, I’ll have to cycle the front to see how far it’ll compress to know for sure. I’ll do that soon, I need to rotate my tires. I’ll see what I can do then.

 

827 lb/in? Whoa! I've never heard of anything that stiff on a taco. The stock 700 lb/in spring is the stiffest I've found specs on. What is IM an abbreviation for?

So you've got something like 1500 lb/in after 2-3" of uptravel? That seems like it should be very harsh.

I have 600 lb/in King springs, King 2.5" remote reservoir shocks, and stock bumps.

 

Yea, though at 2.5” lift it’s not too bad. IM is short for Ironman. When I bought the kit last year they only had the one 827# set of springs available. They now have a 720# set of springs. Ironman is an Australian company and the set I have use the foam cells rather than nitrogen. I like the kit but it is a little harsh. I was looking into changing the springs out with the newer set or getting 600 or 650# king springs to put on since I have no weight. There is just me having to figure out if the 3.0 ID King springs will fit on the almost 2.8 shock body and how they will play together.

 

I was estimating the 2-3" of up travel on the distance between your bump stop and the LCA in your video. It's a very crude estimate at best, but it looked like you will digging into the bump stop very early in the suspension up travel.