Brice's NA V6 Build

I like those shackles. Had a fight with the OEM one, on my friend's truck.

Going to bring it out to C&C this weekend???

 

I can't because I have a chemistry class that meets once a week on saturdays at 8, which really sucks because the truck will be the closest it has ever been to road worthy. After this semester though I'll make sure I don't miss them, anymore. I think I have 5 weeks left.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tomatic-shifter-bushings-now-for-sale.605409/ Gonna post this here as well in case anyone following is interested.

 

Im new to all of this. Can anyone explain what to do with the stock vacuum lines after installing a turbo

 

If they are important, route them in with the boost/vacuum lines, if it is something that doesn't need to see boost i.e brake booster make sure you put a check valve in line so it only sees vacuum

 

Can you or someone post a diagram of how they routed these hoses. Ive been using some pics of the internet for reference but cant make out quite how they routed theirs

 

G is vented to atmosphere on mine
E is also venting to atmosphere along with the PCV line from the valve cover (not the best but I didn't wanna deal with plumbing it in before the turbo).
D needs to see boost as it adjusts the FPR. Having it see boost will raise fuel pressure 1psi for every 1psi of boost
C and A can be capped or used to reference boost. I used A to reference boost, then capped A and switched to C for aesthetic reasons. Doesn't matter much, just make sure the capped one doesn't leak. Both ports see vacuum.
As far as B goes, I never ran a BOV so I have no clue as to the optimal spot to plumb it.

If you really want you can plumb E and C to the intake before the turbo inlet, this will create a slight vacuum under boost that'll help seal the crankcase but isn't strictly needed.

 

The stock brake booster also has a check valve built in, you can test it by starting the truck (don't hit the brake pedal) then letting it sit for a bit. If after it sits the pedal is easy to push the first time then its working, if it's firm its no longer working (or doesn't have one) and you'll have to add one inline.

 

Awesome. Saved my day. Thanks

 

You made it nice and easy by labeling everything.

 

Are you positive the FPR is a rising rate? Ive run mine both ways and never saw a difference in my afr under 5psi open loop. I haven't actually hooked a pressure guage up to verify though.

 

That sounds right. It just keeps it at a 1:1 ratio so it doesn't get any leaner.

Here's Gadgets article.
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Fuel.htm#Free FMU:

 

So how do i clock a turbo with the oil feed and return lines right next to eachother?

 

Loosen the bolts on the turbine housing. Rotate.

 

How exactly do you mean? Coolant should go in and out from right to left (or vice versa) and oil should come in from the top and drain out the bottom. As far as clocking it goes you want as close to vertical as possible for the oil to drain properly.

 

Also what kit are you running? If you've posted pics I'd like to see it, if not feel free to post some here. Will give us a better idea.

 

1kz-te turbo with a cx racing manifold set. I wanted something different than the same ol t3 t4. But it has been a challenge

 

I see, that turbo is awfully small it seems. The exhaust side may work ok, but the compressor may run out of flow or become very inefficient with the 5vz... I cant find the specs on it but I hope it works out!

 

that turbo is gona be too small in the end and not perfom how you want. i would just go with a better turbo right from the start.