Dobinsons 2016-2023 Taco Suspension Options

Swapped out basic Dobinsons rear shocks for the MRAs.

I'm just going to say it bluntly for anyone considering: if you're replacing the the leaf springs with even the lowest weight Dobinsons leafs and don't regularly have a load in the bed, skip the basic rear shocks and just save up for the MRA's. The entry level Dobinsons rear shocks with 110R leaf springs really made me dislike the ride A LOT. The MRA's are a huge step up in comfort for just leaving them at the lowest/comfort settings.

My only complaints:

- vehicle specific installation instructions would be incredible. I know that would be a ridiculous pain the in the ass logistically and don't actually expect Dobinsons to provide it since that's asking a lot, but it would be nice. I also fully understand shock and strut replacements are a super basic vehicle modification, but, for example, I didn't fully realize the rebound adjustment was on the shock's bottom mount (I thought it was the "knob" [not a knob] on the bottom of the reservoir) so had one side facing towards the axle mount that I had to redo. Not a big deal but I guess I just didn't understand the verbiage used in the instruction sheet in regards to that adjustment. Maybe I'm just a dummy, which would be embarrassing since suspension modification is what I've done the most on all of my vehicles...

- that brings me to the universal reservoir mount. Dear lord, trying to tap a hole horizontally while crouched under a wheel well with gravity working against you is a ridiculous pain in the ass. I could never get enough "oomph" behind it to actually get the tap to bite. After two hours and three trips to the hardware store, I just said "fuck it" and did thru holes with bolts, lock washers, and nuts on the backside of the frame. Guess that's one advantage to a c-channel frame. Wouldn't have been possible with a boxed frame. But would be nice for Dobinsons to supply an extra M8-1.25 nut and lock washer in the kit to allow for that.

- finally: now I guess I need to buy front MRA's since the rears have made the stiffness in the front stand out so much!

Really though: huge upgrade in daily driving comfort on the MRA's. No longer feels like I'm riding in a covered wagon on some of the shitty torn up roads around here and for the price, hard to beat for sure.

I only took a photo of one side because I need to redo the mount on the other side as I put it in a really dumb spot but was too worn out to redo it by the end of the day.



Since the shocks didn't change the ride height as I've already installed the 110Rs and 314 fronts, I'll just post a previous photo for posterity:

 

Thanks for the feedback. You inspired me to write up instructions today. A lot of people get through it just fine, but there are always some with questions. I tried to think of every possible question I've had on them so far and include them in this.

https://exitoffroad.com/wp-content/...-Tacoma-Rear-MRA-Shock-Installation-Guide.pdf

It's linked on my Instructions page of my site, here: https://exitoffroad.com/instructions/

 

Okay, that is what I thought but I wanted to be sure. Got some life things to take care of then I will be ordering my lift. Thanks!

 

Haha, well glad I could be the inspiration!

But yeah, really it wasn't difficult from a technical perspective, just a "crap I didn't think about/realize that" perspective.

I apparently didn't even realize all this time that the shock set ups were asymmetric from one side to the other. Not really something you think much about until you have to mount a reservoir and realize you can't do it exactly the same way on either side since the frame is slightly different. I also noticed today that it seems like the universal mounts assume the vehicle is symmetric so has mirrored mounts, so that also kind of threw me off without me realizing it.

I was skeptical going into it how much of a difference there would be, but the MRAs really are a step up from the standard shocks. Not looking forward to having to disassemble and reassemble the front struts when the time comes for me to upgrade those as well since I've already got the C59-314 springs, but I feel like with the improvement on the rears, I've gotta take the plunge on the fronts eventually!

 

@brtnstrns what size hole did you end up drilling? Or what drill bit did you use?

 

For the thru-hole it was a 5/16 drill bit - maybe titanium? Meant for drilling metal.

 

Just curious since you said you had trouble. I’ve had my share of projects go sideways. You end up using a step bit since you tapped it?

 

Oh no...

Drilling was no problem at all. Just trying to run the tap for the M8-1.25 bolt (which I think is like a 17/64 drill bit) is what I couldn't get to work. The tap would never actually bite since I guess I couldn't put enough force behind it while also keeping it straight since I was coming at it horizontally and contorted under the wheel well.

No step bits, just bored it out with the drill bit.

I've tapped plenty of holes with no issues in the past. It's just most of the time I've come at them from above with the assistance of gravity. Coming at it sideways kind of gives you no leverage without wobbling around a bunch. At least for me...

 

So i flipped through this whole thread and I am still finding myself indecisive about rear suspension upgrades. Here's my situation. TRD OR DCSB Currently on stock springs with Bilstein 5100s. Lets call it a 2" lift. The rear has some sort of mystery AAL (I count 3 leafs in addition to the OR pack and TSB overload) and rides a little higher, which is perfect, but its old and the leaf pack is very flat and my air bags are doing most of the work when loaded up. I don't like the idea of all that point load relying so much on the bags. Ideally I'd like to have a leaf pack that does most or at least half the work, then use air bags to pick up the rest. I plan to haul a FWC (1600lbs loaded!) and right now it works ok, it just leaves something to be desired. My worry is that a leaf pack designed to handle all of that load by itself will mean an unbearable ride unloaded. Running bags will keep my setup dynamic. The goal is to maintain a similar appearance while beefing up the rear end without adding too much unloaded lift/ruining the unloaded ride. Keep in mind I do have a forward rake at the moment, so I can work with a little rake and i'm not asking for a constantly level ride, just not a 6" lift in the rear. I know, probably asking for the impossible with such a massive weight delta between loaded and unloaded but i feel like it is do-able?

My guess is to go with the 111 spring pack, with the ride rite bags I own, and not run the TSB overload (not sure if that is obvious but I don't see many people mention that). Other option was just suck it up and try the 112s with bags and I can remove a leaf if i need to? Still, i feel like i'd want the lighter spring rate that the 111s provide. Maybe i missed someone post a setup like what i'm asking for, but there are a LOT of threads to sift through. Put it this way, I will post pictures of the previous FWC owner's truck later tonight. His truck is what I don't want, it looks goofy and stiff with the massive rake unloaded. I believe he is running Dobinsons leafs, but I see more leafs back there and I don't know what they are or if they should be there. @Crikeymike you can probably tell me whats going on when you see it.

NOTE: Yes I have a 2nd gen, but my FWC came off a 3rd gen. Either way I will be posting a pic of that previous owner's truck because I don't understand whats going on and that will help me narrow down my suspension decision.

 

like I said in the last post, previous owner said his truck had dobinsons leafs but not sure which ones. I do have one picture I didn’t post that says “0294” in yellow print and I’m pretty certain they’re Dobinsons. It’s very (too) tall unloaded. Of course looks decent loaded. Again, i'm probably being too picky but if its between the 111 and 112s i'm not sure what is best for me, someone who runs a truck camper half the time.

 

It looks like the 112's for me (and yeah, about 3" of lift or so without any added weight), and with the weight of the camper, that's what he should have been sold. It's what you should run too, but you're right, you can't have it both ways. A stronger/thicker spring to support the added weight properly will of course sit up higher when that weight isn't on it. When you're loaded down is truly when you need the support, and the right amount of it.

Sure, you can run the 111's and airbags still, but the airbags will still be doing a lot of the work, and that's a very heavy payload. I'd recommend the 112's, run them how they come and see how it is, then take out a leaf (making them 111's) if you can't stand the way it sits. Leaf springs are progressive by nature, and I've had many people tell me the ride "was fine" with the 112's and unloaded, but it won't ride as well as it's supposed to without the correct amount of constant weight added to them.

The guy that ran those springs with that camper would be the right guy to talk to here, and hear any issues or positives he took away from that setup.

 

That clears things up, thanks! I know the right answer is the 112s. I was just having a hard time accepting that. And it's good to know that I can mix and match the setup a little bit too. I'll be sure to post some pictures in the 2nd gen thread as well, since i have a 2nd gen as mentioned before. But either way the 111 vs 112 debate sort of applies to both gens equally interchangeably

 

I'm torn between the 111s and 112s. With my rear bumper coming, I'll be at around 700lbs net added weight in the rear, including my RTT, rack, sliders and all the stuff going on my bumper. Seems to be in the gap between 111s and 112s.

 

FWIW, I had the 111 with airbags, but downsized to 110 with airbags because the unloaded ride was stiff. Although, I do have hammer hangers, MRA and custom bumpstops. I found the airbags performed as designed with the weight of the Northstar MC600. Airbags are plumbed separate. I may add the 111 leaf back when I add my rear bumper, or my leafs are shot. Just my experience. My garage door is low, and the truck is empty most all the time, so no daily need for a lift or extra weight capacity. I also have the Air Lift remote compressor for the bags, so I can inflate/adjust at will. GL!

 

The flex shot nobody asked for

 

Got any more of them flex shots? Maybe..... A front?

 

Any pics of the quick ride 2inch f/r?

 

It would look just like this, 2" front and rear

 

Has anyone removed a leaf from a 111 leaf pack (to make it comparable to a 110)? I read that it was the fourth leaf that was supposed to be removed but the clamps/cradles are riveted (it looks like) to the fourth leaf from the top. So maybe its the third leaf that is supposed to be removed.. Has anyone done this?

 

Edit: the design must have changed. 4th one down - the one just above the large overload. You should be left over with 3 main leafs and two overloads.

Picture of my older leaf pack in the spoiler below:

Spoiler

Should look like this when complete: