Wyoming B.S. Thread

Cool. Some great spots there, obviously. I was just trying to provide some more info on Canada (having just fine through it) since Monte asked and Ryan suggested quarantine might be needed.

Propane only. Plus, most campgrounds in the area are closed (still not cleaned up from the Creek fire last year). SoCal NFS are so closed, and the rest of the forests in the state only opened a week ago.

 

Yeah, I know. I just wanted to convey what I knew. He had mentioned wanting to check out the Oregon coast.

So I'm guessing either stage 1 or possibly stage 2. Both allow for propane but still restrict wood fires.

 

No go for Canada at the moment. Need to be back home in a week unfortunately. Hence the quick tour trying to see a little bit of everything up here.

Made some touristy stops yesterday, drove on the beach this morning. Heading back to the mountains now.

 

as in the trip will be over? or just a bit of a break?

 

No, just have a couple back to back things I need to be home for. Will head someplace warmer afterwards. Probably continue through at least November.

 

Wow, you lucked out on the weather. It is not like that very much.

 

thats great to hear!

 

You tell work to peace out or just doing remote stuff along the way?

 

Pretty much peaced out. But kept a couple clients that I work on remotely about a day a week.

 

Hrmmm… recommendations?



I will of course read a bit more when I get home. I remember Brett @Squeaky Penguin (at least) went through this.

I think I’d prefer to not put a used housing in, because who knows how long until it cracks as well.

Has anyone been successful welding it up?

Is there a better/stronger rear housing I should use? (though, it’s be nice to keep the elocker)

 

Brett welded his up but he ended up replacing the perches I believe.

Lots of options..well..some if you want a whole new housing but it gets real expensive quick. Mostly because if you swap housings it's generally a good idea to upgrade the diff too. So it spirals out if control. Big Dan knows this I'm sure having swapped in a LC diff and axle, though I don't remember if he did a custom housing or the stock one.

Either way. The simple bandaid is to grind it a bit and fill with weld. But it'll just be a bandaid given the abuse it sees on the regular basis.

The other option is a diamond axle housing which your elocker will swap into. Trail gear makes a housing too. Just adds up with welding all the other things to it but would be the most affordable option for a replacement.

Edit: I think Ryan cut off his perches and plated over it and then put on new perches and that's worked okay?

 

And a blower and long travel too

 

I got some 3" pipe and cut it in half, then welded new perches on top and corrected my driveline angle while I was at it. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-turbo-4x4-build.319830/page-62#post-23812428

I think so far mine has been the only fix that has held up. Both @Squeaky Penguin and @cynicalrider ground and welded there's but the leaks came back. Something to keep in mind is that when you are welding the crack there's a good chance that oil is being pulled into the weld contaminating it. I left about a half inch on my bottom plates unwelded to see if the original cracks still leak and nothing has shown itself yet.

 

So I ground my down and welded it up and it leaked the next trip.

Replaced with a junkyard axle and ground/fixed the cold factory welds and its been fine since.

Otherwise do what Ryan did. Or try a TG, but I'm not sure the compatibility with the axle shafts. Or pony up for a diamond.

 

Awesome, thanks.

Mmmm hmmm. Sounds like a good way to be in the shop more and on the trail less.

Exactly.

I mean, I should probably SAS it as well. Maybe bob the bed for departure angles. Full cage? Sure, why not.

Awesome, this is fantastic, thanks! I'll probably give this a go, and also get a replacement housing, just to get things "on the up and up."

See Ben @m3bassman - I am going to at least consider your advice about the LC axle, hahaha!

Actually - question: With an LC axle, can I re-use my existing gears or do I need "different" 4.88s? Elocker? Sounds like with the Diamond, I can resuse all of that if I'm understanding correctly.

Hmm, OK. Wonder if it's even worth trying the grind-weld-pray on the housing itself.

Question: Can I drive it as-is for a while? How serious is this? Is the entire housing going to break off? (Really I'm asking if I'm SOL on trips till this is fixed/resolved.)

 

LC has a much much bigger diff. 9.5" ring gear. So no, you'd need new gears and if you can find one that has an elocker in it already then you'll need an arb too.

Diamond axle you can get whatever you want. So yeah you can use the same axles and diff. Though while you're there I'd upgrade the axle shafts to the chromoly ones.

LC is a fully float axle too which is a big upgrade as well.

I'd imagine it will be fine for a while but it is an obvious sign the perch is getting ripped off the axle so...at some point you won't want to drive on it.

 

As much as you travel why not spend a little extra coin and get the diamond and be done with it. May be inconvenient short term but long term save the hassle of future failure. Granted I say that not knowing all that is required to make it happen but more on the side of if it aides what you already do why not?

 

Clean it up and find how serious the cracks are. I had more than one. Some were 2" long on the axle tube. If the tube fails it isn't going to be good. I personally would get it taken care of asap. If nothing else get another housing to temporarily get you by until you can beef one of them up.

 

Yeah. Makes sense, thanks.

Oh, yeah, I don't have a problem spending money on this, and I've already been over to the Diamond site and will be calling tomorrow to find out pricing, timeline, etc.

I do like the idea of an LC housing (which I suppose would be even more expensive due to gears), since I've heard people rave about those, and the full float, etc. (though, I have to admit, I haven't really paid all that much attention to it up until now)

So, more questions:

1. What's the going opinion on Diamond vs LC?
2. What year LC?
3. Isn't the LC housing going to have the same issue as the Taco housing (from a perch weld perspective)?
4. Has someone integrated an e-locked LC onto a Taco that folks can point me to? (I'm going to search now, haven't yet)
5. Maybe even a Diamond LC? Costly, but even better than just an LC?

Yeah, probably a good idea. I'm definitely going to do it ASAP, I'm just wondering if I can keep driving it really. Getting a new housing ready to go seems like it's not a "super quick" thing, since I need to acquire it, weld on new shock mounts, move over all my stuff, etc.

 

Don't, things are tons more expensive with the e-locker housing and there's absolutely no reason to use one when an ARB is stronger. The e-locker axle shaft on the passenger side is known to bend at the splines on the Land Cruiser axles because of the extra long spline section for the locker gear to slide on. Just get a regular full float LC rear axle and put a locker in it. You'll get disc brakes a cable actuated drum e-brake full float and a bigger rear differential with all the available gear options that a taco has.