Got my parts donor truck today

Those of you who have followed the saga of my battle to get my 04 Taco restored know that it has taken a lot of energy, but I came up with a plan. The left front coil spring tower is damaged, especially where the upper control arm bolts on. I am working with a very good welder who does these repairs. He assures me that if i get another truck identical to mine as a parts donor, he can cut and insert the good tower from another truck. This donor has damage along the back of the drivers door, but the front wheel assembly looks fine. Its sole purpose in life now is that of a parts donor. The truck arrived today. I am happy and excited. Maybe I did spend more then some people would, but the cost of used trucks has skyrocketed here lately. Lots of other good parts too. A running engine, and auto trans. After I get my old taco where it drives, I will worry about a fender and a bumper. I am thinking I may post pictures as I go along. This may be a 6 month- a year project as finances allow. Sorry I can't upload a pic of the donor

 

Whats your location? There might be some locals that can help. Doesn't look like you are near me or I'd pitch in

 

Thanks man. I appreciate the offer. I am in Troy, Al. I wish it were closer too. Here's a shot of the donor truck. 2.4 engine. It runs. It was sold on coparts auction. Parts were striped off of it, then I bought it. There are lots of other good parts I can use. Fender and bumper can be found. I am looking at carparts.com. I am working with a welder who will transplant the coil spring bucket for me. This should be a fun project! (I don't know why I couldn't upload this pic last night, maybe it only lets you do one at a time)

 

I started removing things from the LF wheel so I can get at the coil spring bucket for transplant. All stabilizer, and anti-sway arms will be moved over. The brake caliper and sensor were removed. I am trying to remove the upper control arm and ball joint, but I haven't got all off yet. I'll keep you posted.
The donor truck came from Virginia. Must have been through some salted snow because there is rust, but not too bad. I will attempt to clean that some more when there is no rain, and the sun is not really hot

 

I'd hose it all with penetrating lube and let it sit. Then cross your fingers those bolts don't break.

That sliding window is nice upgrade if you don't have one. That was one of the first things I changed on my truck. My dog likes the bed more then the cab, now she can stick her head in the cab and say hi.

 

I got it soaking. It is a concern. I bought a impact wrench and ordered 6 sided sockets, I needed that anyway.
I looked at the back window, and wondered how hard it is to change. The rubber is soft and pliable. Opens and shuts well.
The 2 bolts on the upper control arm are a big concern. That piece of plate on the back of the coil spring tower is worth its weight in gold to me. Gotta get it out without a hitch!

 

If the frame is wasted, maybe sawzall a chunk out. It would allow you to be more precise with cutting the plate from it. Clamp it in a vice and go to town.

The back window is very easy to swap over, all you need is a piece of thin rope and maybe a plastic pry tool. I push those windows out from the inside, starting with a corner and slowly working it.

 

I may have to do something like that, but right now I am putting my faith in a welder I have found. He travels about and does this for body shops in my aria. Everyone says he's quite good. He looked at it and told me if i could get another identical truck, he could fix it like it never happened! Money well spent! I am unclear as to weather he will cut out the bucket, then the plate, or get them together. My bucket has a dent in the back from the wreck, if that could be straightened, it could be reused. Its not my ability to cut, but too weld that I question. I want a weld that looks like a stack of dimes, one atop the next, staggered in a row. A strong weld.
I'll add the window to my growing "to do" list. Functionality first, then the comport features!

 

That's good you found a reliable welder. Kinda strange body shops use a specialty welder. I've been in the industry since 04 and never had anyone weld anything for me. We are all required to be certified for welding structural components.

As for the cut, I just meant to cut it like the picture to make it easier to access and disect that bucket. I wanna see the finished product, keep us updated!

 

I got the impression he was the one they called when things are hairy, and need to be done right. Keep in mind these are small shops.
I honestly don't know what is the best way to cut and splice, but I am counting on him knowing. You can't see it from the side view, but the center support connects on the underside in that spot. Its the brace the engine sits on. It is welded in. I looked. So that would need to be cut too. I wish you were closer, I could use a backup welder. This guy has not been returning my calls. I need to strip parts from the donor, so he can get to it. I intend to remove the upper control arm, brake, and the lower arm will swing out of the way. Then get the welder over here. I hope I don't have to remove both engines from both trucks, but I could.
Thanks for your thought provoking comments.

 

Is there an electric/remote mirror on the PS door?

What about the plastic piece above the bumper and the two pieces that go under the headlights?

I would be interested in any of those if you have and won’t be using.

 

I would be worried about him welding in just the suspension mounts personally. I would rather have him sleeve a section of the rail in with the suspension mount points intact since you have it. Either way is really a no-no if you talk to an I-Car certified tech. But I would rather keep factory welds on the suspension mounts and sleeve the frame than weld suspension mounting points in. Plus you keep factory geometry for the mount on the rail intact.

 

Bumper was removed when I got the truck. Too bad. I need one. I am thinking after market.
PS mirror is manual.

 

I had thought about something like this. The vertical plate on the right would need to be straightened. This shows the damage to the one I wish to repair. Cutting on the red line, not the green.Either way, it seems dicey. After reading your post, I wondered did the welder overlook the cross member like you did. Its not viable from the side and easily overlooked. If I have to pull both engines it will be a larger project. I may need a roll around hoist, since moving without a front wheel would be difficult. Plus I am working on grass, not a concrete floor. Maybe I can put down some plywood.

 

I can tell you now do not do that cut. IF anything pull the entire piece off at the factory weld to the rail and weld the new one in.

I know about the cross member, you can separate the crossmember from the rail when sectioning out the old rail and weld it to the new one. I would not replace the suspension piece if it was my truck and me and my family drove it. Any weld contamination or weakness and the pocket snaps off and you’re done.

 

Correct, not an ideal repair. I am i-car platinum, not that it means much. But they do make you weld infront of them.

Sleeving the rail would put alot more heat into the rail, have more area for corrosion, and change the crush characteristics.

Welding just that tower on is the least intrusive, and is the most comparable to oem. A proper weld will hold that tower on just fine.

My cut diagram was NOT where I recommended to weld, it was only to make it easier to cut the NEW tower off cleanly.

 

Maybe strip everything you need off the parts truck. Then cut the frame and scrap it. That way you don't have to deal with two 3 wheeled trucks at once

 

I agree with your idea, my only thing is how complex the area is. It has mounts on either side and welds on 2 faces of the rail. Also with damage like that there is a chance the rail itself has some sway or damage in that area.

If we are talking factory corrosion protection I think it is about the same. For crush/deformation of the rail if you sleeve or even but weld it, he is welding on a suspension mount so all safety concerns I would say are already out the window.

May come down to what the welder can do. Either way if he comes and picks me up to hit the bars, I will call Uber and meet him.

 

Great comments guys. This is a real learning experience for me. I'll be the first to tell you, I am way out of my league when it comes to welding on a critical, load bearing suspension. I took a welding course in High school many decades ago. I know enough to seek out the help of a professional for all the reasons you guys mention. I want it to be safe. At one point I considered moving my cab and bed over to the donor chassis, but there is frame damage. Donor does have a good 2.4 engine, 152k miles. I drove it around in the yard, but was "chicken" to take it out on the hiway. Let it be a donor, I'll store the engine for future insurance.
As for corrosion protection, I had planned to clean everything down to the metal, and paint it good. Is there a reason that won't work? Welded spots would need to cool before painting. Can you explain the term "rails" is that the straight part of the frame? I have been warned about changing the crush characteristics before. I hope I never need the frame to collapse.
When you say "sleeve the rail", do you mean add some steel reinforcement? On all four sides, or something less?
Can you give me any advice on how to find a good qualified welder if my man bails on me? He hasn't returned my last 2 phone calls. I sent him a facebook message a few hours ago. People go on vacations, there's a pandemic. Lots of things. Best to wait.
If I can ask you guys just one more question, its a biggy, will the engine need to be removed to cut and remove cross member? I can post pics if it will help.
Thanks for your thoughts. You REALLY got the wheels turning in my brain. Frame surgery is not for the faint of heart.