Long Travel BS Thread

I figured it was a good way to fund my shock package upgrade lol

 

I have ADS coils on front end. Street parked even in winter and maybe 2 washes in the 2 years they've been on and they've held up fairly well. The hose fittings are rusted bad bad and a touch of rust in a couple spots on the threads but still pretty good. Just put fox 2.5s in the back so we'll see how those go. I had a pair of the little aluminum body fox 2.0s in the back for like 3 yrs and they held up really great

 

Related side note: How much pressure do the resi hoses see?
I've thought about switching to stainless fittings but stainless is susceptible to salt embrittlement so if the pressures spike really high on big hits that could be not so good after a few winters and would negate the benefits.
I'll probably switch to titanium hardware next rebuild since it's not crazy expensive. Never looked into titanium fittings but i'm imagining it's big money

 

It wasn’t bad. Had a lot of fun throughout my time but it definitely got old with all of the laws.

 

You could do an only-fans to sell lessons on how to DIY shock tuning.

 

Well boys, it's time. Truck is up for sale. ARB air lockers f&r, All Pro up front, Defined SUA in the rear.



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-rear-turn-key-2006-tacoma-4-door-4x4.738390/

 

I'm in the middle of building my front end and decided to clean up the springs- sure enough my sand blaster had a tough time getting the Fox coating off initially- so I'd say they will hold up well for at least 2-3 years of salt. I'm powder coating them

 

I’ll probably get shredded for asking this as I know it’s mostly either personal preference or a trade secret, but here it goes…

After 2-3 years of my truck riding like ass both on road and off I’m going to do some shock maintenance and also try to fix the stiff ride I have.

My truck is a 2016, has a dirt king 3.5” in front with king coil overs and king 2.5 bypasses, the rear is a giant kit with remote 2.5 kings and king air bumps.

Even with the adjusters all the way soft I’m still not satisfied with the ride. On and off road it ride likes a tank

Does anyone have any good shim setup suggestions I can start with? Oil weights I could probably figure out via google. But of course I’m open here as well.

 

Great opportunity to have the discussion as shocks often times made out to be voodoo. The difficulty is that there are so many variables to consider. You should be able to get good ride quality with a full LT setup though so you’re definitely heading in the right direction.

Can you elaborate some on the setup? What spring rates up front and what PSI are you running in the tires on/off road? What tires are you running? Lastly, when you mention adjusters are you referring to the bypass adjusters are the adjusters on the C/O?

A tune is definitely the starting point but you’ll want to fully evaluate the setup.

 

Cam tab gussets: anyone know if they can be aligned "wrong"? Like if the main bolt slot is narrower than the slot in the frame? Two of the cam tabs seem like they just dont want to go all the way over to a maxed out position.

 

Anyone know if there is any harm in not using c clips in the outers cv? We finally got the CVs apart (transitioning to JDfab 934) but our press cut the clips right in half as expected. In a time crunch gonna call toyota parts tmrw but not confident on this one. If anyone has had similar scenario, do you know the part number? Thanks

 

No problem. Agreed with the questions too. Here’s more info.

Agreed on understanding the setup. Thanks for the reply. Here is some additional info.

Front coils are 700#. I have a steel bumper (tubular all pro), winch, and some skid plates. I don’t have a lot of preload on the coils either.

Tires are 37” procomp a/t sports. On the street I run them around 28-29 PSI and off road maybe 18ish.

Unfortunately I cheaped out on the coil overs and don’t have adjustable ones. So I’m just talking about bypass adjusters.

Also if it matters I found this in my email when I was looking for the spring rate. foe the rear shocks: 15/10 with 150psi.

I’ve never ridden in a long travel truck other than mine so maybe I am holding LT on a higher pedestal than I should be. But I’ve had off road buggies before and while strictly for off road they were great on road. My truck now gets constant complaints how rough it is on road which I can also confirm it’s not great off road either.

 

I believe Harry mentions to absolutely use it in his thread somewhere.

 

If you don’t use it on the outer joint you’ll pull a @WormSquirts and shred the teeth on your axle.

 

Hey, I am looking to get all the parts to rebuild my Icon shocks -- is it worth springing for Vitron seals? Does the brand of shock fluid inside really matter? I am sure if I ask Icon/the company they'll tell me not to run anything but whatever liquid gold each company puts in, but I assume fluid is fluid.

 

Viton seals can handle higher temps which is why they are used primarily on race applications. Not really a performance difference unless you've been melting seals. Viton seals in King Race Series shocks are known to actually leak until they expand from heat to form a good seal.

Yes, the brand of fluid absolutely matters. Primarily for heat capabilities. Very similar to engine oil. There are many different types/formulas but the Wal Mart special doesn't perform as well as Mobil 1.

 

My personal opinion which will vary from others. A) you've got too much spring up front. 700# is common on stock length applications but I have found it to be too much spring for LT setups. I run 600# on my 2.25" with steel bumper & winch. B) You've got an E load tire which is designed for heavy loads/towing and will be harsh for anything less. On your next tire I'd look into a preferably a C load tire or a D if that's all you can find in the size you want.

Not having adjusters on the C/O is fine as you've got a bypass for tuning. Just trying to clarify some details. Do you know what your front valving is? Was it tuned for this kit? A 15 stack on the comp side is actually pretty light for a bypass and 150 psi is correct for Kings.

 

You definitely have to use it. I learned the hard way. However, you can use the clips that you took off of the inner axle to remove the inner CV.

 

I had 15/10 in my bypasses and it rode super stiff I changed it to 15/8 and it’s a lot better now

 

Edit: Lol fuk, they need it off the lift TODAY. How bad is it to use those inner square clips?


Appreciate the feedback lol, my mechanic buddies are sick of it on their lift ha we were close to doing that. Ordered 2 of these https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/__/CV-Joint-Boot-Kit/3897475/0443804050.html