Long Travel BS Thread

What square clips?

 

Those inner clips you mention, they aren't rounded I don't think right? They have square/dimensional edges. Regardless of my explanation skills, the inner ones work fine or am I making a risky decision here?

 

There are two identical c-clips on each oe axle. One on the inner and one that you have to press out on the outer. They are both the same

 

Do they look round to me because they had 25 tons of press lol?

 

Yes haha

 

The funny thing is I've always disassembled the outer CVs very easily with a vice and a hammer and the outer clip is perfectly fine

 

I dont know what we did wrong, but literally, even put the thing between an XJ and F250 and pulled the XJ on 40s 8 ft... Harry @ JD said it was extremely hard for them too normally and they use a laithe in the star or something.
Either way thank you very much for the input, we will use the inner clips

If anyone wants to checkout the build!
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rawler-build-not-sure-why-im-going-lt.732440/

 

Like @desertjunkie760 said, if you are a chatter-nazi you will never get 700lb springs to feel "good" to you on pavement, you could take all the valving out of the shocks and you will still get the impression you feel every imperfection in the road. Offroad, to smooth them out you either have to drop down air pressure lower than 18psi with an accompanying risk of pinch flats or drive really fucking fast.....and unless you are going to places where its safe and open enough to drive fast, that might not even be an option.

Either get 600lb springs or some 500/550 by 18s and start there.

 

Actually, I'm glad you're asking. I recently got my setup operational and I'm feeling the exact same way you are. My front is a Dirt Design's kit, but the coil overs and bypasses are Dirt King Specs. With the compression adjusters all the way out, it will rattle your teeth out on the road or small chop. In the desert its a mixed bag, handles high speed stuff great, but the wash board roads are rough even when aired down. I'd love to see what you come up with for valving adjustments. The rear three link feels close to dialed in, I'd like to go a little softer on the slow speed stuff, which would allow me to throw some more compression resistance at the high speed stuff. Make sure you post up if you break into your shocks.

 

Interesting about the coils. Maybe when I pull these apart I’ll swap out coils as well.

Front valving I have no idea. I just happened to ask about the rears since when I got them they just had a tag that said custom valving so I asked. The front coil overs and the bypasses didn’t have tags so I didn’t think to ask.

They weren’t custom valved for the kits. I cheaped out and got everything from downsouth instead of dirt king/giant.

Maybe my problem is the rear springs then. I got them from giant and off the shelf I maybe had and inch of up travel even with no load. Giant wasn’t a whole lot of help there so I called up deaver and gave them the PN for the springs and they made me an extra leaf that gave me an inch of so of lift. I’m pretty sure without that if I load up for a camping trip it would just be on the bumps.

 

That’s good to know. I’m getting worried it might be my leafs but maybe I could get by with that setup you have.

 

Okay good call. I’ll add springs to this project too.

 

I could be wrong, but I think Downsouth builds the shocks for Dirt King. Definitely not cheaping out. At least my Dirt King Shocks were delivered via Down south.

 

I guess cheaped out is the wrong word. Downsouth was great and their prices beat everyone by a mile. I think you are right about them building them for dirt king. It’s been a while but that sounds familiar.

 

Add springs to the list and send the valving that is in your front shocks once you crack into them. Curious to know what you're running.

 

Can you elaborate on your thought process here?

 

So I realize this is an absolute shot in the dark, but do you have any idea what valving I might want in the front shocks?

Im one of the smart ones that built a LT truck out of my daily. Because of that I don’t want to to pull everything apart and wait while I order parts.

Side note I’m also going to try removing that extra leaf and see if that does anything. How much up travel does one usually shoot for?

 

I'm still in my infancy with understanding shock tuning. So bear with me here and set me straight if I'm off. Right now I’m full open on compression tubes to try and salvage an acceptable road manners and keep my teeth in my head on the small chop. I theorize that opening up the tubes fully, could compromise the high speed valving and not put the flow through the piston and shim stack. I'm definitely outside of the region of general adjustment I'd like to be in. Ideally, I’d lighten the slow speed zone and keep the same the medium and high speed zones. That way I can take advantage of tuning the bypass tubes to focus on higher speed driving.

 

Something along the lines of 8/8 in the C/O and 15/8 in the bypass would be pretty standardized. I'm no shock tuning expert so I'm sure someone will try to educate me with their opinion but the general idea is to let the C/O support the vehicle with spring and use the bypass for damping control.

I would probably leave the rear alone for the mean time. If you're SUA you should have +/ 6" of up travel at the least. The major benefit of SUA is the additional bump travel.

 

Thanks. I’ll get this stuff ordered up this week then and I’ll let you know how it goes.

Definitely not pulling a leaf then. I’d say I barely have 6” up travel as it is. Which is kind of funny because after talking to giant he said these springs do best with more weight in the bed. Which is the exact opposite of my experience.