The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

harbor Freight has a hydraulic crimper, 0 - 14 gauge. Works well enough for $70...

 

I’m scared of the hydraulic ones because this is the second one that leaked and died.
No issues with yours ??

 

knock on wood.... not yet. There's a hammer style on Amazon TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper but I've never used it..

 

@RangeRick
Can you see if you feel the gasket on the cab side ?
I noticed my camper isn’t forward enough to the cab so the gasket doesn’t sit on the actual bed. Issue is, you can’t really move the camper forward because it will touch window.

First image shows the area I’m talking about (near cab window )

Second image is placing my phone under the flange to show the gasket doesn’t sit on the bed. I’d be surprised if the gasket shifted. It was adhered to the camper. Maybe the gasket needs to be adhered forward more and not towards the flange.

 

I’ll grab one tomorrow at my local Hf. Says in stock.

 

Any of you guys insulating the bed with like reflectix or the like? I’ll have a diesel heater and plan to camp some nights in 10-15 deg weather( maybe colder). Wondering if it’s worth it or the heater is enough.

 

A BedRug has been enough for me and I don't have a heater.
@gnardoggie is the resident winter camper among us.

 

I use this one. Never fails.
Mofeez Hammer Lug Crimper Tool for 8 AWG - 0000 AWG Battery and Welding Cables

$14 MOFEEZ Hammer Lug Crimper Tool for 8 AWG - 0000 AWG Battery and Welding Cables

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2WS3L4?_encoding=UTF8

 

I have done the doors and rear. I have more for the front. Seeing it helps.

 

Me too. Nothing to break. The only thing with these is you have to plan out your wiring off the vehicle before you Attach anything. You have to have a concrete floor or VERY sturdy surface to hammer on this crimper.

This might not make sense until you screw up but I have needed to crimp/recrimp cables already routed/mounted on a vehicle and didn't have the space or solid surface enough to hammer on this crimper. You have to be creative unless you crimp all cables before they are routed or attached to the vehicle.

 

Yeah @justrussell I been looking at this, but as said, need to plan out the lengths perfectly. I have some wires routed that need to be crimped so need to be able to do it on the vehicle.
I'm going to try the harbor crimper. Hopefully it last longer than my Amazon one.

 

Debating if I want to mount back here or on the side.
This is best for cooking/entry and exit. During good rain though, I feel like protection from the side awning would be best.

 

I'd love to see some pictures of the inside of your X1, including the overhand with the sleeping area retracted. There haven't been a lot of pictures of the X1 on Tacoma long beds!

 

Make sure the exped is fully deflated and you have deflate open and def not inflate open and if you have any extra sleeping bags etc.. the exped will push the tent open if not deflated and inflate capped. Happened to me once and noticed the middle separated as the bed have filled while closed. Once you clear all the extra space and lu e as you have it’s much easier. Any pressure adds up quick. off some feedback from the group I can now close with sleeping bag and blankets left up top of its fully deflated where before it was 50/50 how much I deflated it.

also interesting you I’d to ask for the cutout. The 2 holes they I clouded but had to ask for switch pro plates.

not sure about anyone else but glare is the last though on the window. I can’t see our the back and now that they add molle to the front you. Can’t see anyway

 

Robert, what did you use to insulate the doors and rear? just reflectix? thx

 

Yah just reflectix. I may use some of the extra sound foam I have left since it helps with temp

 

I actually noticed this the other day. The front flange isn’t flush against the bed rail, it’s about a half inch away. I can feel the gasket up in the gap, but that portion of the rail is thinner, so I think that’s just extra gasket. I don’t think it’s gasket material that has slipped out or anything. Also just remembered they doubled the gasket on the front rail because it’s slightly lower than the side rails. Did they do that with yours?

 

so…any more info on the new “plastic” windows?

are they acrylic or polycarbonate? and any plans to combat UV damage?

tbh i don’t really understand the reasoning here; there seem to be plenty of window films designed to reduce glare. plus, glass is much harder to scratch and it won’t fade or yellow years down the road like a coated plastic will… and you can use automotive tint to match other windows if that’s your cup of tea (which you can’t with the composite stuff).

 

103 BF of african mahogany really putting this 8020 roof rack to the test. I might add a third rail down the road.

 

all of the same reasons I reached out to them and asked to keep Glass. Josh said he would make a note to keep them.. Hope they do.