Help with auto transmission shift lever!

I made the big mistake of trying to remove the shift lever on the transmission (I think it's called the transmission control shaft lever) and I broke the stud off with the nut. Has anyone done this before? I think the best idea would be to replace the whole shaft but I think I'll need to remove the valve body to get at it. What do you guys think about tack welding the lever back on to the rod? The rod is squared off to fit in a slot on the lever arm so the weld would only have to keep it in place. Maybe I should be worried about heating up the oil seal so what about JB weld?

 

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THROTTLE LINK & VALVE LEVER (ATM). 2004 Toyota Tacoma EXTRA CAB 3.4L V6 AT

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• SHAFT, MANUAL VALVE LEVER (3556135010)
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This Fits Your 2004 Toyota Tacoma EXTRA CAB 3.4L V6 AT

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• 
  35523A
  CLAMP
  From 199706 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200209.
  00003E 0; 000007 0020 0; VZN195; VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $2.77
  (Original price) $3.74
  MSRP
  9046108681
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• 
  35506C
  PIN
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00003M 0; 000024 0; RZN140,150,19#,VZN195..4FC; RZN140,150,19#,VZN150,195..ATM; SLOTTED SPRING (FOR MANUAL VALVE LEVER SHAFT); SLOTTED SPRING (FOR MANUAL VALVE LEVER); SLOTTED SPRING (FOR TRANSFER MANUAL VALVE LEVER).
  (Current price) $1.87
  (Original price) $2.53
  MSRP
  9025404011
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• 
  35520B
  RING
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  From 200009 to 200209.
  00003M 0; 00001V 0; 000007 0; VZN195; RZN140,150,19#..4FC; RZN140,150,19#,VZN150,195..ATM; O (FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CASE PLUG); O(FOR THROTTLE CABLE).
  (Current price) $2.34
  (Original price) $3.16
  MSRP
  9030109012
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• 
  35556E
  RING, E (FOR PARKING LOCK PAWL SHAFT)
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00003M 0; 000024 0; RZN140,150,19#,VZN195..4FC; RZN140,150,19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $1.85
  (Original price) $2.50
  MSRP
  9052308021
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• 
  35506F
  SEAL, OIL (FOR MANUAL VALVE LEVER SHAFT)
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $6.22
  (Original price) $8.48
  MSRP
  90311A0009
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• 
  35506H
  SPACER
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200302.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM; FOR MANUAL VALVE LEVER; FOR MANUAL VALVE LEVER SHAFT.
  (Current price) $3.51
  (Original price) $4.74
  MSRP
  9056020006
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• 
  35506H
  SPACER
  From 200302 to 200409.
  00000L 0; 00000B 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN140,150..4FC; FOR MANUAL VALVE LEVER; FOR MANUAL VALVE LEVER SHAFT; FOR PARKING LOCK PAWL SHAFT.
  (Current price) $1.81
  (Original price) $2.44
  MSRP
  9056020025
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• 
  35557A
  SPRING, TORSION (FOR PARKING LOCK PAWL)
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $2.53
  (Original price) $3.42
  MSRP
  9050821002
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• 
  35501
  ROD SUB-ASSEMBLY, PARKING LOCK
  From 199706 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $40.19
  (Original price) $56.17
  MSRP
  3550160010
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• 
  35505
  LEVER SUB-ASSEMBLY, MANUAL VALVE
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $43.41
  (Original price) $60.68
  MSRP
  3550550010
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• 
  35520
  CABLE ASSEMBLY, THROTTLE
  From 199706 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200209.
  00003E 0; 000007 0; VZN195; VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $85.13
  (Original price) $118.00
  MSRP
  3552035190
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• 
  35523
  CLAMP, THROTTLE CABLE
  From 199501 to 199909.
  00003E 0; VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $21.08
  (Original price) $29.22
  MSRP
  3552334030
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• 
  35523
  CLAMP, THROTTLE CABLE
  From 199909 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200209.
  00003E 0; 000007 0020 0; VZN195; VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $23.22
  (Original price) $32.18
  MSRP
  3552334040
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• 
  35524
  CLAMP, THROTTLE CABLE, NO. 2
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200209.
  00003E 0; 000007 0020 0; VZN195; VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $4.27
  (Original price) $5.78
  MSRP
  3552434010
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• 
  35556
  SHAFT, PARKING LOCK PAWL
  From 199501 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $12.16
  (Original price) $16.58
  MSRP
  3555630020
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• 
  35557
  PAWL, PARKING LOCK
  From 199706 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $53.41
  (Original price) $74.65
  MSRP
  3555760020
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• 
  35561
  SHAFT, MANUAL VALVE LEVER
  From 199802 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  000012 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195;
  (Current price) $45.04
  (Original price) $62.95
  MSRP
  3556135010
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• 
  35573
  LEVER, TRANSMISSION CONTROL SHAFT, LEFT
  From 199802 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  000012 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195;
  (Current price) $15.49
  (Original price) $21.29
  MSRP
  3557335030
  Add To My Cart
• 
  35595
  BRACKET, PARKING LOCK PAWL
  From 199706 to 200009.
  From 200009 to 200409.
  00000S 0; 00000L 0; RZN19#,VZN195; RZN19#,VZN150,195..ATM;
  (Current price) $31.29
  (Original price) $43.73
  MSRP
  3559560010
  Add To My Cart

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SPWEB38

 

Is that your way of telling me to replace the rod?

 

yes

 

To do the job properly , you will need to change the shaft , but you can cheat .
You can spot weld a nut back on using a mig welder . Just be carefull you dont melt the shifter shaft seal .
Another member on Tacoma World had to do the same thing .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...sions-write-up-your-4-speed-automatic.325531/

Why did you remove the shifter ? Are your shifter bushings wore out ?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ifter-bushings-write-up-with-pictures.565445/

To adjust the shifter , place your truck shifter in park and remove the key .
Go under the truck and loosen the nut , then place the transmission lever in park .
Verify the truck is actually in park by trying to push it by hand .You should hear the transmission click into park as you are rolling the truck by hand .
Tighten the nut back up . Verify the truck only starts in park and Neutral .

 

Hey @gearcruncher I couldn't find the thread you mentioned about the other member doing the same thing. Could you send a link?

I removed the shifter because I'm doing a swap and I want to put the other shape arm on there so it lines up with the linkage

 

I dont remember if it was a private message with myself and the OP or a thread on the message boards as it was over a year ago , but he did weld the nut back on .
OK , you are doing a swap from 2 wheel drive to 4x4 ? you can use the shaft out of the 2 wheel drive transmission , but there is a lot of internal work involved to change it out plus the pan gasket and shifter seals

 

I'm swapping a 1kz-te and the transmission it came with (A343f I think) but I'm using the original linkage. I would really love to avoid messing around with the valve body...

 

heres a little tidbit I found which may give u an idea on how the shaft looks inside the trans, and a little info on how it can be removed post #37 NUMBCHUX https://www.lextreme.com/forums/index.php?threads/87-4runner-1uz-swap-get-comfy.17419/page-2

 

Shit that sucks

 

I think im running into something similar although my issue is with a sticky shift, and when i spray some WD40 on the lever, it frees up the shifts, so I think its too rusted? I didnt see a similar part in the diagram though, anyone else run into this issue?

 

Its not uncommon for those shifters to seize up . You can carefully take them apart , lube them all up and put em back together .
This is a very common issue with Tacomas of all years

 

Any recommendations on the type of lube? Lithium grease?

 

Sure
Lithium will work great

 

I would drill and tap it for a bolt and washer, even 1/4 -20 would work. I wouldn’t weld it due to the seal and all the electronic crap. Never mind. Wicked old thread….

 

I ended up replacing the whole rod. It was a huge pain with the springs and everything. I had never messed with a valve body before but it seems like I got it back together ok....no problems so far. I think a quick tack weld would have been fine but I ended up agreeing with everyone that I didn't want to mess with the seals and I also didn't want it to fail at some point

 

I've searched around. I'm looking for this exact same post but for the 4.0l 5 SPD auto.

How hard is it to replace the entire lever/shaft I twisted off the nut on the driver's side.

I'm planning on replacing the NSS as well because I can't make out the difference from the nut to the shaft because of corrosion.. send prayers lol.

 

You came to the best website , just not to the proper posting for your A750E 5 speed transmission

A good starting spot is here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/

You will find manuals for your transmission at the bottom of the second post . They are in PDF format
After your Safety switch is replaced , have you considered a tack weld ?
Would be much easier and cheaper for you to go the way of a quick weld rather than dropping the transmission pan , dropping the valve body and replacing that lever shaft .
Do you live in the rust belt or you just enjoy taking your truck swimming ?
That nut got rusty for a reason

 

I missed that pdf! That thread is remarkable in value, That's a great help, thanks.

I'll tac weld it for now. Eventually, I'm going to either get this tranny rebuilt, or get a second one rebuilt and swap it in. I'd do it all right now but I just finished putting on an ironman stage 2 lift. My original driver's side strut snapped because of rust, go figure. I was under the truck, started playing with the linkage to get it loosened up again, and pop! I've been fighting this problem off and on for months and my next step is the NSS.

To weld it, what should I be cautious of? Have you welded any yourself or ran into any problems with the welds? Feel free to dm me to keep the thread clean.

I live in Atlantic Canada, where we salt and sand the roads 5 months a year. The truck has a new frame, exhaust and now suspension. all that's left now is the motor, transmission, and drivetrain!