Wyoming B.S. Thread

Certainly would get the use out of em I'd think.

 

Yeah I mean I doubt he is getting any slower and weight is always the killer here too. Which I know he'd been pretty good at keeping it "lighter" but still is a pig either way. haha

Weight and speed. The too killers.

 

I'll doubt many things in this world, histories of events proven by science....before I'd doubt Dan's ability to be slower.

 

OK, so tell me about chromoly axles. As in, are they "the same" as Toyota axles, but just a different material? Or does it mean I start using entirely different parts all along the way (seals, bearings, etc.)

 

They're machined identical to your current axles, just a superior material for resistance to bending or altering its geometry while still remaining ductile enough to not be brittle. They're made out of 4130 alloy if you're interested in looking it up

 

So did you order a fabbed, full float, Ford 9", trussed, with disc's today's Dan?

I've got a 14 bolt I'd sell you if not.

 

LOL.

Nothing yet. Apparently FROR / Diamond only do email (no phone - voicemail is full, hahaha) so I've started the thread. Didn't get an answer to maybe the most important question - timeline - so hopefully tomorrow I find that out and order from them or figure another route.

Apparently full float means that disc brakes are a requirement; not sure I really want to go that route. On the flip side, a semi-float was surprisingly reasonably priced. Cheaper than new OEM, but of course a lot of "fab" work required once I get it (leaf perches, shock mounts (which I'd have to do anyway), and all the other crap that mounts to the housing).

 

what was the cost of the semi float?

 

Good opportunity to get the pinion angle perfect. Brake lines aren't too bad, could cut the mounts off your old housing, or do all new cleaner brake lines. I'd also ditch the LSVP at the same time if you haven't already.

 

I just did this on two rigs, should be the first mod IMHO on a 1st gen. Love the difference.

 

I noticed no change honestly. My valve also makes no change.

 

Did you have your rear blocked up already? Without the fluid return line to the front and with the rear dialed in it made an appreciable difference. But I've seen lots of misadjusted and stuck drums and I can't imagine it would do anything to those.

 

blocked up?

You mean adjusted?

I did adjust them and the stopping power was great some time after I did the valve. But still making adjustments did not change the behavior much.

 

The rear valve has a limited range of adjustment, it's pretty useless all things considered. Even ziptied all the way up "blocked up", it' doesn't do a whole fuck of a lot. Yank it and cap the return line port at the front tee and man she can stop when you adjust the manual valve.

 

no no. I mean my manual valve. I don't have the stock one at all anymore or the return line.

 

Oh, gotcha, well I've done a couple of em now and it makes a huge difference not being so limited in how much rear bias I can apply. We're all way over GVWR and GAWR anyway so makes sense we'd need more bias

 

yeah It doesn't seem to make a difference in terms of tuning. I'd say it did help with overall braking. But adjustment wise, no.

Still the best stopping truck I have is the single cab. Can lock those up easily.

 

I have too much rear braking with my LSVP "blocked up". Under hard braking I can lock up the rears in the wet. On the trail, hard braking in a turn, the rear wants to come around. This is happening when I am not fully loaded. It happens less at max weight.

Is there a way to do a partial "block up"? The rod was cut off and the stub is zip tied in the up position.

 

Do what @IDtrucks did and use a eye bolt and nut to move the rod up and down I guess. Or a manual prop valve like I did and just adjust it for your current weight

 

I used the Front Range Offroad kit Mike if you're interested in that route.