Build Thread: Ultimate Bed Drawer System for Camping/Cooking/Tailgating

cjptacoma · Nov 12, 2020

G-shock! said: ↑

Nice work. Modded Tacoma- check, camping gear and GF - check, Evil Mtb - double check!
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Hell ya man! What more do you need in life?!

Crosis · Nov 13, 2020

That’s an insane build.

renocl01 · Nov 13, 2020

Awesome job! This is by far one of the most detailed, practical and helpful builds I have come across.

sachou · Jan 17, 2021

Thanks largely to your inspiration, I finished my drawer build! Check it out here if you're interested: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/k-a-m-p-drawers-kitchen-and-mattress-platform.703676/

outershell · Jan 17, 2021

cjptacoma[OP] said: ↑

Ahh I didn't cover that in writing, but if you go back a couple of pictures you can see a street elbow coming out of the water tank with a red test plug it. To fill the tank, you just remove the test plug and fill it up! I sometimes use a funnel, but have had great success with a garden hose as well.

The plug is also accessible without flipping the mechanical compartment hatch up. I can just slide my mattress back about 12 in and access it that way too. It's worked surprisingly well.
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Thank you for this detailed writeup. Couple questions about your water tank.

Can you link to that fill dish you have with the red plug? I assume its screwed into the 1.5" fitting?
Also does water ever spill out of your vent or do you have a hose connected to it?

LukeR · Jan 17, 2021

Those drawer builds are incredible!

cjptacoma · Jan 18, 2021

sachou said: ↑

Thanks largely to your inspiration, I finished my drawer build! Check it out here if you're interested: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/k-a-m-p-drawers-kitchen-and-mattress-platform.703676/

Click to expand...

Great job man! Looks awesome. I love what you did with the counter tops!

cjptacoma · Jan 18, 2021

outershell said: ↑

Thank you for this detailed writeup. Couple questions about your water tank.

Can you link to that fill dish you have with the red plug? I assume its screwed into the 1.5" fitting?
Also does water ever spill out of your vent or do you have a hose connected to it?
Click to expand...

Ah are you taking about the fitting? I just used a 1-1/2 in MPT street 90. Here's a link:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...reet-Elbow-Fitting-PVC-02306-1400HD/203822587

And the test plug:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Gripper-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33400/100342630

Great question about the vent. If I have the tank filled to the brim, it will sometimes slosh out a bit. The quick fix to that would be to add a small inline valve that I can close off when driving. I'll probably do that for next season!

outershell · Jan 18, 2021

Yes, that's what I was looking for. Thank you!
Starting my build soon.

outershell · Mar 4, 2021

One more question. Where did you get those string lights that go around your windows?

Ikemotercyke · Mar 28, 2021

cjptacoma[OP] said: ↑

@UnAverage Joe the whole thing cost about $300 (plus a stimulus check).

It would be cheaper if I did it again though. One previous version of this had a $100 Chinese diesel heater built in, so I’m sitting on one of those. I also bought extra fittings, wire, etc for prototyping.
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Ikemotercyke · Mar 28, 2021

What would you do differently if you did it again that would be more cost efficient. This is the coolest build I’ve seen I’d like to recreate this for my truck

sjw4x4 · Apr 5, 2021

Wow this is absolutely incredible. Is there any chance that I could have access to the SW assembly? If you have no problem with that, my email is sjwproduction@gmail.com

Thanks so much

cjptacoma[OP] initial post: ↑

Hey guys,

I recently designed and built a bed platform and drawer system that contains a mobile camp kitchen complete with a built-in propane cooktop, a sink and shower with a 5gal water tank and pump, and 12V and 120V systems with a 35Ah battery. It also has a standard 5’ pull out drawer. The whole system fits into the bed of my 2012 Tacoma with a 6’ bed. It's 8.5 inches tall.

Over the course of the build I ended up taking a lot of of pictures, and figured I would share them with the TW universe. I tried to be thorough, but of course message me if you have any questions! It also might take me a couple of posts to get it all down.

I'll start with some highlight pics:

The Evolution:

I’ll start with my truck. I have a 2012 Tacoma Access Cab with a 6’ bed. I bought it used about 2.5 years ago, and over the past year I’ve been slowly turning into a truck camping cable rig.

Last December I added a Leer 100XR cap and built a small bed platform for inside. I wanted the ability to sit up inside, so I built it to fit between the wheel wells (lower than the standard bed platform height, I get a lot of question on that). I framed it in 2x6’s with 3/4in plywood that I carpeted on top. The plywood top was cut into thirds (along the length of the bed), and was hinged so that I could lift it open and store stuff underneath. Everything for this build was from Home Depot.

This system took me about three hours to make and actually worked surprisingly well. The thing it taught me is that headspace is really valuable. Also, having the system fit between the wheel wells give you little storage cubbies on each side which are nice for shoes, water bottles, etc. Definitely glad I put this thing together before spending more time/money on something more substantial.

I always planned on building something better for the long run, but never put too much thought into the design (I just knew I wanted drawers). My girlfriend and I were backcountry skiing last winter, and ended up boondocking out in the country and cooking breakfast at the trail head. That gave me the idea to make a mobile camp kitchen sorts, and thus the idea was born.

Quick GF pic for good measure. Not going to lie, this platform worked great. It cost like $50 and the little storage bins fit literally perfectly underneath the hinged platform.

Idea/Inspiration/Use:

After last winter on the original platform I started brainstorming a more permanent design. I wanted something that was purpose built for the activities I like doing the most, namely skiing, hiking, biking, camping, and cooking. It needed to be sleek, highly functional, and cool. It also needed to be cold weather compatible (I live in the Northeast and we experience sub-zero temps all winter). Finally, it needed to preserve the utility of my truck. I use my truck for my business, and regularly need the bed. I wanted something that maintained hauling space and could also be easily removed.

Mandatory features were:

1.Must be low profile as possible (to maximize head space)
2.Must be removable
3.Must have two drawers
4.Must allow quick setup and take down for cooking
5.Must maximize counter space
6.Must be electrically isolated from the truck electrical system
7.Must be built to last.

High Level Design:

I started with a standard, ubiquitous two-drawer design. I realized pretty quickly that it would be fun to make one of the drawers a “kitchen” slide. This would satisfy the requirement of allowing quick setup and take down of cooking equipment. Initially, this was just a platform for a camp stove, but ended up turning into something a little more extensive. After a lot of drafting in Solidworks, I came up with this design which was the starting point for this build. (Pardon the crappy screen grab from Solidworks. I can get more detailed shots if people want.)

I researched built-in propane cooktops, and found this

$314 Dometic DROP-IN COOKTOP - Two Burner Cooktop Cast Iron/Flat Wire Grate -Top Mount Stove for RV and Outdoor Camper Kitchens

Dometic which was affordable and low-profile enough to fit in a drawer. There is also a metal cover available which helps with wind resistance while cooking and allows for the stove to be used as counterspace when not cooking. Note that it requires low-pressure propane, so you need a

$17 DOZYANT Vertical 2 Feet Propane Regulator and Hose Universal Grill Regulator Replacement Parts, QCC1 Hose and Regulator for Most LP Gas Grill, Heater and Fire Pit Table,3/8" Female Flare Nut

low-pressure hose and regulator. Also if you want to use it with 1lb bottles, you need an

$9 GASPRO 1lb Propane Tank Adapter, 20lb to 1lb Converter, Hook Up Small Propane Tanks When 20lb Ran Out, Solid Brass

adapter.

Of course, if you have a cooktop you obviously need a sink, right? Not really, but where’s the fun if you don’t make it as complicated as possible. I started by looking at built-in RV sinks, which I was underwhelmed with and found to be extraordinarily expensive. Premade options with a sink that was shallow enough (4 or less inches deep) to fit into the drawer were also limited. I did some more research, and ended up sourcing a 4 x 10 x 12-inch steam table pan which I modified for use with a

Foldable RV Faucet Rotating Single Handle Deck/Wall Mounted RV Kitchen Tap

folding tap from Amazon. The sink/faucet packs down perfectly for sliding and storage in the bed, and was $35 instead of the $500+ premade options.

In the remaining space, I added a storage compartment with a top that is mounted on

Antrader Lift Up Top Mechanism Hardware Folding Spring Tea Table Hinge Furniture Air-Operated Lifting Rack Shelf Bracket for Coffee Computer Table, Sold as Pairs

coffee table hinges. This allows storage access while maintaining a flat surface for cooking (see pic 3 above). The top is locks down with these

$16 HYDDNice 1pc 2-13/32" Dia. Flush Pull Hatch Latch 316 Stainless Steel Marine Boat Hatch Latch Pull - Non Locking (1)

marine pull latches.

Both drawers are attached using 5’ drawer slides. These were the second most expensive part of the build (around $400 for two pairs), and also weigh around 60lbs combined. If you want a lighter, cheaper option for drawers, check out this method used in this video.

Plumbing Design

If you have a sink, you need obviously water. My intention for this project was to build something that would allow camping/boondocking for up to 2-3 days. Based on a 1-2 gal/day use for 2 people, I ended up spec’ing

$57 Class A Customs | T-0500 | One (1) 5 Gallon RV Fresh and Gray Water Holding Tank RV Concession

5-gallon water tank. This tank lives in the last foot of bed space behind the drawers and connects to the pull out using 1/2in retracting hose that I spec’d from McMaster-Carr. The sink is fed by a

$30 Camplux 12V DC Water Pump, 1.2GPM Diaphragm Pump for Caravan RV Marine Fishing Boat

12v 1.5 GPM diaphragm pump (self-priming) that is pressure actuated. When you open the tap it senses the pressure drop and turns on. The system is also fed through a diverting valve, allowing the tank to be valved off and the lines to the kitchen slide blown out with air (for winterizing the system). This works quite well. Everything is plumbed in 1/2NPT x 3/8 barb fittings.

Finding the right tank/pump was one of the most time-intensive and iterative parts of the whole design process. The size of the tank was a driver of the overall height of the bed platform, and finding something that would fit in the small space I had to work with was difficult. Off the shelf tank options that are < 10 gallons are also limited.

Electrical Design

This was my favorite part of the build. For the electrical, I wanted something that would allow us to charge our phones, laptops, camera batteries, etc. Also, adding the 12v pump for the sink required energy, as does the cooktop (12v ignition). Same design priorities as above, enough energy for 2-3 days of camping ideally. It was also paramount to me that the drawer system/battery be electrically isolated from my trucks electrical system. In no way did I want this thing to every drain my truck battery.

After many energy use calculations and battery placement varieties in CAD, I converged on a design that uses a 35Ah ReLion lithium battery to power independent 12v and 120v systems. Because we winter camp, I sized the battery so that it could run a 12v 50W electric blanket for 8 hours. That math looks like this:

35Ah at 12.8v = 448Wh (Power = Current * Voltage, so 35Ah at 12.8V means 448Wh).

This means the battery can supply 448W for 1 hour, or 50W (448Wh/50W) for 8.96 hours if discharged 100% with no conversion losses. I called it 8 hours for good measure. Battery energy is also highly temperature dependent, so it will probably be even less than that.

120v is supplied by a

$24 BESTEK 300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Car Inverter with 4.2A Dual USB Car Adapter

small 300W inverter that is tucked behind the battery.

The battery is charged by a

$132 Victron Energy Blue Smart IP65 Smart Car Battery Charger 12V 10A, Float & Trickle Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, RV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries

Victron SmartBlue charger that plugs into the inverter plug in the Tacoma bed. To charge the system, I simply hit the inverter switch while driving and the system turns on. It also has Bluetooth, so you can monitor/modify voltage and current from your phone in the cab. The best part of this solution is that it maintains electrical separation between the drawer system and the truck. By keeping the two systems separate, there’s minimal ability for the drawer system to interfere or damage any part of the truck electronics. This is good in the case of electrical shorts, and to make sure you never wake up to a flat truck battery. It takes about 3 hours to fully charge.

As for outlets, I put his/her

PD 3.0 USB C Socket 12V Installation: 65W Type C USB Socket Waterproof 12 Volt Adapter with Switch for Camper car Motorcycle Boat Truck Caravan

combination 12V/USB outlets on each side of the drawer system that are easily accessible while sleeping. There is also a

ZRM&E 2pcs 15A 125V Electrical Power Socket Outlet Waterproof Industrial Safety Socket with Cover US 3 Pin Female Panel Mount Socket Adapter

120v plug on one side.

I also brought the 12v and 120v systems into the kitchen drawer by using a 4 conductor 16AWG retractable SJOW cord. There is another combination 12v/USB outlet on the kitchen drawer, as well as 120v plug.

The 12v and120v systems, as well as the pump, are switched using washdown rocker switches. The 12v and 120v systems are also on

$13 EHDIS 4-Pin Car Truck Motor Heavy Duty 80A 12V On/Off Normally Open SPST Relay Socket Plug With Harness - 4 Wire Automotive Model JD2912-1H-12VDC 80A 14VDC, Pack of 2

12v normally-open automotive relays to minimize amp draw through the switches. I also spec’d a cheap

DC Multifunction Battery Monitor Meter,0-200V,0-100A (Widely Applied to 12V/24V/48V RV/Car Battery) LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Solar Power Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter

inline power monitor to measure power in/outflows.

Lastly, the kitchen storage compartment has a

PryEU Daylight White 6000K LED Strip Lights 12V for Interior Car Automotive Boats Motorcycle Lighting 12'' 30CM 2835 SMD UL Listed Pack of 4

12v LED strip on a

Directed Electronics 8600 Micro Magnetic Switch

magnetic switch that turns on when you open the compartment.

I drew up the wiring in Illustrator to make this whole system clear. It's really simple which is nice and made wiring a snap.

Now manufacturing... next!
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TacoChick87 · May 26, 2021

Would you consider building one for my taco? This is exactly what i'm looking for.

Truckstuff93 · Sep 13, 2021

Do you have the solidworks CAD files available? Trying to design one for a F-150

Dvst8r1K · Sep 30, 2021

This entire write up belongs in the pages of "Mechanix" magazine as a full featured article. Best I've ever seen, hands down. If the mag is still around??? More than anything, at least in the pages of 4WDToyotaOwner!!! Are they still around as well??? Bad ass build bro!!!

cjptacoma · Sep 29, 2021

Hi everyone!

Apologies for my absence maintaining this thread. I definitely owe you all an update detailing my experience with this 1st generation design over the past year or so. The long and short is that it's worked excellent for the most part! I've made only a few modifications that I will try to detail shortly.

In the meantime, I've been messaged quite a bit about the CAD files I showed of the first page of my build. Rather than send them to everyone individually, I've posted them in a shared Dropbox folder linked below:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oro8fyuigmg805w/AAAULKP0zmFmG9EL8oefkcmca?dl=0

The modeling was done in Solidworks, so you'll need that to open the files.

Cheers!
Cameron

WhiskeyHole · Nov 13, 2021

cjptacoma[OP] said: ↑

Hi everyone!

Apologies for my absence maintaining this thread. I definitely owe you all an update detailing my experience with this 1st generation design over the past year or so. The long and short is that it's worked excellent for the most part! I've made only a few modifications that I will try to detail shortly.

In the meantime, I've been messaged quite a bit about the CAD files I showed of the first page of my build. Rather than send them to everyone individually, I've posted them in a shared Dropbox folder linked below:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oro8fyuigmg805w/AAAULKP0zmFmG9EL8oefkcmca?dl=0

The modeling was done in Solidworks, so you'll need that to open the files.

Cheers!
Cameron
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Rad, thanks for sharing!

cjptacoma · Nov 14, 2021

WhiskeyHole said: ↑

Rad, thanks for sharing!
Click to expand...

Of course! Hope it’s helpful!

rastaban · Nov 14, 2021

This is absolutely mindblowing y'all. I wish I had that kind of skill!

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Build Thread: Ultimate Bed Drawer System for Camping/Cooking/Tailgating

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