What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Did it fit? I also recently recieved this filter & can't find a definitive answer whether it'll work before trying it. Thanks

 

The

$54 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD3 for the tundra will fit if you want a back up/alternative, it's like an inch taller than the stock size filter. I like it since it's easier to get my hand around than the stock size. Been running them for years now with no issues

 

It did fit, no issues.

 

Posted at the taco shop with the taco

 

I just saw the breather tube coming out of the actuator and assumed it was a Vacuum line and a quick look through my Haynes manual starting pointing towards VSV's so I jumped to conclusions.

I'm still not sure what is wrong with the 4x4 system. I did see a thread in the 2nd Gen section of people soldering the terminals of the Actuator motor in place and I believe that's the same differential (from 00-06) I'm not sure if that's what my deal is but I'm not sure where else to look.

 

what is the issue? 4wd not working? Actuator could have seized/died but doesn’t look like you have enough rust for that. Typically that happens out here where salt water gets into the actuator from a damaged breather and lack of use makes them seize. What are the symptoms?

 

totally different diff than 2nd gen tacomas. They have an 8'' clamshell that is also a wider setup than our 7.5'' clamshell.

Id first check the switch on the tcase to make sure it's sending the signal for the actuator to actually move first. Common for those to go out.

 

When I shift into 4Hi / 4Lo the light never comes on and the front drive doesn't engage. The locker and low range is working beautifully. The last time I used it when I shifted back into 2wd the dash lights stayed lit for maybe 5 minutes and then the light went off and I haven't seen it since then.

 

Do I just ground the connector for the 4wd position switch

 

Bought a new 1st gen knowing it was throwing a P0171 code. MAF was visibly dirty, so I cleaned it, and cleaned the throttle body while I was at it. Code hasn't come back in 200 miles and she's purring like a tiger now.

 

Unless it's different on the 03, that shouldn't cause any issues. Mines unplugged for 2 low.

 

I unplugged it to test it

 

Is this a j shift or push button tcase?

I think it's pins two and six at the actuator that should show voltage when engaged disengaged. Not sure if it says in the Haynes manual but the fsm has it.

 

J shift

I have the Haynes manual on my lap and the owners manual on the table next to me.
The Haynes manual shows a different Actuator Connector Terminal (im assuming it's for the button push shift selector T case) the connector on my differential is in a single row of six pins vs the shown two rows of three pins.



It's still 6 pins so maybe the order is the same if I can determine one from six

 

Are you positive that your front driveshaft is not spinning when in low? That would indicate a mechanical problem with the tcase not the ADD.

 

Finally got around to swapping out the front original (2004) shocks for a new set of 5100's: left it on 1st clip, stock height with stock springs. Ride is soooo much better, feels better planted over bumps.

 

Good call and easy enough to test. Put on 4 jack stands and see what's happening. If the front drive shaft spins but not the passenger tire then it's an issue at the ADD. If the front drive shaft doesn't even spin then it's an issue at the tcase. J shifts don't have an actuator on the t-case do they? I have a push button.

 

@cynicalrider. Just the actuator on the front dif.
I'll put it on jack stands this afternoon and see what's spinning.

 

Took the Honda to the car wash today, a new project to work on

 

It's been a Long time since I played with one of those. Looks like fun