ADD to Manual Hub conversion?

Anyone know of a vendor that sells a COMPLETE kit for doing this conversion?

I have read somewhere that it requires some different axle shafts and stuff, and I understand that there was some "special" machining required to get the proper clearances when bolting up.

 

There is no "kit"

You simply -

Replace the axle/wheel hub on your spindle or completely replace your spindles with the appropriate wheel hub already pressed in.

Replace your ADD cv axles with manual hub axles.

Purchase manual hub assemblies.

Replace your ADD diff tube with a manual hub vatiant or clamp your ADD diff tube into the engaged position.

You're just taking factory parts and replacing them with other factory parts. There is no machining or anything at all that you speak of required.

 

If you look at your own truck, and understand the parts it has, and how it works, it'll be easy to understand the parts you're replacing them with.

Front differential is the same on both manual hub and ADD trucks; only difference is the tube extending out on the passenger side.

Spindles are the same, it's just the hub attached to it that's different which allows the mounting of the manual hub assembly.

The cv axles, because ADD variants are held by a 35mm bolt and cotter pin. Manual hub variants are held by a retaining ring, and have the manual hub assembly go over it. Factory also has a 'back up' bolt with washer that bolts at the end of the cv axle but I rarely see it used.

 

Hmmmm; I think there is.......
doing more searching and found this: https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-manual-hub-conversion-kit/

Anyone have any experience buying from this company? Good or Bad?

 

Why do I even bother explaining stuff

 

Thanks! Good info. I just remembered reading somewhere that the difference in the tube on the passenger side caused "something" to not bolt-up properly because of a clearance difference between manual & ADD tube. Sorry, going by memory.

 

With comments like that, I wonder too (why you even bother).

I thank you and appreciate you sharing your knowledge of this subject, as it is the reason that forums like this exist is because nobody can know everything, and I am not afraid to ask questions about things that I know little or nothing about.

Now let me ask you one more question "Kwikvette":
If you wanted to know what aquatic herbicide would be best to use to control Myriophyllum Spicatum in a freshwater environment without killing the fish and everything else, who would you ask? Do you know what a Limnologist is? That is who I would ask, of course I have the knowledge and experience to know that, and I would assume that you don't?

I certainly do not know exactly why you made the statement, "why do I even bother explaining stuff", but I hope that I have explained easily WHAT thoughts and subsequent response you get from posting it.

Knowledge and assistance is all we come here for, and we do offer suggestions, we (at least I don't) request or "expect" anything in return.

 

No, I know what you're getting at but you're going the wrong way about it.

I like to explain things, assuming you don't know (hence why you asked). But after the long winded posts, you opted to ask about a 'kit' that is altogether incomplete, and more work even as you have to put the cv axles together.

Toyota cv axles, whether manual hub or ADD, are plenty strong as are the components associated.

You don't need to deviate from what Toyota offers in a factory setup as others will say the same thing.

 

Unless of course you are going with a much larger tire and wheel setup, which alone bring other items that'll need replacing and/or upgrading.

 

I can set you up with a whole conversion setup if you are interested. I have done this for a few others and there are pics in my thread below. Either parts of full refurbished OEM setups with new consumables or just raw parts. I also have manual diff tubes as well to swap out on your front diff when converting from ADD to manual, although not completely required will make for a cleaner setup.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/for-sale-4x4-manual-hubs-spindles-knuckles-and-cvs.709082/

 

Owned three 4x4 Tacomas, all with an ADD (2001, 2005, 2010)... 380,000 combined miles... most 4 wheeling done in Baja California... and I have never had an issue with the ADD working or not getting true 4WD action.

 

While only owning one Toyota (so far) and doing less miles than you Ive never had an issue with the factory ADD setup. I think those few that have had issues are mostly due to water, with a very select few mechanical breakages due to extreme use.

Recently seen two trucks myself in person that had issues related to water. Dont personally think thats a good enough reason to do the conversion though.

 

I cover the conversion in my build thread where I am converting my truck to a 4x4.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/another-prerunner-4x4-conversion-thread-my-2004-build.722859/

Forget buying a kit, my entire conversion cost less - here is what you need

Aisin Locking Manual Hubs x2 - $364.72 (bought on Amazon)
Manual locking wheel hub & bearing - $211.62 (bought on Amazon)
CV axles for manual locking hubs - x2 - $200.61
8 mm hardware kit (w/ cone washers & studs) - $110.32
Hub gaskets x2 - $15.01
Manual diff tube - $97.53 (bought from Yota Yard in Denver)
Wheel bearing seals x2 - $38.92 (bought on Amazon)
Front Wheel Seals x2 - $8.86 (bought on Amazon)

You could go without the manual diff tube, but overall I used all OEM parts (minus the CV's & Wheel bearing/hub) and everything came out to $1,047.59 - which is $350 cheaper than the kit you're looking at and you get Aisin locking hubs vs the Warn ones.

 

All fair points, arguably, the spindles, bearings and CVs are probably the most important parts that you would want in OEM specs. However, your budget your money your decision. The ORS kit also requires you reuse the inner CV cups and knuckles and then reboot which isn't figured into the cost. As well, this post points out the Aisin lockouts have been known to be far superior over the Warn in this design.

 

I’ve looked at this kit before. Honestly I haven’t done the conversion on my truck because I honestly don’t think it’s going to make any difference. ARB recommended a manual hub conversation in the directions of installing my front locker. I can see, thinking about how the ADD works where there would be a benefit as far as wear goes. The axles are turning all the time, but actually more than just the axles. The ring and pinion are stationary, meaning the driver’s side axle is turning the spider gears (they are hauling ass) and your intermediate drive shaft is spinning in the opposite direction than your passenger side axle.
Will the manual hub truck get better fuel mileage? Ride better? Why?
At the end of my internal brain argument with myself, I told myself that I am too lazy to get out and lock the hubs in, plus I like just pulling it into 4x4 at anytime better, and then what the hell would I do with my wheels? Cut holes in the center caps, or will the center caps go over them? Probably one of the only times I’ve ever decided to leave “well enough” alone!

 

In trying to answer this question asked by others before in conversations some things that I have laid out are below:

1. Manual allows the CVs to remain stationary while driving (no parasitic horsepower loss - read as extremely minimal, no I have no data or science to back up how much)
2. Since CVs sit stationary there is less boot wear (helps especially if there is a more extreme boot angle)
3. Trail repair with manual CV setup can be viewed by some as easier to just remove the axle and keep on driving as opposed to ADD axle which would require leaving the outer CV hub in place and cutting or securing in place the CV axle body to limp off the trail.
4. IG points for the sexy dial in the middle of your rims so people can talk to you about all the hardcore mall crawling you do with truck.
5. Some say the manual axles are weaker due to spline counts over the ADD axles, but I haven't ever seen this really proven or heard of this much at all (I this just boils down to anecdotal experiences). The manual axles are smaller in diameter at the outer splines.
6. You don't have to worry about electronic actuators or switches. This doesn't appear to be a huge problem for anybody but more of a simplicity in design when swapping from prerunner to 4wd in lieu of manual to ADD.

Hope this helps.

 

Exactly! So is the conversion worth the hassle and money? To me, it’s not. My lift isn’t that radical. I guess it’s just a personal decision that everyone makes. I had an all out drag out argument with myself, and we finally agreed to leave it alone! LMAO!

 

You can do it for cheaper, by doing what @Kwikvette said. That kit doesn't include the manual diff tube (so you would have to clamp the ADD diff tube... also, that leaves you with the ADD stub shaft, which is a weak link in the ADD system)

Also... no way in hell I'd run Warn manual hubs over Aisian hubs.

 

I kept the add on my 4runner when i did this conversion idk why people remove it to full manual. I like that i can lock and unlock without getting out of my 4runner and still being able to fully unlock the dials when not in use.

 

I was about to link your for sells post myself!