How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Mine is still available, if nobody is interested I'm going to part out soon and use the extrusion for something else

 

This thread has a ridiculous amount of information and talent. I am about to start ordering materials for mine but have a few questions. I'm also planning on doing the space frame and finishing out the upper wedge before doing any of the lower doors in an attempt to get some desert trips in this fall.

1 - 1" x 1" tubing for the floor supports to save weight - any issues? If Ripcords v1 was 1" everywhere I don't think this would be an issue.

2 - 3" and 3" extrusions - any issues closing the tent with a 4" mattress? I would like to go this route to save some $$, gain some structure for a roof rack, not have to get full anodized extrusions, and I have less overhang.

3 - In the @Ripcord spreadsheet, there is an alternate tent attachment method. Has anyone tried this? Or done a small test fit section? It looks like it would make installation more difficult, but cleaner.



EDIT: Question 4 - Has anyone countersunk the AluPanel for FHCS?


Including SW screenshots for attention




Thanks in advance for any and all help that you guys can provide.

 

I used 3in 8020 for base and top. No issues so far. I ended up making some braces with 1530 1.5 in extrusion, on the top portion for the panel to be more secure and be able to hold serious weight. Also used 6mm panel for sides and floor, but only 3mm for roof. If I did it again I would use 6mm all around just to keep it uniform

 

I gave up on DIY'ing my own camper but have still been enjoying the thread... This is available to anyone who would like to use it for further prototyping/materials/whatever!:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ent-frame-bed-rack-free.738948/#post-26304438

Also, I would love to get your collective thoughts on an in-truck iphone leveling stand. I may make a few to solicit feedback...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/zs-approach-utility-build.464628/page-10#post-26305106

 

Does anybody in the Denver/Boulder area have a welding fixture they are willing to sell? I'm gearing up to weld my frame and I'm trying to save some time.

 

All,

Reaching out again, in serious need of someone in the Los Angeles area that can sew or has contacts that have performed this portion before. I've got all the materials but I just don't have the time or honestly the patience. I started planning it out over the weekend and was more frustrated than happy. I've been waiting on this portion for months now. I'll throw a case of beer to anyone that can actually get this done lol

 

1. I used 1x1 for the floor, and it is fine. Mine is 0.125" aluminum, and there isn't much bowing with me sitting on it (200lb).

2. No issues with the mattress to my knowledge, there are several folks on here that went with 3" for top and bottom to save time and money. Even with full overhangs.

3. I haven't seen anyone actually attempt this yet. Honestly, it doesn't seem as worth it as just using the keder rail and cord. The reason I say this is because of the following:

A. You'll never be able to remove the canvas for repairs/alterations without disassembling the entire extrusion portion (top and bottom). This means peeling and resealing the roof, floors, corners, etc versus just taking the keder rail bolts off.
B. It is a sew-in plastic (PVC), which may be prone to fatigue over time as you open/close again and again.
C. You still have to put it in the same location as the keder rail, so it doesn't save any space.
D. It takes a special machine to sew.

That all being said, you'd be the first to try it!
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4. No one has mentioned countersinking the heads like that. It could certainly work, but could allow for leaks.

On a side note, your rear hatch braces won't work with gas struts (ask me how I know).

 

for the 4” mattress I would say it depends on the width. I went 3” extrusions and the exped mega mat duo. I actually made my width 3” wider than Ripcord’s.

I made a movable platform instead of fixed so I needed the mattress to move. With my dimensions it’s pretty tight and I found it somewhat difficult to close the tent. I eventually went with a 2 piece custom matter but only 3” high and ain’t looking back.

If you not moving the mattress at all you might be fine but others have commented for the 3” extrusions they’d rather go wider if getting a 4” mattress.

 

Thanks for your response. Quick calculator says that the 16 ga steel should be stiffer, so I will stay with skinny tube.

I hadn't thought about the need to repair/upgrade the tent later. It seems like it would be cleaner, but not worth it. Work does have a sewing machine that we use to go through 8 layers of structural nylon webbing, so I wasn't concerned about that part.

Thanks for the heads up about the braces. I am still planning on putting all the doors and struts in SW to check everything, maybe I'll end up with a plate gusset.

 

Thanks, I am planning on keeping the mattress fixed in place, going to stick with the 3".

 

Just a head's up for those ordering 8020 any time soon - I placed my order 5/13, and just received them today. My ship date from 8020 pushed back several times. Their lead time schedule on their website is not even close to accurate.

A bit bummed, as I probably won't use my camper this season, as I don't expect to do any winter camping. But at least this gives me a lot of time to take move carefully and get everything nice and tight, and it'll be nice to have a topper for the winter when I eventually mount it (I'm in CO). I did already sew up my canvas and feel confident in the dimensions - a bit of a risk doing it before the wedge was built, but I can still take in or let out areas that might be tight. And the topper portion is complete, so I don't have a whole lot of work left overall.

 

I know @YamaDirtrider waited about the same amount of time too

 

Would have been nice if their website didn’t say 8 weeks when it’s 20 haha. I’ve had the space frame portion and canvas done since mid July just taking up space in my garage.

Oh well, at least the shitshow is over. Communication was awful from both 8020 and the local distributor I ordered it through. Would get a new ship date, and that date would come and go, and I’d get no notification or any information. All 4 times that happened I had to bug them nonstop to get another update.

Totally get the lack of workers and supply chain issues - all I cared about was even a hint of communication.

 

I had the exact same experience, they're awful.

13 weeks for mine.

 

Who did you order through?
I used fiero automation, I did have to keep emailing them every few weeks, but would get a rough update each time. Granted, I had 103” bars and machining on all of them.

 

I also ordered through Fiero Automation. Granted, my bars are longer, as I've changed a handful of things from Ripcord's original design. So I had 10' bars (black ano), and also 5 extra bars for an independent bed platform inside. No machining though.

Out of curiosity, how long ago did you receive yours?

 

8020's turn around time is long... I ordered everything in mid May and got it in late July

 

the ACM panel is rather thin, not much there to countersink a fastener.

 

Still in shipment. Will be here mid next week. Ordered back on 4/18-ish

 

For the ones with the long 8020 shipments, you all ordered the black anodized ones...correct?
Back in February I also ordered these but canceled the order because of the long shipment. Then I placed and order for the normal silver ones, which I received after around 1.5 weeks for I think 200$ less.

So when the color is not an absolute deal breaker, I would recommend everyone to just go with the standard color. I didn't regret it a second.