ADD to Manual Hub conversion?

You can still do this with a manual setup, just leave the transfer case in 2WD but leave the hubs locked and never have to get out of your truck.

 

There are a few reasons why people opt to go to Manual hubs.

When converting to 4wd from Prerunnner, it's by far the simpler solution than ADD

Also... ADD not actuating properly is also a reason. That is a known, and common problem with the ADD system, and pretty much any "Automatic 4wd" system. (As a matter of fact, there's a guy in the "what have you done 1st gen" thread, right now, trying to figure out why his 4wd wont engage... it comes up relatively often). I have seen it happen on the trail a number of times... not just with Toyotas.

CVs aren't spinning... Forget the gas milage nonsense, I don't think you would even honestly be able to tell the difference. But the spider gears are humming in there at highway speed. I'd prefer them to stay still, less wear. But the most important part is the CV boots aren't wearing out. CV boots are a pain in the dick, I'd prefer not having to deal with them any more often than neccesary.

Trail repair... if you break a CV, flip the dial on that side to free and drive to a safer, better spot to fix it. ADD = you have to fix it where it broke, or creep along with the CV clunking around in there (still turning) and risk further damage. It's also easier to swap a manual CV than an ADD. The torque value on the CV nut is pretty high, for one thing.

The manual CV shaft is weaker thing. Yes, the outer shaft on manual CVs is thinner. Yes, that may make it weaker. BUT.... The stub shaft in the ADD diff is weaker than the full shaft in the manual diff tube. A repair, replacing a CV is much easier than trying to replace a stub shaft.


The whole I don't want to get out and flip the hubs thing is dumb (to me)... I'm already out of the truck airing down or airing up anyway.

 

Go new, as listed above. Or, find a junkyard that has a clean manual hub truck, buy the knuckles/hubs, cv axles, and tube. My local yard sold me everything for $150.

With a little machining and fab work, 100 Series Land Cruiser IFS CV axles might be a nice upgrade over the tiny Gen 1 Taco stock items.

 

Aisin + Asian = Aisian

Icwutudidthere

 

LMAO. Honestly just a typo

 

Lol its all about those IG points bruh

 

I'm trying real hard to get my head around this. It started to snow hard so I have to pull over lock in the hubs get back in the truck then I have to engage the ADD just what exactly have I gained? Maybe I would have to replace some parts say in 250K? I have all ready replaced one front wheel bearing the mod wouldn't help that one damn bit!

 

If you are engaging the ADD, you don't have manual hubs to get out and lock in.

 

You have ADD and locking hubs?
Weird

 

You're confusing yourself into thinking you have ADD and manual hubs.

You have one, or the other.

Are you referring to your transfer case?

Only two variants exist for a Tacoma; push button or J shift.

 

I’m understanding what he’s asking. He has ADD and is asking what he will gain by adding just the hubs, and not converting the differential.
Basically the same question that I asked myself. Converting over to the hubs will stop the axles and spider gears from turning. If cv boots aren’t giving you trouble then it’s really not worth the hassle or money in my opinion. Nobody is going to get out and air down and lock the hubs in just because it started snowing really hard. It’s just too easy to pull that short shifter back at road speed and the 4x4 light switches on.

 

It is easy, until it doesn’t work. Manual always works. You can leave manuals locked at the wheels and then shift your transfer case so your crocs don’t get moist in the snow if you want during the winter. If you try to wrap your head around it too much then you probably don’t need or want it.

 

I don’t have crocs, I’m not some bitch like you’re assuming.
I am a professional automotive and equipment technician. I clearly understand the pros and cons of both systems. I happen to have the ADD and decided against the conversion because the cons outweighs the pros in my scenario. I do think it would be really nice to ride down the road without my cv’s and spider gears spinning, that appeals to me yet I decided against it.
If it doesn’t work, I fix it myself.
I’ve actually had an argument with one of my friends because he was ordering a brand new truck. He special ordered a Ford F-150….and paid more for it because he didn’t want power windows. He wanted manual windows “because they never break” “them lectric windrs all time messin up” he said.
In fact I’ve replaced just as many manual window regulators as I have power window regulators and motors. The manual regulators are way harder to change. I know I’m going a little off base here because I’m bringing in Ford on this, but I’ve actually also worked on just as many manual 4x4 engagement trucks as push button while I worked at the Ford dealership. The concern was “no 4x4”. That’s across the spectrum on all makes.
The largest weighing pro that I have is the ability, knowledge, shop, lift, and all tools needed to fix anything myself. I don’t have to pay anyone to wrench on my truck, except for alignments. I don’t have an alignment machine, or a wheel balancer dammit.

 

Thanks zippsub9; appreciated! Here were my thoughts: my truck is 20 years old, 155K miles, I plan on keeping it til it DROPS, so I was looking at ways to make it a "little" less prone to break-downs (moving parts, etc), also, I am certain that I will soon have to be replacing front wheel bearings, CV/axles, etc., so I figured while I was in there, what-the-hell..... ALL of my former rigs had lock-out hubs, and ADD just seems to make a lot more wear n' tear on the highway (which I am unfortunately on more than trails).

The reason that I wanted to look at a "KIT" was simply to see what parts are required, and what this swap entails, and whether I want to even tackle it or just replace as I go along.....

 

I agree with what you are trying to get at. Just because its manually engaged does not mean it wont break.. Like I said before, I think the factory system is good for 99% of people like us who actually use our trucks. Just gotta keep those actuators dry. I can see the possible advantage of not spinning CVs all the time to reduce boot wear, but if thats the case maybe you should have less lift haha

Which reminds me I need to run new ADD & diff breather lines

 

The cv axles not being put together allow him to make another thread about cv joint boots

 

So I can't find the thread but you mentioned having both add and manual locking hubs. So there was no issue just install hubs and your good to go? I have new manual locking hubs and gaskets and want piece of mind if I were to break a cv that I can limp out safer off road. Am I correct and this will work as stated? How do you like your set up?