Long Travel BS Thread

The next logical (whatever that means) stage is probably going to be a compact truggy that I can easily haul with the Tacoma. I love my Tacoma and it’s a blast to drive, especially with LT, but I want to wheel with impunity. If the taco rolls one good time it’s toast.

 

Oh it's a blast wheeling like that! I was somewhat reserved with the taco not any more

When you're air born and slam the A-pillar into a tree and stay in the throttle ending up 90* to the way the trail goes and have to jockey around to not fall down a ditch. It's fun as hell. I'm at the point where I want to flop and take a tumble just to know where the limits are and what it feels like.

 

It's slim pickings to a certain extent for beadlocks with minimal offset, especially on the used market.

 

@snowsk8air2 where do you tie down to in the front? Is that to the LCA?

 

I’m getting a little more carefree in the truck, but it’ll never be what I want for that rush. I know a truggy will never be like motocross or single track (maybe a bouncer would ), but damn I just don’t want to worry about pulling in a mirror every time I get close to something. Feel like I’m on eggshells. I can enjoy calculated and slow, but it’s annoying worrying about breaking everything.

 

Mirrors are cheap. Calculated and slow only works if it's worth the obstacle. I wouldn't go full on bouncer. Get something in the middle there decent power and you can get good flex and crawl speed too. Bouncers are limited to the types of trails they can do just because of the eng and trans set up. They run crazy high stalls and rev to the moon to go anywhere. It's fun as hell don't get me wrong but I don't want a true crawler or true bouncer there's a happy medium and you'll get a hell of a good rig out of it. Other thing is WB bouncers tend to be on the longer side with 118" being the shorter ones. Guys like Timmay are up at 127" they are meant to climb steep ass hills. I'd want my WB max at 118" but keep it closer to 112-115

 

I am looking for the tie rod extensions, would anyone know who is selling currently. Google search doesn't show much. Thank you.

 

Yeah the front are wrapped around the lca and rear around the axle. I trusted @DMCtacoma with this technique as it’s how he’s tied down all of his trucks/ race trucks for 15+ years. It has seemed extremely solid the few times I’ve towed. Though I am new to towing such a large toy, so I have been stopping at the end of my neighborhood each time to give all the straps another good tug. Works out that there’s a fuel station about 5 miles from my house so I just fill up on our way out and give the straps a quick double check.

 

I bought my trailer super cheap (roughly 1k) but it needed tires and a wood deck and bearings. I later added drive over fenders and although I’m well under what it would cost new, it’s a lot of work. I was able to do it how I wanted it though. I may be selling mine here soon though to buy an enclosed car hauler.

 

I strapped mine like that on my way from vegas to moab, when i got to moab the straps were loose. I now go lower by the ball joint and dont have issues.

 

had to make drive over fenders for my buddies trailer that i've been borrowing the last two years...since i ran over his fenders back when i was +2...now with 3.5 and 12.5's the fenders where necessary. But i'm gonna buy a 30' gooseneck and be done with it for a trailer....lol. but i also plan on throwing a 10 foot camper on the front so it will be my crawler hauler as i guess is the name people have been calling them....sucks that goosnecks are so damn expensive though...gonna be like 12-14k for one.

 

Quick Question to anyone whos ditched the ABS pump. When running lines from the bmc to the tee to left and right do you use -4 an then split down to -3 or does it not really matter? was originally planning on just running -3 and teeing it in the engine bay for front left and right and then running the rear port to a proportioning valve and hydro ebrake than running it back to the rear axle and teeing on the axle for left and right.

 

Hit up Harry from JD Fab he usually has some.

 

Good to know. I’ve only done a few tows so far and like I said am pretty nervous of such a large load still so I do plan on checking things periodically. I’ll definitely be keeping an eye out on future hauls but so far so good

 

Do you do yours in this pocket here? Sorry for 20 questions. I’m not new to towing things but am fairly new to securing a vehicle.

I could see this way being better if the straps are angled outwards, like yours are. I could also see near the LBJ preferable if the straps are straight forward.

 

I would not tie it down there. The suspension is still moving tugging and pulling on the strap. I do see that there is no room for a strap on the outer uniball area to tie to which is ideal...doesn't move there. You want the suspension to move and not tug and pull on the straps, that's when they come loose and fail.

On the race truck we had a fixed set of tie downs on the front, drive up, tie them on the back up to take out the slack, then pull down all with the rear. On my class 9 I cross tie down front to rear with 2 straps on both sides. The cross strapping pulls itself together like cross bracing.

 

This is at full droop so there should be room at the lower uniball once it's on its own weight. I'll have to see once this pile of shit is fixed. Other than that, only thing I can think of is a tire net or a strap going through a hole in my wheel, like this.

 

Looking at pics in reviews, it's unsettling how many people are using them as tire nets

 

Call Wilwood and talk to them if you are truly unsure.

I have all my brake parts from Wilwood waiting to go in. New Master, brake pedal and lines. Ran everything 3/16 or -3. RUnning larger loses line pressure and gives you a dead pedal.

 

I typically use that pocket for my front tie down.