What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

@YotaGangYotaGang

Nice UCA

@turbodb I'm with you on the 17's
My brother has like 3 sets of tires all that came off brand new jeeps.
I almost got 17's just a for constant supply of cheap tires haha.

I do think there are still plenty of good tires out there for 16's though. I've been putting my new Cooper S/T MAXX's to the test this week. I've been pretty damn happy.



235/85-16

 

I mean, I really like my 16s as well for the the "more rubber," and if there were an equal number of tires for each, I'd go with the 16s every time. It just feels like there are very few tire choices out there for them, and it seems to me (for what I do) that I'd still have enough sidewall with 17s (esp if I could get C-load cushiness). But who knows - maybe if I had 17s, I'd be yearning for 16s. That's how it's suppossed to go, right?

Yeah, I wouldn't say there's a great selection of 16s in the 33-34-35 range, but I really like the Maxx's as well - I'm nearly through my second set and I'm pretty sure I'll get them again. They haven't ever let me down on the dirt, and they are significantly nicer on pavement (quieter, better behaved, and more balanced) than my previous favorite tire, the Duratrac (which, I admit, is amazing in snow and slightly better in mud).

I just wish I could get them in a 33x10.5" (equivalent) C-load. (Or 34-35x10.5 C-load, hahaha.)

 

I’m thinking of selling it. And putting money towards a nice Coilover kit and rear lift. My suspension is shot.

 

There is a healthy amount of 315s in 16s. But tall skinny tires, 17s have 16s beat for sure. That and there are actually Load C options in 17s now which isn't a thing really in 16s above 31/32'' tires.

So really, Dan just needs to go to 35s and he'll have more options

 

For me it’s the load rating, it’s a lot easier to find a C or SL load 285/70r17 than it is a 285/75r16. And from what I have seen C/SL load 17s are cheaper than E load 16s.
Granted the cost of new wheels makes it not worth it unless you just really want a lighter load tire

 

35s ftw

I think a skinny tire is anything less than 11'' wide Id guess as "most" skinnies out there are 10-10.5'' wide for a 33/34'' size. But Up for interpretation I'm sure.

Idk man. It's a big difference C to E. Probably been so long you haven't felt it. But man, even just my DD with C's is noticeable. Frank's C's were the best...but then again 15'' wheels are the best.

That's right I said. 15" wheels bitches! Screw your fancy big brakes!

(please ignore the fact that I have tundra brakes and 17s on one of the trucks, thanks )

 

Got the first video done for the SC300 brake master and booster conversion. Going to bleed it tonight and hopefully, the combination of SC master cylinder and Brembo calipers will pay some dividends.
https://youtu.be/MrgAVTILdv8

 

I'd like a 35x10.5 R16.

I don't want to run a wide tire for mud, rubbing, traction, weight, and mpg reasons. In that order.

This. Well, the tall/skinny, and your follow-on post of 10-10.5 being skinny.

Not so much the bit on the 35s. Except, also the point about the 35s.

 

Wider fenders = ugly
Rubbing = I have 33s
Traction = you clearly don't understand how tires work
Weight = 10-15lbs unsprung per corner is *a lot*
Mpgs = It's a mindset that allows me to not work anymore . You'll note it was still last on the list.

 

Yea buddy!

 

Unsprung and rotating.

 

*has 98-00 front end*

There a quote about rocks and glass houses but I forget how it goes.

 

The contact pattern of a 33x10.5 is the same almost as a 33x12.5. the difference is really just the shape of the contact pattern. You get a rectangle with both but on the 10?5 the long edge runs parallel to the truck frame and short edge is the leading edge.

12.5 is opposite, long edge is leading.

Traction wise, they are the "same". But respond different to different situations is all.

Seeing as you've never run a tire wider than 10.5 I'm not sure you can really make a claim here. They are not worse. They are different though. In a lot of situations you'd probably prefer them. In others you won't.

So really..were is the damn size morphing tires at already? Hahaha

 

Touche. Damn, that was a good one. I do wish a little bit that it was worth it to swap to 95-97. I've mostly covered up the front though with the bumper, winch solenoid, and lights, so I'm good with it. Hahahaha.

I think you're confusing things here, perhaps on purpose, because this is the internet. You've listed three types of vehicles that have a power-to-weight ratio, and a usage profile that is nothing like anything we do in our trucks. Those vehicles - every last one of them - need enormous amounts of friction in order to function. And in ways that our trucks explicitly don't.

You know as well as the next guy - since we've discussed it on several trips - that narrow tires give better traction in the majority of the conditions that I find myself in - which is to say, not mudding and not fluffy snow. There are numerous articles, which I'm sure you've also read.

Off-roading Tires, Wide Or Narrow,which Are Better? - Team-BHP
Narrow or Wide Tires? Which is Better? | TrailBuilt Off-Road (trailbuiltoffroad.com)
Expeditions West: Tire Selection for Expedition Travel (archive.org)
The SKINNY on skinny tires | Tacoma World

But of course, we live in a world of "who can say the most outrageous thing, whether it's true or not," and we've both engaged in that as you started giving me shit for my opinion, so... I'll just right back at you.

OK. (?) I didn't mention anything about your need to work - only how my overall mindset of caring about (all sorts of) side effects (to all sorts of decisions), affects my own.

I still don't follow then. I want less weight; I think less rubber generally means less weight.

I dunno, don't we all make claims about all kinds of things we've never done? Ben claimed he's going to have to work for the next 30 years. We all know that at the rate he picks up vehicles, it's at least 40.

I agree wider tires can be nicer for some things. Wider tires probably do give a nicer (softer) ride in a lot of situations since you have a larger air volume that can cushion you from the road surface. Larger diameter tires (at any given width) can also give some of that cushion. And surely the most cushiony would be a C-load 35 on 15s (but I think you already mentioned a mythical vehicle with that config ). I wonder if the right answer to the whole cushy+traction situation is relatively aired-up, relatively skinnies, and perfectly tuned suspension. I mean, that's theoretically the right thing, for a lot of what we do, anyway.


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OK, back to productive conversation.

Some of you may recall that I changed my rack (in the rain) a few days ago. Took it in for an alignment and the tech said that one of the misalignment cams is stripped, so can't be adjusted. Which means I need to rip into it all again, because it's the left (driver) rear cam; and that one only comes out when the rack is unbolted. Lovely times.

Also, it's been 5 business days since I've heard from FROR/Diamond. So still no housing ordered, though Brian knows exactly what I want, and I've emailed every other day to try to get things moving again.

 

Bummer.

I've always wondered about putting those rear cams in backwards, but never have. Don't see why it would be a problem.

Regardless, depending on what's stripped you shouldn't have to pull the rack. It's the back cam with the sleeve that's the problem. The nut is easy enough, and I think you can pull the bolt out too with the rack in place.

 

Finally got my truck all back together, rear wheel bearings look good now, diff looks good, bled the brakes, cleaned the maf, oil change


anddddd i snapped a front wheel stud

 

At least you can drive without a stud and it's a 10min change when you get a new stud

 

Yeah, I'll find out when I dig into it Friday. Had too much other stuff planned today and tomorrow to even investigate it. If it's the nut, that'd be awesome. For some reason, I assumed it was the cam on the sleeve (back side). I may look into installing it backwards, because as you suggest, it seems like it should be totally fine.

Might also be able to get the cam warrantied - it is brand new (as of June) when I replaced all the bushings. (Small wins, if I can. Hahahaha.)

 

Just get an adjustable upper and never worry about the cams again!

 

I mean, I've got SPCs, so... but the guys at Firestone like to use the lowers, and I don't mind as long as they work - plus it allows me to keep the uppers pushed forward a bit to reduce rubbing.