Secondary Air Pump ??

I did this conversion on mine last Sunday. I expected the foam to be brittle, but mine still looked new. 2015 with 75k miles. As mentioned, very easy. I used this:

$20 Uni Filter UP-107 1" Clamp-On Breather

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJOTSA?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

 

This

I replaced the foam filter with a Unifilter a while ago and my pump failed last year.
The valve failed and was stuck open.
Covered by the TSB.
I changed back to the crappy foam filter when the truck was serviced....just in case.
They installed a new crappy foam filter as part of the kit.
Unifilter went back on when I got home

 

Will the HP tuner simulate a Secondary Air monitor running and passing? If the monitors aren't allowed to run it'll show up on a scan

 

To date the 2012s are the only ones that Toyota is replacing. Is there any word on why 2012s and not 2013-15? If so, are we to be included at some point under the pump TSB?

 

It's my understanding that the later air pumps will purge the moisture out by turning on for a quick second on shutdown. That way the moisture isn't hanging around in the system overnight and causing corrosion. 2015 does it, not sure about 13-14.

 

Interesting, my 2013 makes a wheezing sound upon shut off, I figure this is what you’re talking about, but my father’s 2012 does as well.

 

Thanks for the part, I ordered one

 

Search YouTube for TacomaHolic smog pump mod. Be careful of the Diameter of the uni filter you order. There are a few links for Amazon filter offerings. The K&N there does not have a flange for a clamp so you would need to place a zip tie stop around the barrel to set the depth of the filter to keep it from accidentally closing off the available flow.

$20 Uni Filter UP-107 1" Clamp-On Breather

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJOTSA

I should add that my OEM filter was somewhat worn but was like in 80% condition. As I understand it, the fear is the possible damage that might occur if the filter medium were to be sucked back into the engine etc.

 

I can't definitively say yes or no. But I would assume the answer would be yes that it simulates it whether or not it is installed. The reason I say that is when I installed the tune the system still functions as normal. Later when I got around to removing the system there were no changes in start-up, driving characteristics, fuel economy or anything noticeable except the annoying noises were no longer there. Again, this is not gospel. @nd4spdbh could probably answer that better as he has worked a lot with the HPTuner tuning development from the start.

 

Yep...'13+ rigs have an air dump that dries the reed valves off when the ignition is shutoff.

BTW....6.5 years old and my foam filter is still pliable and looks new

 

Mine does this sound as well. Have only had the truck for a couple months. Is this thing that culprit?

 

I believe so and it’s normal for our trucks, part of the purging moisture process. I was just wondering why the 12s qualify for a secondary air pump replacement and not 13-15. My father’s 12 purges same as my 13.

 

Modifications made for off-road use to bypass the system will show in a scan. However, most states allow for one NOT READY code in 2002 and later vehicles. In 2001 prior OBD equipped equipped most are allowed two NOT READY codes. Can’t speak the specifics of the Hewitt system but HPT tune NOT complete and successful READY code for Secondary Air Injection. You can still tune out the system for full deletion and retain all driveability to avoid limp mode and avoid a CEL or MIL lights.

 

I can confirm that the '14 also does it.
That said, I still got a carbon-clogged reed valve and it sent me into limp mode way out in the middle of nowhere with low miles on my truck.

 

The system will run after shut down, that is normal and annoying. It will also run longer on start-up the colder it is. In my case when it's below 0F it will run for 2-3 times longer. Basically it is trying to add more oxygen to the exhaust to make the cats warm up faster to burn the extra fuel that is required on cold start so it is more emissions friendly.

 

That's good to know!! Not that it's an issue for me but for future reference. It makes sense with how you explain it. Now I want to hook up a scan tool to see what it shows, not that I'm doubting you, I just have an inquisitive mind.

 

Turning CEL and MIL is fairly elementary for most tuning applications but READY codes are where are easily read with just about any scan tool and require a full vehicle DRIVE cycle (specified different per each manufacturer) to complete in order to reset each and all of these READY codes once a malfunction is fixed or corrected. This prevented folks from pulling up the gas station, unhooking a battery then getting there vehicle inspected or just shutting off lights. Cats, Secondary Air Injection, Fuel Tank Purge System, Upstream O2 Sensors are just some of the READY code categories. I believe there are eight total.

 

My understanding is that most tuners can stop the CEL from coming on by removing the code but the system won't be able to complete and show ready.
This is where our GenII bypass kits are a better solution. They emulate the system so the ECM thinks the system is still there and running like it is supposed to.
No messing around in the ECM and it will actually let the monitor run and show complete even if you were to take the air pumps off and toss them in the trash.

https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-2-plug-play/

 

My 13 does this. I’ve had the uni mod for years. On my 2nd uni filter. A few years ago we had brutal wildfire ash & that was when I just bought another & kept the old one as a back up.

Save the oem foam filter & the cap. If it ever fails, put them back on before taking it to a dealer when you ask them to pay for it. ESP if you have a 2012.

First 2 years I drove with the plastic lid off but I put it back on.

 

New 2013 owner here. I checked my filter before buying the truck to see the condition; it wasn't brittle at all. Mine makes the purging sound on start up and shut down. I've considered the uni-mod just as an extra precaution, is it necessary to do this on the "updated" pump? I know it doesn't cost much to do.