Meso V5 turn signals are out!!!!

Email MESO for them.

 

The pigtails allow you to use the extra plugs on your V2 Puddle Pods harness to power the DRL on the V5 mirror turn signals without any additional cutting or splicing. Meso will send them to you if you open a ticket on their website and ask for them (I also missed the Meso post on this forum that said to just ask for them in the comments of your V5 Turn Signal order if you happened to already have V2 Puddle Pods).

The extra plug on that V2 puddle pod harness WILL power your DRLs, but they won't work the same as the DRLs in your headlights. It brings an Ignition and an Illumination circuit into the mirror, so if you use it as already wired, the bright part of the V5 DRL will be illuminated whenever the ignition is turned on, and it will switch to a dim DRL as soon as your interior switches/dash lights are illuminated (whenever you're on the "park" setting or higher on the headlight stalk).

I am in the same boat as you, with V2 puddle pods already installed and not really wanting to go through the door boot again if I don't have to. I plan to use the V2 puddle harness to power the DRLs, but I want them to mirror the functionality of the headlight switch (DRL to be "off" when the headlights are all the way off, then "bright" when switched to the DRL setting, then "dim" with all other settings). So, I'm going to track down the "ignition" wire in that puddle harness and convert it to a DRL signal instead of an ignition signal. Basically, I'll wire up the PnP harness to the headlights and pull the wire through the firewall, then pull it up to the a-pillar (or behind the dash, whatever is easier to get to) and cut the wire on the puddle harness and splice in the wire coming from the headlights.

I'll take a few photos and get them posted up in this thread once I can allocate some time for the install.

 

Sorry for the delay.
There is no "right or wrong" way to really hook up the V5's. Just comes down to personal preference and how you want to turn on/activate the DRLs.

Here are a few possible ways to connect:

1)USE THE "PLUG N PLAY" Harness that Taps behind the headlight
This will make the V5 DRL's act and be controlled just like the DRL's in the headlights. Probably the most difficult to wire as you have to run the included DRL extensions though the door boot, into the cab, and into the engine bay.

2)TAP CONTROL WIRES IN DOOR
This is similar to the install guide that my "limited edition" switchbacks used. Tapping off the 2 wires from the switch control in the door is probably the easiest as it just requires the door panel to be removed. The DRL's will only turn on when the ignition is switched on, and DIM when the parking lights are on. You won't be able to turn them off from the steering column stalk switch.

3)PREWIRED PUDDLE CONNECTOR
If you installed puddle pods, you might have noticed there is an extra pigtail left in the door. This was premeditated when I designed the puddle kit. The extra/unused plug was made for the V5's. It is essentially tapping the same circuits as #2 above^ (IGNITION AND PARKING LIGHTS) but they are tapped from the in cab A pillar harness.
(these pigtails are not included with V5's but if you want a set just let us know and we can send some out)

4)MANUAL CONTROL- TOGGLE/SWITCHPRO/ETC
Some people want to have full control of the lights and wire them to a switch control of their choice. For this install, jsut use the 2 extension wires inluded in the kit and run them into the cab and hook to a +12V of your choice. Keep in mind you will NOT need to ground anything. GROUND is already hooked up in the mirror connector. You will be left with WHITE AND RED. Which are BOTH +12V (just bright or dim)

5) RELAY CONTROLLED
As @caribe makaira has posted a plethora of info and schematics there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. This will give you some flexibilty if you wanted to control them from the factory DRL switch without having to go into the engine bay. Use at your own risk, just make sure you are comfortable with relay wiring.

Hope this answers some questions!

 

@MESO very helpful! Thanks!

Just emailed in for the pigtails!

 

Dang... my replacement for V5 drivers side came in today, the DRL's work but 3 of the ambers are out on it also.

 

I got my replacement with the same three out as well. Warranty claim #2 sent and we wait...

 

That makes me really wanna try the turn signals out before even taking apart my mirrors/doors...

 

Yeah it may be a good idea, on the original defective drivers side V5 I had both DRL and Amber leds dead. This replacement had all the DRLs working but I guess the Amber turns weren’t tested to make sure those all work before they left. It’s no big deal I sent another warranty ticket, I’m sure this 3rd one will work great.

 

I tested mine and still decided to run the wires. Why put that off when you can get the worst part done and over with?

 

I haven't decided how I'm gonna connect the turn signal's DRLs just yet.

 

For those who have used the control wires in the door to power the DRLs, what size T Tap do you need?

 

I think it was 18-22 AWG

It's been years but those should work

 

Wire Connectors - TYUMEN 12pcs 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFZ8CBV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These worked for me.

 

Thanks! Just ordered these

 

Ordered them, too!

 

My drivers replacement is out for delivery today

 

Finally got mine installed today. For those who have V2 puddle pods but want the DRLs to mimic the headlight functionality (instead of always being on when the ignition is on), you can simply "convert" the ignition signal within your puddle pod harness to a DRL signal instead.

Start by using any one of the available headlight t-tap harnesses that grab the DRL signal from the headlight plug (you can use the Meso one that is available with the V5s. I used the one that @daveeasa makes). Connect that between the headlight plug and then pull the wires up through the firewall and into the cab. You really only need the "red" wire, which feeds the "bright" portion of the DRL signal, because the puddle harness already has the "white" (illumination, or "dim") circuit built into it. However, I pulled both of the wires from the headlight tap through the firewall and just capped the white one off, because you never know when you'll need another illumination circuit inside the cab.

Then, you need to access the puddle pod harness right before the "Y" connector that splits off the two separate runs to each door. If you have the puddle pod switch, you can do this within the short plug/harness that connects to the "Y" connector and runs off toward the switch. Otherwise, you'll need to tap into the portion of the puddle harness that comes down from the plug in the a-pillar. The white wire within the puddle harness is the circuit from the ignition, and this is the one that you need to intercept and "convert." Simply cut the white wire and connect the red wire from your headlight tap to the side that feeds into the "Y" splitter. Don't forget to cap off the other side of the white wire that you just cut, because it's a live "ignition" circuit, and you don't want it to ground out against something metal and blow a fuse.

And just like that that, you can use the wires that are already inside your mirrors (that you ran when you installed your puddle pods), because those wires now bring the correct DRL signal into the mirrors instead of an ignition signal. Sorry for the poor quality photos, but here's the wire that you tap into (don't mind all the other wires in the background, as I was wiring up some other projects at the same time):

Here you can see the white wire that I cut (sorry the focus is so bad):


Here you can see how I connected the red wire from the headlight to it, and you can see the other side of the white wire capped off with a good deal of electrical tape. I just used a crimp-style butt connector, and secured/protected it with some heat shrink tubing:

 

You should've/could've followed post #203. No running wires to n fro the engine n cab.

 

I thought about going that direction, but I was already pulling a few other wires through my firewall (for some roof lighting) and I had the t-harness harness sitting on my desk from @daveeasa. I didn't have a spare relay lying around, and this method only required one butt connector and some heat shrink tubing. I'm just happy that the DRLs aren't "on" all the time, and that I didn't have to pull new wires through the door boots!

 

Asking for a friend:
Average time to get your V5 replacement for the 3 white LED's being out after you submitted your ticket?