Long Travel BS Thread

Yes that’s right where I run mine

 

That's scary.

 

Yeah, I don’t like it. But the straps themselves seem nice. I think up front I’ll just run it through my wheel like I showed earlier. Should be enough room but we’ll see.

 

We have used the wheel through approach for my bosses track cars and it is much easier than trying to get underneath to a good anchor point. We traditionally do 2 straight straps and 2 crossed and have had no issues with car shifting or straps coming loose.

 

That's what I was thinking. Easy and redundant.

 

On my sandrail I use the lower control arms, and cross them. Really anywhere thats solid enough to support the weight of the truck, and preferably is unsprung, should work, including through the wheels.

 

I’m getting excited. Talked to Riley at Locked last week and he said I’ve got about 3 weeks for my 8” C/Os.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUtDZf7vUQ4/

 

Be careful going through the wheel, if your beadlock rings are rock rashed they will eat through the strap. Ive thrown away a few straps because of this.

 

That’s a good point, thanks. Mine are nice and fucked up. LCA it is.

 

I tie them down there every time... works best for the taco and then around the axle in the rear

 

yup same around the inside of the lca and never had an issue and I’ve towed it about 4000 miles that way.

 

What are you guys doing for wheel well liners? Took my rig for my maiden voyage this weekend with 4" fiberglass and god the fenders specifically but bedsides too were full of at least a wheelbarrow of mud. I saw the flex liner's but wondering if anyone is making their own.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...el-picture-extravaganza.439830/#post-12771628

 

Hey anyone who’s caged your truck what have you done for cab mounts? Solid? Poly? Doing a cage in January and this is the last thing I’m not sure on.

 

Solid would be ideal but you’d have to make them or have them made. My poly ones were less than 2 years old and still very hard so I just left them. Cab gets welded to the cage in several spots and then the cage is welded to the frame so it should keep everything solid. Haven’t noticed any issues yet with the poly ones

 

Update on my rough riding truck. I posted about it a week or so ago and wanted to revalve. Got some spring advise and valve advise and am close to ordering parts but I figured I’d stop here first.

So first off I pulled my front bypasses and removed my extra leaf. Front rides a lot better same with the rear. I still have a bunch of uptravel. I think before I had an issue with a RTT and gear it was sagging a bit. But that good for now.

I talked to downsouth and they don’t keep record of what they sell. So i have to pull things apart and measure shims. That’s where I am now.

Rear shocks are 15/10 (found in an email)
Front bypasses are
Compression: 0.018”
Rebound: 0.010”

Im guessing that’s 18/10?

The front coil overs I don’t know so I’ll just going to have to wing those. Downsouth said they can just suggest something a bit softer compression wise compared to what they put in a set of new coil overs.

With that said I’m open to suggestions on shims.

 

never thought to ask you this but did they know you were running bypasses when you ordered your CO’s ?

 

Nope. I ordered my coil overs separate from my LT kit. Got the kit from dirt king and the coil overs from downsouth. Had it all together then dirt king came out out with their bypass kit some months later and I picked that up. Same method parts from DK shocks from DS.

Good question though. I should have included that.

 

What he's getting at is the COs were valved for not having Bypasses then you added them so they are not working together like they should. Valving on a CO where there is a bypass is completely different.

 

Exactly. That’s why I said I should have included that bit from the beginning. My response might have been a bit long because I wanted to explain the timeline better.