3rz Swap-No Spark, No Start

This may be a little long winded here but i'll try to give all the info I can. I am at my wits end with this swap project and do not know what my next steps need to be.

Truck is an '84 ext cab SR5, 5 spd, 22r. I bought a '95 3rz/5 spd/4x4 with "everything" needed to do a swap, that someone else had pulled from a wrecked truck. I've been working on this off and on for a couple years now. The last thing I did was wiring, and as far as I can figure it should be more than done enough to start.

I'm not getting spark and have no idea why. Trouble shooting I've done so far:
-All electrical works as it should with key on
-Truck cranks fine.
-COR is working, and I believe injectors are firing (gas on plugs).
-Good compression on all cylinders.
-New cap, rotor, coil, plugs, and wires.
-No camshaft sensor ('95)

Things I'm unsure of or problems I'm having:
-CEL comes on and stays on in cluster. I do expect codes though cause I did and EGR delete, and it has no EVAP stuff. (EVAP stuff missing)
-Didn't have an ODB2 port but I wired one in according to FSM. Scanner will not connect to truck.
-My voltmeter will not read high Ohm resistances (1000+) Any sensors that have higher resistances I have no idea if they are good or not, like the Crank sensor.

I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff, but at this point I don't know where to go. I dont know if I have a wiring issue or maybe the ECM is messed up? I just don't want to start throwing money at it blindly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Any specific grounds that would be directly related to not getting spark? I've double, triple checked grounds. I've removed paint under chassis grounds etc.

 

Does anyone know what inputs the ECM needs to see to start? I dont know if its the ECM thats missing something or if its a mechanical/wiring issue?

 

Does the check engine light come on with the ignition switch in run??

Just how did you do the 4th ECM plug??

There is no done enough to start explain what you did not finish??

Just what did your engine come out of? The only way to know the ECM ports.

 

Igniter or module, maybe

 

Wow that must have been the last year for only 3 Plugs by 1996 they were using 4 ECM plugs

Must have been the change over using ECM`s they already contracted for.

It only takes one wire wrong to get very frustrated.

I bought two swaps with the wiring messed up very cheap A very long tedious process.

If you can`t connect to the OBII system corroded Plugs loose fit at the plugs. A slight wiring misshap.

The ECM ground can be quite finicky I have at times needed to run it direct to the battery ground

Good luck.

 

So any idea what wires/grounds would cause a no spark situation? When everything else up to that point in the ignition/start cycle is working as it should?

I cant wrap my head around that.

 

Start with the battery to body ground terminal.
Proceed to Engine to body ground.
Proceed to igniter grounding terminal, on my truck it is located passenger side front engine.

With a fine toothed comb I would look carefully at everything you reconnected.
I would try to repair the OBDII connection.

 

Quoted from a previous poster
"The ECM ground can be quite finicky I have at times needed to run it direct to the battery ground."






Check the ECM ground.
Verify spark and verify fuel.

 

Have you checked the compression ? Are these engines not known for valve problems

Was this a running engine when it was bought ??

A friend had a strange one like this a project over a few years evil rodents built a nest in the intake manifold the engine could not get enough air.

 

ECM ground is good. I dont have spark on any cylinder, hence the no spark title. Fuel is getting into the cylinders, haven't checked fuel pressure yet but i know its there. If it had spark it would do something.

 

This sounds exactly like an older thread I was following a while back, long read but maybe some ideas. If I knew how to link it hear I would but you can find it with this screen shot.

 

Compression is just shy of 140 on all cylinders.

The guy I bought it from said it was running but I had to take his word for it as he had already stripped everything off the donner truck.

I have not had the intake off the truck to fully inspect. But there is nothing that would lead me to believe there is an issue there. And again, air or not, the truck will not start without spark.

 

I believe you are in for a learning experience and trust me it will help you conform to this mentally. Stop, take a break and when you feel ready go and restart.
Start from the very top.
1. Let's look at the ECM. Can you verify all power connections going into the ECM? You have to look at this from the donor vehicle's perspective and not the truck you did the swap into.
2. Can you change it out with another ECM?
3. Is there an inline fuse going to the ECM. Some have an additional power source. I don't know about Toyota's ECMs
4. Are all grounds serviceable and clean?
5. Write down all sensors needed to run the engine and troubleshoot each and every connection.

 

You need the Toyota EWD`s for all the vehicles involved other wise it is pure hell .

The only way is circuit by circuit wire by wire a very tedious process one needs peace and quiet.

Electrical Wiring diagrams.

If you were close I would be more then willing to help Eastern Pa!

Best of luck

 

I have a 3rz engine EWD. I'm 99% sure its the correct one. I've got probably close to 100hrs into the wiring. As far as I can tell everything is how it should be up to the current no spark issue. Trying to figure out why I'm not getting spark.

I wish I was close but I'm clear across the country in WA.

 

The ECM needs to see a correct cam and crank sensor signal before it will send the signal to the igniter to fire the coil, since you say the injectors are firing it's at least getting a signal from one.
Have you verified your igniter (ignition control module) is wired correctly and good?

 

I ordered a new crank sensor, not sure if the current one is bad but I wasn't happy with the ohm readings I was getting. Igniter is the next thing I will be addressing. It should be wired properly as I didn't mess with the original engine harness.