Slash's "Budget" Built Trail Limo and BS, Now with Polls!

Lil bit o' wheeling today at KRRP

 

Today was hoot. Had a blast. Just shows Trail Comms are a must. We'll get that sorted for the next go round.

Also ordered new SPC UCA joints since I suspect mines going out.


Also, forgot to post last weekends upgrades and truck surgery.
Put my wheels on finally, left on the spacers which created some clearance issues so...




Headed over to @Sociopenguin 's 2FE Headquarters to do a little wrenching. Thanks broseph.
Cab mounts turn for some choppage.



Welded. Made a custom plate from some scrap on the driver's side since I went deep on this one. Still ended up stacking welds to fill gaps.



Done. Time to remove some junk.


Last time the sway bar was attached. Cya.


6112s with King 650lb coils


My custom counterweight.


All done.

 

@kasnerd @WormSquirts ditched the sway bar, and took the 62s on their maiden voyage. Performed outstanding. I need to trim the U-bolts. Also rear fenders need the treatment.

 

They are also passenger approved, for anyone with a backseat driver in tow

 

They'd perform more outstandingly with traction devices

 

siiiiick!!! can't wait to get the SUA on my truck! been spending some time working on the '88 4Runner, because we use that for our winter camping surf trips, just sleeping in the back. Actually at the surf camp right now!!!!!

 

this is how the the man, the myth, the legend (Harry) told me how he did mine.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9XrfWrd9IE

use a metal awl or carbide tip to make a sharp line.

body panel saw (hand air saw) for the rough cut

sand down to scribe line, round over/deburr the back.

don't drink any coffee or do smack, you want a steady hand and a lot of patience.

 

I made a very similar tool specifically for the markers I use, and the amount I cut Tacos for 35's, and do pretty much the exact same thing as described. You can also free hand it pretty close by holding the pen steady and sliding the palm of your hand around the edge. Basically using your hand as that tool.

If you're keeping your flares, I find it easiest to remove them (save as many clips as possible by turning them 90 degrees from the inside), then cut the metal, then reinstall the flares, then cut the plastic so they come down about a 1/4" further than the metal.

edit: sorry just now read up a bit further and realized that you already cut your fronts, so you probably already figured it out. but that's how I do it anyway.

 

I tried to get as close to the body line on the top of the flare as I could, then I just measured about where the other lines were and painter's taped it up. This is smart though

I have a compass. I'd happily use that to create a line for the rears lol

 

Next big leg of the build is 4.88 gears and rear locker. It'll probably be a year or so though. Also can't decide between ARB locker or Harrop E-Locker.

 

installed a harrop locker in the front diff when the truck was regeared...broken front shit in 3...2...1...lol

Thought about arb but then would have 2x to buy...ARB are good till they leak but that's not a bad fix. Elocker are great but can be fickle. 6 keys one way, half a dozen midget hookers the other...wait what we are talking about?

 

A year?

Jesus, you are really raising the bar on how much we need to save, huh?

I have been pushing for re-gearing, though

 

I'm thinking of only doing a rear locker at this point in time. Though the thought of 2 has crossed my mind. It's ~$3k before returning my stock 3rd and clamshell to ECGS for the core back for 4.88s front and rear and a rear locker ARB vs Harrop was a difference of like $150. I got my Air via a VIAIR 400P that I need to rearrange the engine bay and mount and plumb in that could run both a front and rear ARB (has a max of 150PSI IIRC) and has auto-shutoff. I was thinking about putting a 1 or 2 gallon tank under the bed for running air tools or faster air ups.

 

I mean that's pretty far out. I think we should be able to get your stuff before the end of 2022. At least I pray we do. I really don't want to wait for your medical needs any longer.

 

I have no idea, but I'm fuckin' in.

 

My main concern is 22 being a big medical year, but I told you, if you save up a decent portion with the OT you've been working it's cool. Idk what shops around here would install re-gearing expect for (Redacted) Motors.

As far as the diff shit goes, I'm out of my depth lol

 

I wouldn't trust them to install a windshield wiper blade.

Hard Knox Offroad in Platte City did one of my groomsmen's T4R. They are trying to sort of specialize in Toyota 4x4 stuff I think. He says he's happy with their work.

 

No no no. ECGS does all the legwork for you. You pay the ~$3k and they build you new clamshell and new third member, then when you receive them, they just bolt in where the existing clamshell (front differential) and the existing 3rd member (rear differential) Then you fill em up with break in lube, which I would opt to be shipped with, run em for a couple hundred miles to break them in, then you drain and refill. Oh and I'd have to plumb the Air locker(s) or run the wiring for the e-locker(s). I'm not confident in myself to self set backlash and all that, so I'd rather have ECGS take care of the guess work. Once new is installed, you print your labels and return the stock stuff to them and get your ~$400 core charge returned.

 

Oh, okay

*1 minute of mild angina later*

That's actually not that bad!