Long Travel BS Thread

If this helps at all.
My CO’s are valved at 10/10
My bypasses are at 18/12
And they feel like butter in the whoops.
My rear shocks are 16 inch triples valved at 15/8

 

I don't remember if we covered this but what is the tube layout of the front bypasses?

Truck looks good in your video. You figure out the rear shocks?

 

I just set them to what @snowsk8air2 said his were at and cranked in a little more on the fronts. That section of whoops/jumps? in that video was all that was in the area we were in. This was a shooting trip more than tuning. I need to go back to JV to see how it really is since I used a certain area by Anderson lake bed for my baseline butt dyno.
But so far it feels pretty damn good. I’m actually pretty floored by how good it is. It’s not a white knuckle drive that I’m going to blow up my front end with way I drove my old setup. It just eats stuff up. I’ve had 4 different friends drive it and no one hasn’t got out without a massive smile and a holy shit.

https://youtu.be/xjQ9ftUnzkk

 

It’s been a while since I’ve talked about this sort of thing and can’t remember the terminology of the layout so here’s a pic of the front and rear.

 

How's that feel generally? Like on road? Light bumps n that jazz?

 

It’s fine on road. It’s not stiff or bone jarring at all.

 

those are staggered which are different from @Airdog

the bump zone will be similar with equal valving but the other comp zones will not be.

 

Ah that’s good to know. I was worried his was fine and mine isn’t so I might not be simple valving to help.

 

So, wanted to post this up in here to see what the general consensus is.

Tore into a set of King bypasses with staggered layout. King offers a check valve with a hole in it to create additional bleed within that zone. I’m assuming this is mainly for small chop/washboard scenarios.

This valve is located in the long comp tube which makes sense as that is the largest zone and where the piston should sit at ride height.

What I did notice however, is that when I manually compress the shock, it feels like the secondary zone has less damping than the long comp zone. I.E, the shock is firm at full compression almost gets softer when you transition to what I’m assuming is the second zone, and then ramps back up in the bump zone.

Anyone experience this? Thoughts? What am I missing here.

 

Doesn't that orifice close when the check gets pushed into the adjuster? Mine has those too but can't recall exactly how it's constructed and operates in relation to the adjuster.

 

That’s an excellent question. Id imagine so being the adjuster has a rubber bump pad on the bottom in which I’m assuming is an attempt to dampen the noice when the two make contact.

 

Thanks for all the trailer advice earlier from everyone. I bought a 8.5' wide this morning with drive-over fenders.

 

just me or does king seem to love putting bleed holes in stuff. I feel like that's the only time i see free bleeds mentioned is guys tuning kings

 

Gentlemen,

Been a bit since I have been here, couldnt watch all the great stuff you guys were doing anymore. The below is my effort to avoid Glass and was 100% done by a friend. Cant claim anything more than an idea he took to action. Issue originally was my +2 didnt have fender coverage resulting in muddy windshield springs and open tire rock throwing (even broke my side mirror throwing one up off the rear). 2nd issue was I hadnt done the fender cut yet to get that little bit extra clearance for travel and maybe chains. Ed pulled it off with mockup, CNC cut to match mockup pieces and then tig weld, mount and finish. I would estimate the final extra width is ~1.5-2" of flare and we moved up ~2-2.5" with the fender trim and ABS liners. Can't claim any bit of the work, but I'm happy with it and thats what counts and I think Ed is happy with it. Still havent' gotten the bill yet though........

Ed took and sent all the photos; I'm still overseas working.

 

For those running tundra rack and heimed tie rods, or even just heimed tie rods, what’re you doing for boots? The bolt on the inner clevis keeps popping the boot off of the rack, even with a hose clamp holding it on pretty tight. Need something a larger diameter but not sure what.

 

I don't have a tundra rack, but I use shock boots over my heimed tie rod ends/clevis. They stretch so it definitely helps get it over that bolt.

 

Thanks, I’ll try that next. I have some bicycle tire inner tube arriving tomorrow and if that doesn’t work out I’ll try some shock boots.

 

That sounds pretty thin and might tear easily.

 

Yeah probably, I don’t have high hopes. But it’s cheap so it’s worth trying at least.

 

Anyone got any recommendations for a ubolt flip kit for tundra axle for SUA