Leer Bolts - Placement/Torque

Hi All

I picked up a used Leer 100XR For my 2017 Tacoma - plan is to put the tent on it in the summer with a Sherpa Equipment Rack. Already have bed stiffeners installed from my previous setup.

I'm struggling to figure out the mounting bolts and how they should properly be placed and torqued. Online I'm seeing photos of Leer bolts that seem to perfectly fall flat with the washer.
When I tighten mine down, it seems only the edge of bolt head (on the outward size) is catching the washer. Can any confirm if the full head of the washer is supposed to sit flat on the washer?

I've also heard of the shell shifting... Could one not flip the bolt so the threads come up through the fiberglass and add a nyloc on top? I can't fit the nyloc with the bolt going downwards as it contacts the utility rail.

Finally, any torque specs for these thing once (or if) I can get it right?
Thanks

 

This is from a 100R, but it should be the same mount...

 

All 4 mount points on my Leer 100R have gapped heads - even with a decent amount of torque

^ His are sitting nice and flush!

 

Yeah mine are all gapped. No where near flush like @TroutBum

 

Been thinking about this, couple things to check - are the bedsides splayed out or does the topper need to be adjusted? There is some flex in these glass toppers, you could try loosening one side and pushing it in... Hope that makes sense...

Mike

 

Got this truck used with a LEER cap. The bolts are all rusted out. Anyone know the replacement thread and torque spec? Going to get stainless replacements

 

My personal feeling is that the Leer fastening system (4 bolts in the corners) is not adequate, especially if you have a roof rack. I added 4 more clamps, 2 in the middle of the sides and 2 in the front.

If you over-torque the bolts, the accessory rail will be distorted.

The Leer mounting bolts normally do not lie flat on top.

 

Agree! Where do you get those sweet clamps? Got a link?

 

API Clamps (4 Pack) Silver Compatible with Toyota Tacoma - 2005 & Newer - Mounting Channel Track Truck Topper Cap, Camper Shell

https://www.amazon.com/API-Clamps-S...9&sprefix=camper+shell+clamps,aps,159&sr=8-11

 

Ordered thanks for the link!

 

Picked up some stainless hardware today. Replaced all the shitty mild steel Leer hardware. Bolts are 5/16 18 thread.

@Leer… at your price point you guys need to include ALL 304 stainless hardware. WTF?

 

I know I am bumping an old thread here but I was curious about the torque specs for the 100XR too. I wasn't able to get an answer from Leer so I tested it myself and there were less than 5 ft*lbs on rear bolts which seems pretty darn low. I haven't had any problems with it but I don't do a lot of off roading (yet).

Does this seem unusually low to anyone else?

 

This is a case where the results matter more than a specified torque. These are flexible materials you are dealing with: the bulb gasket, the Toyota accessory rail, and the bottom ledge of the shell. Tighten the bolts/clamps until you begin to see a visible distortion (and then back off a bit).

 

Thanks. I just ordered those clamps for my slightly-shifting Leer 100XR.

I also ordered the rail for the front that wasn't included on Third gens. I searched but I can't find the thread (saw it before) of how to attach it to the bed. Would you mind sharing this info? Is any other hardware needed?

 

There are 5 Torx bolts that attach the cap to the front edge of the bed. Remove them and then reinstall them through the holes in the accessory rail. Simple. (Once you get the rail it should be obvious.)

 

Looking for some advice from Tacoma/Leer owners. Hate to dig up an old thread but this one covers some of the information already.

I recently purchased an XR for my short bed Tacoma. Following the Leer manual, I checked hardware after the first month and noticed one of the four wings where the fibreglass extends to accept the mounting bolt has significantly less rigidity and easily bends right over. All the others snug up tight retaining the cab between the truck and cap and this one just flops over.

I brought the cap back to the dealership, where they took a look. I checked torque when they were done and three bolts were at about 80in/lb and the corner in question was at 45in/lb. At a little more then half the torque it was tightened about 1/2" more than all the others.

The dealership told me it was normal and not to touch it again myself and not to worry about re-tightening.... they told me if I over-tighten the corner that bends it will void my warranty.

Seems strange that one bolt can only be tightened half as much as the other three. $5Kcad is a lot for a truck accessory and this seems like a defect. The dealership instructions are contradictory as Leer suggests tightening bolts every month and have read many accounts of caps working loose, shifting, and causing body damage.

I ordered the C clamps as others suggested by others for re-assurance.

Wondering if anybody has experienced this issue, has dealt with Leer, or has a possible solution to offer.

 

Agreed the C clamps that attach to the side rails are a lot better. I put 3 on each side and two C clamps on the front rail to resist the side to side shear otherwise supported by mostly the bed stiffener brackets. With 8 clamps total it has never moved out of position.

I found the front bed rail you are adding lines up perfectly with the front of the XR100 shell to also use C clamps up front if you place this behind the rail and use longer bolts through the 8020 between the front rail and the bed:

$75 8020, 3034-Lite, 15 Series 3" x 0.75" T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion DIY Extruded Slot Bar Rail 80/20 3" x 3/4" Profile (Black Anodize, 60" Long)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C7F22DJF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

This piece is a couple inches too long but otherwise the perfect size for behind the front rail and if you trim the length carefully it also solves the gap up front issue that leaks water. Overall I am using it to replace that square tube that mounts up front but is not long enough. Nicely, if you drill the through-holes centered through the lower slot it is exactly the right height to seal the shell, which is not true with to OEM square bar up front. If you try to replicate the pic below without a spacer such as the 8020 you'll see why it is necessary.

Also I think these clamps have better leverage than the ones showing up in the links at the bottom of the page which are more of an elongated C shape:

$33 AA-Racks P-AC-04N Utility Track System Mounting Clamp for Toyota Tacoma/Tundra Truck Cap/Camper Shell, Set of 4 - Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GZCYJ6T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


Front bed rail. Can see the 8020 spacer behind it:

 

Thanks a lot, tacoma_ca. How tight did you go with the C clamps? The package says 60in/lbs but they still seem loose being able to be hand wiggled around at that spec. Doesn't even compress the locknut. The angled edge on the top piece of the clamp seems to take a lot of force to overcome.

My question now is, with the cap being only a month old, should I make fuss to Leer about the floppy, limp attachment point or just load up additional clamps and forget about it?

 

I like the other response about tightening until the fiberglass deforms, then back off to a comfortable level of deformation. I used a Milwaukee high speed ratchet to tighten, and letting it crank until it stops seemed like the rigjt amount to me. That should be around 35 ft-lbs.

 

35 ft-lbs isn't going anywhere!! The dealer told me the stock bolts can't handle more than 7.5 ft-lbs.

Gotta say, not the most impressed with Leer. The cap costed more than 10% the price of the truck and was delivered with fish eyes, clear coat sages, scratches, rusty hardware.

I pointed it out to the dealer upon delivery and they said its standard for Leer and I should have ordered a Smart Cap instead... *facepalm*