Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Yeah that’s what I was saying originally. Easy to do with HP tuner. I’ll drive it a bit more and actually try to crawl it on an obstacle or two and see how it does first. There’s a nice downed tree about 40” around right when I enter the forest by me that’s been my flex tester and it always pulls the wheel hard when going up it. I’ll see how hard it pulls the wheel now sometime this weekend as a first indicator of how it will do in the rocks

 

My guess is you will want it up. I set mine at 950. I was able to get away with it for the most part but steering definitely gets tight if it starts lugging at all.

 

Just did the LCA pivots, upper arms, spindle gussets, upper arm double shear, steering double shear, front skid plate, fox DSC all around, bolt in Deavers and the TC pump kit... all I can say is wow! The pump makes such a big difference and the truck is really enjoyable to drive now. Thanks @01 dhrracer for letting me do my thing on this one!

 

Fu*king drool!! Ok, I'm definitely going down this route when I can afford it! That can all be done in stages, ya?

 

So, in my brain storming of how to make this steering even better I had a thought. What if one were to replace the slide rack with a hydro ram? You could essentially have full Hydro while maintaining the mechanical link. You could theoretically block off the flow control lines to the rack and use the flow control valve as a servo for the ram. It would make the factory rack only partially power. Am I on something good today, or is this actually a legitimate idea?

 

We already went down this road and the problem is packaging with the ram. You will have to cut out one side of the front crossmember completely in order to get the ram to stroke correctly. It gets to the point where you’re trying too hard to desperately make the rack work. If you want to spend the time and money to do it right put a steering box on the truck with a swing set in place of the rack and run the ram to the relay rod in front of the crossmember

 

Just to make sure we are in the same page. Like this?

 

Yes exactly and we even spoke with Sweet about making a specific rack for the Tacoma. There isn’t enough room for what’s available and making an entirely new custom setup was way too expensive. Again it’s just gets to the point where what are you desperately trying to save?

Think about this...a Corvette has more than enough HP and torque to tow a 12k lbs trailer but you wouldn’t spend endless time and money trying to convert the corvette into a tow rig. So just because your Tacoma has 4x4 doesn’t mean it makes sense spends endless time and money trying to make it into a rock buggy.

 

I'm really not trying to desperately save anything. I am trying to find an option for my situation that will work. I like the fact I can go grab a new rack any time I need. I don't like the fact that I'm about to do round 2 of rack seals since may. I guess that's what I'm trying to fix. Considering I cant find a long term solution to my dirt intrusion issue, the next idea was eliminating that issue all together by depowering the rack.

 

Then put a steering box on

 

Maybe once I pick up another daily, because that is a can of worms. I have a whole lot to learn about swing set geometry before I even consider attempting it.

 

Harry is the best with being honest straight forward and will not talk you into more than you need and YES can work with you on doing it in stages. What and when.

 

I didn’t need a 12k JDfab front end but here I am

 

I might end up close to 14K including the rear and wheels and tires. If you have the time others are always moving up. For me, Wheels were Kasnerds Method 701's, Tires new from North County Tire and Wheel, Rear springs (J66)were from a previous build Harry did then I refreshed them. Trying them gives a really good base line to make a decision what might work better for me if these don't work out. Most likely would be Deaver H70HD when I go spring under. But for now I think these will work well. Shocks were Zach's take off's then Harry had Fox service them. Upper arms are new but picked them up from another who decided to go LT +4. This process takes time but it might not be any worse than the long lead times with new.

 

I am getting a tundra rack from basikbiker. People have said they are pretty solid. Have to do some fab work to make it work but doesn’t seem too bad. With Jd fabs double shear steering kit seems like a pretty solid option.

 

So I am clear, there are no steering upgrades available for the 3rd gen at this time because of the oil filter house if being in the way, correct?

 

I was kinda making a joke but…..
I already went down that road with my dual shock mid travel setup.
This time I did it right. Put all the good shit on in a 10 month time frame. LCA pivots , slide rack, Howe steering, inner fenders, +4 kit with new coilovers and secondaries. Have had the DMZ SUA for almost 3 years. It’s finally turned into the truck I didn’t even know I wanted. Im down to getting a fabbed 9inch rear end which will eliminate the last weak link….or transfer it to something more expensive but whatever I’m gonna do it soon!!

 

Had this talk with Harry a while back about the tundra rack with lower pivots, high chance the tie rod will contact the coil over with the arms moved forward. That is if you're not using the factory inners.

 

From what I understood is you still use Tacoma inners and outers as it’s a good weak link for the rack. I didn’t think about that though. I eventually want to do jd fabs lower pivots. How to you get a hold of one of his slide racks?