Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Probably. And it might not even be an option. Just thought id ask if anyone had done anything different

 

Doesn't seem like a huge surface area, so I bet you'd be fine on aluminum if that's the only way.

 

Every one that I've installed so far, including the one on my truck, is steel @Suicyco

 

Cool. Probably got switched over from initial release. Steel makes sense

 

Yea, mines steel.

 

I know they make both. I have a second gen steel and second gen aluminum in stock right now.

 

Oh ok so there is an option. Thanks

 

Drop down menu option on the website

 

Lol, a couple weekends ago I beached my pivot skid on a rock and had to pull myself off. Aside from some scratches it didn’t even push in. Aluminum is just fine IMO

Artec makes a ton of jeep skids. Front to back aluminum entire underbody coverage type. Lots of people that use and abuse them really like them. I think there is just a heavy misconception about the strength of aluminum.

 

Just brought it up and its pretty damn hard to miss now. Thanks man

 

Yes both aluminum and steel are available however I’ll just never understand why anyone would ever want steel

 

Where were you guys when I ordered full steel skids for the truck a few years back....after doing much armchair research...

 

I have original style Mobtown steel skids 3/16 with the 1/4 ribs reinforcement
They’re like a wave underneath. Being a manual on the rocks; I’m a bit “rough” on them.

 

To be fair the JD skid and other skids are a lot different. JDs skid is properly supported for aluminum to take the hits. Other manufacturers are on standoffs and not a lot of support so to prevent bending badly you have to make them super thick and reinforced. Or just do what all racers do and treat them as a wear item and replace every so often.

 

Exactly

 

Harry, I notice there are options for the +2.25 and the +4 kit when picking hydro mounting options for the front. Are the mounting tabs you provide specific to your kit or would they work with other kits too? I assume it positions the hydro bump in a specific spot, hence the choice of selection

 

They are specific for each kit... and yes they put them in the perfect spot to eliminate any guess work

 

You mean we don't have to use the calibrated eyecrometer to get them right.

 

You do actually. If you are using 3.0 secondary it is very close to the bump can at full droop. You need to be very careful with placement and cycle a lot to make sure you have clearance before you burn it in. Even with my 2.5 secondary I had to trim the can to make clearance. 100% my fault since I burned the cans in before I got my King shocks and I was rolling with some temporary Fox coilovers. This is a do as I say not as I do moment. Ask @RonRon23 how close his are on his 3.0s and he did it the right way.

 

On page 50. Only 450 to go. I have a feeling I am going to have a lot of credit card debt when I’m done reading. By far one of the best threads on here thanks to Harry.