3rd Gen Differential and Manual Transmission (6MT) Fluid Change

I keep hearing people talk about using the Toyota Dif oil or you'll be sorry. Has anyone had good results with the Royal purple gear oil in the Dif and Transfer case? Im a big fan of RP and would like to everntually change it out. Not anythime soon as i only have 3200miles, but eventually.

 

I used Ravenol when I did the T case swap primarily due to the cost. Since, I added the 2LM and have used it daily. That has me going back to the Toyota stuff. Recently got some for a bit over $60 delivered. Not great, but I will run it for at least 60k.


The only VOAs that we have seen was for the Toyota LF stuff and Ravenol. That partly convinced me to go back to the Toyota stuff.

RP, Redline, Motul, and some others all say that they meet the Toyota spec. After seeing the two VOAs, I would like to see others before trying anything else. I think it was @splitbolt that noted our T case is made in the US and yet, Toyota ships over some whack stuff made in Japan for the factory fill. Kind of a statement there?


Of course, many dealers have been noted swapping in straight up gear lube like the 2nd Gens used.

 

Running all Amsol in mine thanks to @Pablo8 , nothing but good things to say.

 

If it works for you, that is all that matters.


I'm a general bottom feeder. It takes a lot for me to get something special with regards to automotive fluids. The 3rd Gen T case thing is weird and I have come to accept that.

I lost my ability to care on the motorcycle side when "motorcycle" engine oil was going for insane prices 10yrs ago, like $20/qt, and folks were still swapping that stuff early. For me, formulations for diesel engines made the most sense. Cheap as chips comparatively.


In the end, the Toyota LF stuff might not be a big deal and some GL5 gear lube may last 300k? For now, I'm just one data point and going back to the Toyota stuff until more is known.

 

You're tempting me to swap. I actually rather enjoyed the fluid changes. It was slow going for me though. But I'd be game for an encore now that I kind of know what I'm doing.

 

Yeah. The driveline fluids are fun without dealing with filters, having to go topside, and such. I did finally grab a small $10 sprayer from HomeDepot to do the diffs. Hand pumping wasn't horrible but did take quite a long time for the rear.


Checking the levels and doing the front diff bushing did have me seeing some really nice looking fluid dribbling out.

The MT fluid lasted about 40k before getting notchy. So, that was redone about 10k ago. Having about 50k on the Ravenol stuff has me wanting to do the swap there.

 

Redline makes transfer case oil that meets Toyota spec: Redline MT-LV GL-4 Gear Oil.

 

Why not while you’re at it? In my experience of two new 3rd gens, the manual transmission fluid and t-case could have stayed on factory fluid until recommended change interval, but the differentials I highly recommend doing early.

 

What are the stated intervals for the Diff, T case ?

 

Thanks I'll look into ADM delete truck feels good so far

 

You're welcome.

 

I just got done changing the diff fluid in my Tacoma over the weekend with Redline

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90. Current mileage was just over 1100mi. I definitely had some diff howl before and don't notice it as much after the change. I haven't done much highway driving yet, but so far the early change seems to be worth it. Only pain in the ass was torquing the front diff fill and getting the TRD skid plate back on with my truck on the ground. I'm definitely getting a jack and jack stands for next go.

 

The TRD skid plate isn’t fun, I had it off twice now, first to do the the front differential fluid and last night when I undercoated the truck. I'm not planning to take it off again for several years until the next differential fluid change.

 

Oil changes have me taking it off. I'm not the neatest person in the world, but oil dripping off of skids kind of annoys me.

It gets easier with practice. Though, I think it might be easier if the long lead-in wasn't there on the tails of the bolts.

 

On that note, given my plan is roughly:
a. remove shell
b. take to dealer for oil change and 3rd brake light tsb
c. replace shell

Would @tonered have me remove the pro skid at a and replace at c or just trust them to not make a mess?

 

I think the skid plate is fairly fool proof. It's just a pain when the truck is on the ground. If on a lift with two people it's probably a breeze. I'd say let the dealer handle the skid plate.

 

If I was going to a shop, esp with the reports of fragged weld nuts, I would pull the skid before taking it in.

 

I would take the skid off that way they don't lose or crossthread the bolts.

 

Does the Pro skid not have the little filler door/access hatch?

 

It does, but it is not quite in line with the filter.

We had cars with filter and drain access. It was a mess.

The skid takes hardly any time to mess with, so I just take it off. If I was taking it to a shop, as noted, it would be coming off. Zero trust there. Ugga-duggas or ham-fists are gonna be problematic and proving it would be even worse.