Bandido's Bad at Taking Pictures '03 DC Build

I've been wondering if flipping the outer tie rod to go into the spindle from the top, putting the inner tie rod at a more neutral position with a lift, if that would help with bumpsteer/travel numbers

 

I'll check, I hadn't really looked into messing with the chassis/spindle points up front yet, I had only really been thinking to move the lower point about an inch further forward and return the upper point to about the same position as OEM aftermarket UCA's.
Generally the tie rod should be pretty close to parallel to the closest control arm to minimize bump steer.. but hey its worth a check!

I should probably also make an excel/sheet to plot camber curves and the like.

 

Looking at it under my truck, it would def have to be uniball connecting on top of the spindle rather than bottom to get it parallel with the ground. As far as correcting for caster I got nothin

 

Nah the Toe link (generally) needs to be parallel to the Lower A-arm (a line from chassis bolt to Ball joint center) to minimize bump steer.

I'll be able to plug it into the Computer in a few hours, I just need to remember to check the stock geo

 

Okay okay I see the issue now, angles are fine in the stock locations even with a lift, you just can't get travel numbers out of the inner tie rod

 

Yeah exactly that, need to go to a clevis inner joint I think, I wish I had realized this before buying a new rack lol

 

If you're keeping the ball joint and stock spindle, you could make something like this:

https://www.solomotorsports.com/sho...toyota-1-lower-uniball-heim-steering-upgrade/

Otherwise if you're making your spindle mount to the uppers and lowers with uniballs you could make your own billet tie rod with a lathe:

https://www.solomotorsports.com/sho...oyota-inner-heim-and-clevis-steering-upgrade/

https://camburg.com/shop/fabrication/fab-steering-clevis-kits/camburg-steering-heim-clevis-kits/

 

ECU and wiring kit showed up today. Frankenstein Motor works for the win!!


This ECU has auto trans codes removed, as well as EVAP small leak, and secondary O2 loop codes. The timing table has also been optimized for power, rev limit has been raised to match the lotus tune for this motor (7200rpm)... Not that I will be spending a lot of time up in those revs, but when/if I do, the truck should sound AWESOME!!

The wiring kit has the body harness side plug for the new ecu (22 wires) as well as a patch harness connector to connect all of the body side signals/power(15 wires)to make this engine live and breath, as well as be super simple to put in another 2GR into the truck in the future if I ever need to.

 

How much was all that - I was thinking of LS swap if the motor dies before I move on from the truck but I think this would be as good if not better. You being able to keep the trans is a big time win.

 

The ecu and wiring kit were about $600 shipped. Motor was $500 picked up. Actual mint wiring harness was $230 shipped, 150a alternator was $100 picked up, AC clutch kit was $40. I havent priced or purchased any of the plumbing yet... Vs a basic LS swap, this should be quite a bit cheaper, similar power, but several less torques.
Exhaust will probably be around a grand for head back ss with hi flow cats

Most of the guys running this motor and ECU with a free flowing exhaust end up in the 280-300rwhp range.

 

Is the crank the right bolt pattern for a r150 clutch? Will you be able to use a mechanical fan?

 

Yeah, clutch bolts right up, in the post about fitting the starter, I bolted up the old flex plate from the 5vz to turn over the new motor.
I actually will run an electric fan as that what I run already.

 

Motor mount bushings and exhaust are all here. I may start to pull the 5vz this upcoming weekend. I'll definitely need a weekend dedicated to making the headers fit... I'm getting excited and antsy to make progress. I might end up taking some pto to bust stuff out after hitting some work deadlines.

 

Might be available to help. No promises

 

I still might be moving to MI in the beginning of October....still need to figure that out haha.

 

OK finally taking some PTO this weekend to make progress.

The things I'm worried about are:
1. intake manifold; it needs to be modified to fit/route correctly
2. headers; these also need to be modified to fit; also to route past the steering column correctly
3. Lower oil pan x diff clearance, the lower oil pan definitely needs a slight modification, and it looks like the motor will sit about 3/4 of an inch higher in the engine bay than the 5vze I took out.

Other things I don't have figured out:
- Water Plumbing, but this seems easy, most of the outlets are in about the right spot; the heater core hoses are close, but also maybe too close to the fire wall.
-AC lines, also seems easy, but I haven't found a local shop that has confirmed that they can swage new lines/fittings (AC is on the opposite side of the block now)
-Power steering lines, this may be the easiest one as the power steering is in almost the same position and the pump uses suspiciously similar looking fittings.

So parts I've got are:
'13 Sienna 2GR-FE, non oil cooled $500 picked up
'13 Sienna 2GR-FE wiring harness $250 shipped
'09 RX350 Oil cooled Upper pan $130 shipped
'15 Sienna High output Alternator $80 picked up
'08 Tacoma 1GR Power steering pump $50 picked up
'03 Tacoma 5VZ cold weather starter $50 shipped
'17 Sienna ECU modified by Frankenstein Motorwerks $470 shipped
Noonish


7ish: 2gr is mated to the trans here, lower oil pan removed.

Tomorrows goals:
Fab motor mounts, route plumbing, modify lower oil pan, remove keep wires from 5vz harness.

 

Truck progress has been a little slow, waiting on a helicoil kit that matched the Block x Trans connection before I can do a "final" install of the block; Motor Mounts are done however.
Another thing that I didn't catch ahead of time. Part of the Valve cover is MUCH too close to the T100 Brake booster, not sure if a factory brake booster would fit better, but I plan to cut a little bit of the valve cover off to make sure there is 1/2in of clearance.

lost a few nights of sleep over some of the motor swap things being more difficult than expected, so I designed a shift knob that can be 3D Printed and accept the 1st gen ADD 4wd button. It also can accept around 8oz of tungsten Pinewood derby weights, so it should feel pretty good vs a stock knob or a basic 3d printed knob.
Printing my.....3rd one now (still getting the button retention geometry just right) but if I can get eh quality dialed in, I'd consider selling a 5spd knob + Low range knob of the same style, reusing the factory 4wd button and BYOT (Bring Your Own Tungsten)


Now that I look at this however, I think I should move the R to the right a little more as pictured... lol
*edit and fixed; now another 6 hours to print again lol

 

Still waiting on some things to make big progress on the motor... Sadly.


Printed shift knob looks and feels good.

The seam between the upper and lower halfs still seems to stand out no matter what I do!

 

And even tho I checked, and re-checked, the intake manifolds is 1/2" too tall, and I can't close the hood....
As expected, the driver side header is a right bitch, it's gonna take a solid 40 hours to get that bitch made. I am modeling it tho, so making another should be ez.

That flange sits up about 1/2" higher than the rest of the manifold... I might make all the clearance I need if I get a little tricky.

 

Just cut a hole through the hood and stick one of those autozune scoops on there