Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Man, I cannot tell you how helpful this is specific to this setup. Thank you so much for being so thorough with your response. As for the the small ground wire coming from the switch pro, did you connect it to the negative bus bar?

 

According to Switch Pros it should go directly to the negative battery terminal.

 

I have a Magnuson Supercharger that has trigger wire on the “INJ” fuse already. Can I remove this and add this to the same Add-A-Fuse that I use for the SwitchPros? If so, what size fuse should I use for both triggers?


From the Magnuson install manual

 

Since switch pros and Magnuson are just calling for a signal from the inj fuse I think you should be fine to use one fuse tap for both. Keeping the 10 amp for inj in the bottom slot and using 5 amp in the top slot for switch pros and Magnuson. Below is a good explanation on correct orientation for fuse taps.

Others please chime in if I'm missing something.

https://www.124spider.org/threads/add-a-fuse-the-right-and-wrong-way-to-use-them.33420/

 

No worries! I had a lot of question and emailed PowerTray directly actually. They were super helpful and customer service was top notch in answering all my questions. I was really confused about the inline fuses as in all the pics I saw they were the MRBF type and that short stubby ground.

Re: the SP ground. The SP manual says to connect direct to battery but I connected it to the bus bar and haven't had any issues. I've seen some pics of others doing it to the bus bar as well.

 

Thank you!

 

Thanks again, @soysauce021! You gave me the direction and confidence needed to finish this thing up. Not proud of this but I bought everything in June and it’s just sat there until last week. I was too intimidated to take it on. Really appreciate all your help!

 

Fellas - I’ll take any help you can offer. I have my truck apart and for some reason can’t find a way for the power tray to clear my @SpikerEng hoodstruts even with 1/2 spacers installed. Anyone ever run into this? If so, how did you work around it? Desperate here.

 

It looks like you need twice the size of the spacer! Can you take a second photo a little farther back to show how much room you have on the left side of the tray to the other items. (Aka if you had larger spacers, would the tray still fit?) I used some extra nuts and washers on a friends Taco who didn’t order the spacer kit and longer bolts from Lowe’s.

edit: added screenshot / highlight of areas I’m curious on how much space is left with your truck.

 

Hey - Thanks for your reply! I had no choice but to take everything out. I was blocking my wife in the driveway and had to get the truck running again.

Here’s the weird thing: The spacer kit was purchased from Powertrays for this specific reason, to accommodate hood struts. That being said I can’t be the first one who has ran into this issue with this kit given how many folks have hood struts and powertrays.

The other issue I ran into was the included M8 bolts seemed extremely tight for the fender screw holes, almost as if they are the wrong fit. Here’s a link for the kit in case I really am the only one trying to use it.


https://www.powertrays.com/products/hood-strut-spacer-kit

 

I wondering if that spacer kit is only for 1 specific hood strut. A few years ago there was really only 1 popular hood struts that people gravitate towards and now there’s a few different options.

 

Hey - Thanks for your reply. I had that same thought. I thought @SpikerEng was the most common and possibly first on the market. I noticed Spiker has a similar kit and their screws and spacers seem to be the same size as the ones I received from PowerTrays.

 

I hope you get it worked out. Kinda sucks to get 1/2 way into a project and it’s not working out the way it’s supposed too. Keep us posted wit the results. Good luck op!

 

Brother, thanks so much for kind words. Of all the things that could go wrong with this project this isn’t the thing I thought it would be. All the wiring, passing through the firewall etc and the thing that seems to be shutting me down are a couple of bolts.

 

The bolts were extremely tight on mine too. Run the bolts in and out before trying to mount the tray. I would tighten a bit then back off a half turn. Kept doing this until it loosened up. Even better would be to buy the correct size tap and chase the threads. I think they just have some paint in the threads from the factory since they aren’t used.

 

So after some digging I found a few data points. Might not be helpful. Is your strut push rod on the fender side and not the hood side?

• The power trays picture doesn't have the driver side plastic trim.
• They used rivnuts and bolts instead of rivets.
• They're using the spiker engineering mounting location.
• Unless there's another brand I think it's a spiker or redline kit (Sobietech is completely different).
• Maybe the have a strut mount with a shorter ball post.

 

The 1/2" spacers are not going to be thick enough. You typically will need ~ 1" spacers to clear the powertray. Here's a photo of an installation using Home Depot procured 1-1/8" spacers:





Or you can make a more elegant version with some spacers, like this:

 

Will give this a go. Thanks so much for this. Glad to hear I’m not the only one in this boat. Thanks again!

 

Hi - Thanks so much for doing all this homework. Yes, I’m using an @SpikerEng model and appear to have the same exact setup as the photos minus the plastic trim difference you mentioned. Mine is mounted on the fender side. Thanks again.

 

@SpikerEng, thanks so much for taking the time to verify and provide solutions with photos. This guy is headed to Lowes now. I’ll keep everyone posted on how this thing turns out. (Love your struts)

Thanks for all the support, everyone!