Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

Hey Fellas,

While I’m sorting out the powertray clearance mystery, I figured I’d leave you with another challenge I just ran into. How did you guys get around the plastic brace in the dash recess blocking the switch from going back into the dash. In the previous bezel the button was on the other side (now where the switch pro controller is located.) Now it’s right in the path of the plastic but circled. Photos below.)

 

You'll have to trim the brace or not use that switch spot.

Edit: If I remember correctly a blank won't even work it that spot unless you trim the brace.

 

^^

 

Cut

 

Roger that - The tribe has spoken. I’ll take “dremel” for $200, Alex. Thanks again, fellas!

 

Do you mind showing us how much you end up having to cut?

 

Will do. With any luck I’ll be at that point later this afternoon.

 

Fellas - The saga continues. Let me start by saying, please don’t judge. I blame the fact that I have to keep taking things apart and putting them back together again on this next one.

Does anyone know the size factory bolt that holds the bracket for the front differential breather lines (Two black tubes with silver caps) This is where the leg of the powertray connects.

Long story short, it got away from me an fell down somewhere in the engine bay. I’m hoping it will fall out or onto my skid plates but for now I can’t find it. Any help with identifying the size would be appreciated. Photos below of that helps.

 

I can go look in a few minutes and let you know, stand by

 

M6 x 0.75 (fine) I believe

 

You are one fine man. Many thanks for this. That was very kind of you.

 

Happy to help

 

This question is for anyone but I know @Shellshock has written up on this a few times. My Morimoto headlights add a fuse is blocking the blue wire (ignition) add a fuse placement. Can anyone recommend an alternative location for either the blue wire add a fuse or the one for the Morimotos? @caribe makaira - Could you make a recommendation by chance?

Here’s a shot of the area in question:

 

Are the morimotos just using inj for a signal?

 

Hi - The Morimotos DRL function is tapped into EFI No 3 fuse using an add a fuse. That gets in the way of the switch pro blue wire add a fuse to INJ (labeled 3 in photo). Trying to utilize @Shellshock configuration:

Blue wire to 3 (ignition)
Pink wire to 2 (trigger)
White wire to 1 (illumination))

but I need an alternative for the blue wire/ignition since INJ fuse is blocked due to Morimoto on EFI No3 fuse. There is probably a really simple solution however I’m a complete electrical novice.

 

Is the drl tap just for a trigger? Down at the bottom of that row there’s also a drl fuse you could probably move that one to?

 

Hey @Shellshock, Thanks for your reply. It is just a trigger for the DRL on the headlights. Like you, I thought for that reason moving it to the dedicated DRL fuse would so the trick. For whatever reason when I move it to that fuse the DRLs stay on even when the truck is powered off. I’m so confused.

 

Some of the fuses have power after the truck is off for whatever reason (im not an expert in which)

There’s really no hard in picking any of the other fuses and trying it - Theres 4 EFI fuses, D INJ, radio… I’d think one of them would work

You could also probably cut your wire and Y it to both the DRL and switch pro without any issue since its just a trigger.. but you’d have to try it.

 

DRL circuit is fused +12V always on, ECU sends the trigger to the relay. At least as far as I understand things. Very few ignition triggers in the engine bay.

I would split the INJ for both IGN purposes if it were me.

Or go OEM LED and dump the morimoto.

 

All this talk of the OEM LEDs.. i feel like im gonna have to give in and get some..