Anti-seize lubricant on spark plug threads?

Lots more.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/spark-plug-stuck-210907/

 

Always makes me
I work with a couple of those guys!
I always apply a small amount of the stuff to the threads. After having a buggered up spark plug thread 30 some years ago...I just can't do spark plugs without it now. That buggered up thread ordeal was on a mid 80's 22RE engine upon removal of factory plugs.

 

If there was a good chance I would never work on that vehicle again I might not care enough

 

FWIW, you can file the following in anecdotal experience.

I recently had a 6 hour battle with a stubborn steel bolt in aluminum threads during a valve cover gasket replacement. On reassembly, I used NEW bolts and a dab of anti-seize.

I restored an '81 motorcycle, many frozen parts due to steel/aluminum interface. A dab of the copper based anti-seize on reassembly.

Many years prior, I had an ooooolllllllddddd Buick that needed work to keep it running. I discovered the miracle of anti-seize on that ride.

Any brake work I do gets a bit of anti-seize on threads. I reduce the torque by roughly 10%. Torque specs on fasteners is not an exact science to determine the correct value. Like anything, there is a tolerance around any specification.

 

The sheet gets everywhere.

Anyway...I've used antiseize countless time over the years on all sorts of things. Whoever ends up with my Taco many years from now is going to love me. Because everything they unbolt will come apart like butter.

That said....in my 35 years of wrenching, I have never once used antiseize on spark plugs. I've never had a need to or an issue after the fact.

 

Yeah, you know it comes as a little bit of surprise that some, even master technicians for a lifetime who have posted here don't use it. That one time that I did have a problem removing a plug the engine was not completely cold. That may have been why I had a problem with one out of four.?? I mean it was plenty cooled off just not cold. Regardless I put a little on there now and never had any trouble since.
Makes me wonder how a master technician gets the engine cooled down enough to replace spark plugs? Drop your vehicle off and pick it up tomorrow?

 

Well....you know there have been millions of spark plug changes done on warm engines over the decades. Not something I'm real keen on doing. Maybe I'm just being a little paranoid about soft warm aluminum and hardened steel plugs. But I avoid it.

A couple of years back I did a plug change on my brother in law's Sienna. At the time it was about 15 years old with 165k miles on it. Plugs had never been changed. I was a little nervous. But all 6 came out as if they had been put in yesterday.

 

For what it's worth.....at least specific to NGK plugs.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

 

I always "never sneeze" everything, except the press tapered fit on front end parts,,,, I've seen in the past where the steel seems to "tear" the aluminum threads as it comes out, on some items.

 

Ok, that is one brand......

How about Denso, Autolite, Bosch, ACDelco as a few? Thanks, I'll stay with a dab of copper based Aunty Sees.

 

That's why I said this...

And NGKs are all I use. So it's relevant in my case

 

Just to chime in here about the NGK recommendation against it; they are correct in that it alters the torque value, and that's the main reason they say not to use it.

There's two different issues at play here, there's galvanic corrosion and there's "Joe Bob the fucking gorilla torque spec"- what NGK is worried about is you threading your spark plugs into an aluminum head and then calmly walking over to your air wrench and giving each spark plug a couple seconds of ugga dugga like this is a completely normal thing sane humans do.

Would I trust the coating? Maybe, that's up to you to decide. Personally I would still use a dab of copper anti seize just to be safe... As long as you torque it like a sane person the worst you've done is wasted a dab of it.

 

You know for a hundred years....everytime you pull or press something...you ALWAYS lube....
if not your dealing with almost pure friction, instead of snugness of the fit...
At the microscopic level you have no ideal of the quality of that alloy metal batch run at the foundry....all steels are a formula...a mix

Case in point.....what the freak happen with all those rusty ass tocoma frames.....bad day at the steel factory....bad ore....


Plastic is even worse....some might last years and years....and then same oem purchased later...cracks in less than year.....wtf....
Like my brandnew oem doorhandle.....thats crunchy now few months later....

 

And to support the other side....americans way over do everything....
just a dab will do it....and actually I think its the under side of the head of the bolt that welds its self most time, not the threads....unless there's another problem like constant water presents....this reason an easy out has half a chance....

And for aluminum....alot you guys are way over torqueing....you guys scare me....
mechanics love u.....they need to put their grand kids thru college....
because when u cross that threshold its usally professional mech time......or salvage yard...

 

I've used anti seize and torque them to spec. I've changed my spark plugs at 30K, 60K, and 90K without any issues. My truck is at 100K now.

 

I'll installed a 1000 plugs, most of them motorcycle, and have never used a torque wrench....
I'm just always mindful of what I was wrenching into.....

Sounds crazy but that torque wrench interferes with that feel.....need to feel that gasket right when it goes flat....


Hardly ever use torque wrench..... but I have all the different versions of thread locks and two different anti seize......and one heck of a washer collection....and all the copper washers, even save the old ones.....never know...

Do find out correct torque...so you know what youir shooting for....dont guess....
Know the trouble spots.....hang out here for while.....

Know alot of you are already have a mind set lock .......but as a scuba diver, cyclist, and rc heli pilot,,,,, I lube, anti seize, or lock everything, whether mechanical or chemical....

Welded destroyed seized together metal ....sucks
If you bike in the rain you already know.....

Bottom line...dry threads generally bad ideal....unless its your kids swingset...or fender bolt.....nobody's died from a lose fender lately....

 

And Denso also says don't put goop on your spark plug threads.


https://www.denso.com/global/en/pro...-and-accessories/plug/basic/torque/index.html

 

I set my wrench to 20# when I do plugs. NGK's recommended dry torque is 18#

 

Nope. NGK specifically said that it's not needed. Never had an issue.

 

I paid my house off from doing head work from people using that shit on plugs…
Best investment customers did for me…
Thank You