Fumoto Fact(s) You Might Not Know

Upon further thought about these neodymium magnets…… why wouldn’t I simply purchase NEW drain and fill plugs and then place optimally sized magnets directly to the end of each plug? No bonding required. The pull force to remove them is 30+ lbs. They won’t be going anywhere. Also found some that operate in high temperature environments up to 350 degree f.

 

Someone with machining/3D printing skills could easily make stainless steel plugs with the right dimensions and cutouts to accept a cylindrical neodymium magnet, I was looking at the stock cylindrical magnets and 7/16" appears to be a good fit for the M18x1.5 and up to 19/32" would be good for the M24x1.5, both with some high temp permanent sealant holding the magnet for good measure, pressing it in shouldn't be too difficult.

On a side note, I think a good name for a magnet company would be, "Gaussian Distribution".

 

Here’s one more thought, something I am going to to move forward on now. I’m going to purchase one of these neodymium magnets in a large size and use it in the monthly oil I drain out and bypass filter. OR

1. Drain oil out of your engine using a Fumoto valve directly into a clean jug.
2. Insert a large neodymium magnet directly into the drained oil using one configured like the one pictured to dip and swipe it through the oil and remove.

 

I'm sure you could absolutely do that, as long as the magnet doesn't bottom out on anything like a ring gear, etc. That's something I didn't think of but I'm sure someone has done it before successfully.

The magnet coming off of the plug seems to be a somewhat common issue for people, particularly those that use aluminum magnetic plugs instead of stainless. There are also reported galling issues with Al to Al contact, which I have experienced in other applications. I'm not sure if magnets coming loose is a manufacturing problem (most likely) or if it's just a weak magnet and thermal expansion opens the cutout around the magnet allowing it to escape over time with bumps. At any rate, there are a lot of people who swear by placing neodymium magnets right on the housing of their powertrain components and claim they hold the metallic particles through the housing. I think there's a point of diminishing returns in everything so just using neodymium for both fill and drain is likely more than sufficient for longevity.

I can't yet confirm whether using a magnetic fill valve attracts much metal, but my idea is that the fluids are being whipped around violently during operation, especially at highway speed and surely something is going to stick to the fill plug. Banks power has a great video on the fluid behavior inside of a differential and that's what got me thinking to place magnets on the fill ports.

 

I don't see how that couldn't work to catch many of the sub 2-micron particles. Like you said, your filtration system will likely make the oil cleaning than how it came out of the bottle, LOL.

 

I just purchased one rod and 5 discs.

 

Remember folks... this can only be accomplished with, you guessed it... a fumoto valve!!

 

Think you quoted the wrong person there bubs

 

I bet some of the Permatex high temp sealant would work just fine. I just happened to notice that the non-magnetic drain plugs on these trucks have a concave recess on the end. I wonder if sanding/grinding this "dimple" to add a little more surface are for grab, applying some permatex and bonding the neodymium plug to it would work. I am not sure if the Toyota fill plugs that do not have magnets would be magnetic, this would be optimal to keep the new magnet in place and pressed against the bonding agent. These are some great ideas.

 

I felt an overwhelming sense of calm watching this.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yc_tB8DsP8Q

 

Not what I meant, pal. I'm comparing the new fumoto vs the old fumoto. You're right that its constricted compared to the OG drain diameter, but my point is that the difference is negligible. Regardless of your vehicle.

These things are predominantly used in the industrial sector. They have bigger vales for your 13 quart whatever-it-is that you drive.

 

Bro, you just told me that you like to visually inspect your oil prior to transferring it into the jug using a funnel but you're not tallying up the time it takes to do so.

How could it take you five minutes to cook your grits, when it takes the entire grit-eating world 20 minutes?

 

This thread is great. I’m actually starting to wait with anticipation for the next ridiculous post.

 

Serious question. If, on your next oil change, you notice glitter left over in the bottom of the pan, what do you plan to do next? Evidence of metal means that some damage has already been done, but the engine presumably continues to start and run. Do you immediately stop the oil change and proceed to pull the engine to inspect your cams, sleeves and bearings? However isn't some glitter considered acceptable? We've all seen it at the bottom of the oil filter housings especially after break-in. How do you visually determine the quantity of glitter that would be considered acceptable or not?

Y'all think I'm crazy, but if you don't have a plan for this, then why bother checking?

 

If there is a concern with metal showing up in the oil, the next step could be to do an oil analysis. It may be possible to find out if it is babbitt or copper from a bearing or other metals that would indicate what is wearing or failing. I would want to know if a problem existed that could lead to a bad day on the road or off-road and try to head it off before hand. My hope would be that the warranty had not expired

 

I love it

 

If I found particulate in my oil I would look inward at myself.

1. Should I shorten the change intervals?
2. Should I consider a different oil?
3. Should I consider a different oil filter?

Are any of us actually finding oil particulate that would cause ANY concern? If so, I’d love to understand more so a root cause could possibly be determined.

If this even a small problem I would expect there to be a thread on this. I’m not the best at finding things on here so if any of you techies know of any threads I would be interested in reading and learning. Thanks!

 

Most vehicles are driven daily and maintain a layer of oil on the internal parts. It is when a vehicle sits for a long period of time that the metal parts loose a layer of oil. Start up without pre-oiling after extended time can cause premature wear, in addition to any corrosion during the time of inactivity. Not an issue for most people but for example I have a second vehicle for a second home so each tend to go for 6 months or more without being driven. It is also a problem with aircraft which tend to be flown infrequently, pre oiling is a thing with planes for that reason. It is the camshaft and the type of friction specific to a camshaft that would be my primary concern.

Here is Textron's requirements:

SUBJECT: Pre-Oiling Engine Prior to Initial Start

MODELS AFFECTED: All Textron Lycoming engines.

Prior to initial start after engine change, overhaul, oil cooler replacement or draining or any prolonged period of inactivity.

 

About 30 years ago l overhauled a Lycoming and the manual at that time asked the propeller to be rotated until oil flowed, it freaking took forever!

 

I love this thread. It has everything! A nerd and his oil. Many questions as to why a thing when other thing exists. It has drama and maybe explosions. A tangent about magnets, htf to they work?

13/10, fumoto thread forever!