Anti-seize lubricant on spark plug threads?

It would not surprise me people using locktite instead of never seize having no clue

 

I’m as fast once as I ever was.

 

Well the fact I am a heathen as the school teachers said that makes things rough

 

Wasn't that a country song?

 

Same here, and my thoughts exactly. I mean that's the whole intention is to maintain or stay in a lubricated state to prevent seizing. Sounds to me like someone was confusing anti-seize with lock-tight.

Kidding aside, the only negative I ever heard about in this regard was over-torquing the plug due to the lubrication provided by the anti-seize. This is why the torque spec for with its use is like 9 ft, lbs. and without I think like 20. Not quoting actual specs but the difference is drastic.

You defiantly need to be conservative with its use both in quantity and torque. If we were to be serious about diagnosing what had happened in the cases the gentleman was referring to. I would venture to guess that the damage he was repairing was done at the time of the plugs install by over-torquing.

The fact that he found the damage when servicing etc. I would say is coincidental and had been there since the day the plugs were installed waiting to be found out.

You would not believe the lack of resistance you feel on a normal size 3/8" plug ratchet set up when a plug has anti-seize on it in comparison to a dry install. It is pretty easy to go too far with aluminum threads. Plug installs are one of the few times I am really concerned with torq specs when performing routine preventive maintenance.

 

Yeup

 

Good info. I’ve never lubricated spark plug threads. Here’s an interesting article -
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/anti-seize-spark-plug-threads/
If I were to use an anti-seize lubricant, say for concerns running plugs 100,000 miles in an aluminum block, I would probably use Neolube 1 or 2 rather than a copper based lubricant, I’ve used it in other applications, it’s conductive, goes on lightly and excels at preventing thread galling even at higher temps and doesn’t harden up.

 

I put some locktite red in there as well. Helps me sleep good at night knowing my plugs aren't going anywhere

 

Whooooo full send!

 

I wish the MythBusters were still a thing. They could have setup some alloy blocks, threaded some holes in them, figured out how hot the alloy got in a motor during operation, and then recreated that and tested it against various amounts of plugs/anti seize/etc...

Ultimately this will probably be debated endless in this context.

I have always applied an extremely small amount of anti seize to the threads of the plugs before installing them. I have never used a torque wrench... just finger tight + a little nudge, and I've never had any issues removing them.

The only issue I've ever had removing a spark plug was on a friends rig- which I wouldn't count as an actual issue... The engine didn't have enough time to cool before we tried to pull the plugs. A few of them came out easily, and one didn't. We let the motor cool more before trying again, and it came out without an issue.

To each their own this subject.

 

Project farm on YouTube…if you suggest it, he might just do it (albeit with a lawnmower engine or something).

 

Its funny you should mention that.....
if a thread has a coating of Locktite.... thereby encasing it...that is exactly the same as anti-seize....
all the old farts know that....

That bolt will never seize.......unless u cook it to death.....or lots of snow melt....
might take a torch because of the head sticking/welding thing...but the threads never will....
effectively canceling the galvanic effect....tooo
for all you Mr Bullwinkle's

And Hey
dont put down my red locktite......you can effectively lock a car with it......
melt it open in the morning.......

 

Iron heads? Yea I put a dab. Aluminium heads? Nothing. Tighten by feel… never had an issue


I’ve removed plugs that were installed for over 200k (alot of neglected cars out here) and never had a issue getting plugs out or damaging threads with no antiseize

 

The only place spark plug anti seize is debated endlessly is tacomaworld.

Some people still think the world is flat. No use debating that either.

 

I missed a bunch of this debate, I was busy reading all the posts on here about problems caused by using anti seize on bolts.

 

Two words. Galvanic action. In the mid-late 90's Yamaha used an aluminum alloy in their outboards that loved trading ions with the fasteners they used. It was legend in the outboard repair community that if you didn't take it apart and anti-seize the threads in the first few years of ownership then you probably were not going to be able to get it apart when you needed to. With age comes wisdom. Some of you obviously have never seen your steel fasteners come out with aluminum threads welded to them through galvanic action. Spare the anti-seize or sacrificial anodes...and you will.

 

For those of you who always do what Toyota recommends, Toyota recommends you have a qualified Toyota technician change your spark plugs.

For those who think what was used in factory installations is the right thing always, they seemed to have failed on occasion. Frames from mid 1990’s to beyond 2010 come to mind. On Tacoma, Tundra, 4 Runner, some Lexus, basically all full frame trucks and SUV’s? For about 15 years.

I think this site is all about people who want to do their own thing and not do what Toyota recommends, ie. getting the dealer to change your spark plugs.

 

I buy the lifetime spark plugs then use permanent thread locker on them, making sure to tighten down as hard as I can.

I also run lifetime oil and filter, making sure to strip the shit out of my oil pan drain plug since I will never need to open it again anyways.

 

I drill a new hole in my oil pan each time I drain oil. Then I TIG weld the hole closed. Because I don't trust myself to not crossthread the drain plug.