RSI Smart Cap

I sleep in mine, on a 6ft bed. Im 6 ft though, so that's fun. I built a half platform with 5ft drawer underneath that has a leaf that I can put out across the full width of the bed and sleep diagonally (its just me usually). I also have the RSI integrated table which I love, but it detracts from the little headroom I have.

Condensation in the cold is a real problem with these. I have no idea if it also happens the same with fiberglass, this is my first truck and cap. I camped with mine at least half a dozen times in the damp Appalachian air in sub 40-30, and woke up with a wet down bag and dripping condensation on my face. I thought the vent on the top might help but no. Easy solution was to deploy my awnings and keep one side open, or open one of the sliding windows on mine. There are of course lots of issues with the former but it works. On a super cold night the sliding window is key, for me it seemed to let out just enough vapor to mitigate a lot of the condensation. I also managed to get out of the way of some of the drips too. Don't know if a felt or other material glued to the top might mitigate the condensation. In my mind it will keep drips from happening, but a liner will still get wet and never dry out in winter.

Additions Ive made for sleeping are: rechargeable magnetic pool lights (color selectable, aka love the red lights) with remote that velcros to the interior, a laptop battery sized USB battery pack that is kept plugged into a powerstrip for charging (run my led area lights and charge phones etc off of this), and a pull cord with a magnet on the inside of the rear door that allows me to pull it closed from the inside without heavy contortion of my body.

 

I slept in mine a couple weeks ago in Death Valley, it was below 40 at night, 5 ft bed. I’m only 5’6”. The first night I closed it all up and was pretty miserable, but was also trying to shake a cold. The window was cracked because I was kind worried it was too airtight, I know it’s not really. The second night I had just left the gate down and slept really well. I had my down bag wrapped with a silnylon tarp and the condensation that happened by my feet was unreal.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys, your experience is in line with what I expected. I guess I'll keep my ARE order.

 

Any updates on redesigned latches? Winter is approaching and the current latches freeze shut.

 

I have had the same experiences. I have slept in it all over the country, and in all different temperatures (75 - 30 ).

I have the Evo A, I very much enjoy the security of no windows on the side especially at rest areas the rare time I have to use them. The key to reducing condensation is some kind of airflow, the rear slider window, with a bug net is usually all that is needed. Couple that with a small fan bringing in air, or pushing it out, depending on the temperature and you'll be good. If I'm in a more safe area like the forest then I gladly keep the the front hatch open with a bug net, that is the best way to sleep, usually no condensation. If it gets too cold, close it, and make sure you lock the latches before you close it so they don't engage. While annoying they didn't make the latches able to be opened from the inside, (RSI please fix this, its literally my only issue so far) if you lock them while its open, then close the window it will stay closed as long as you don't kick it accidently. If worried about that I also use two bungie cords if I don't feel comfortable with the surroundings to keep the hatch from popping back open with my feet.

I also went to the hardware store and bought a 8 x 4 sheet of 1/2in pink insulation board and cut out each one of the rectangles between the cross braces. I attached them with magnetic tape, this helps reduce condensation, and also traps heat when its cold, and reduces heat transfer from sun when its hot. Highly recommend this upgrade, it costs almost nothing, and takes an hour if you can measure and cut. It wont look flashy but is such a cheap fix.

Ultimately, condensation is just part of life outside, if it's close to the dew point and especially when its cold and close to the dew point, its gonna get somewhat damp. This happens in tents and any other sleeping method to some extent. But if you let the thing have a little cross breeze through the above methods.

I love the thing. Its been through thunderstorms, snow storms, crazy winds on the mountain side and it feels like a tank. You definitely need to make sure you torque and re torque each bolt if you get leaks, initially. I got leaks initially but then after two re torques the bolts were good from then on out. My guess is the metal has to settle into position after install. You also definitely have to seal in all the places discussed in this forum, but that's with every cap, and this one does far better once done, trust me.

The latches and the cheap keys are the only issue. Don't let them be the reason for not getting this product. It can be worked around very easily, and hopefully is fixed completely soon.

Long review, but hope it helps any reading and wondering. I was once that guy on here before I got it.

 

nailed it, doesn't matter what the shell is made of, wrong temps and no air flow in a small area and there will be condensation issues, no matter which shell there are ways to work around that, I'm going to make screens for my caps windows "I got the sport model" and I'm thinking of fabbing up a latch for the inside so I can lock myself in and also drill a small hole from the inside of the factory latches so I can open it from the inside if I were to be locked in, as said above key your latches locked while open so they cant be locked from the outside

 

Let me know how your latch plan goes, with all the production issues in the world can't bank on RSI getting it soon. (but please RSI get it soon )

 

I shoved a ball of socks between the lock mechanism and the cap when I was inside. I only did it for the tail panel. I was thinking what if someone comes through the campsite and decides to push my latches shut, these socks will save me. And the “sock blocker 2000” was invented.

 

looking at the latch mechanism it is very simple, one option would be to drill out the back of the latch housing large enough that you could stick something from the inside between the latch "like maybe a small bolt ground to fit between the latch and open lock peace" and lock so that the latches cant be opened from the outside, use a solid rubber grommets to keep the holes plugged for normal day to day to prevent leaks

just lock the latch when in the open position and nobody can latch it shut from the outside

 

For those that have been asking about latches, a few updates. Smartcap has a new set that will likely be available in the December, possibly January time frame. From what we've been told, a lot of folks have been wanting these and like most things right now there's limited quantities available. We have also confirmed that there will be a cost for these lock sets, but we have not been provided that exact price at this time. If you're wanting a new set of locks, submit a warranty claim requesting to be added to the list for new locks. Smartcap will get you added to the list for those wanting a set.

Warranty claim website link - https://www.na.rsismartcap.com/warranty

 

Great info thanks!

 

Submitted my claim for the latches and their response is below.

"Thanks for your mail.
I will add your details to our list and reach back out once we have costing and availability of these. A limited few will be brought in first though so I cannot tell you at this point in time if there will be a set available for you right away. there might be a wait till next year for more to be made available."

 

Sounds about right. I’m wondering if we in the mean time drill drain holes in the bottom back side of the latch if it will help. I know water pools inside the latch. I’d rather have a little water in my bed over a frozen latch.

 

I’d go fiberglass if I was going to sleep in the back of the truck. Plus most of the fiberglass toppers can be opened from the inside at no additional cost. I’ve owned all types of toppers and that’s just my opinion from experience. Little to no condensation build up when you have carpet and glue over fiberglass. No matter what, you have to contend with the bed though. The bed gets cold AF and needs to be insulated for any setup in the back of the truck.

 

It's no worse than a tent. The appropriate sleeping bag and sleeping pad under and you'll be fine.

No carpet on the inside of the RSi is definitely going to cause some condensation though but it's all airflow dependent and you can easily crack the window between the shell and the bed for that. As others have mentioned the composite bed in the tacoma is going to better than an all metal bed in terms of insulation.

 

Yup. The circuit wiring is fine to handle both. You have to upsize the fuse to 5A from 3A though.

 

Here's my solution for crossbars. I have the luxury of working for a 3D printing company, so I designed up some feet and printed them in 17-4SS. Mounted them to the channels and then cut some pieces of 80/20 and done.

 

I'll take a little condensation that can be wiped up with a towel over cracked fiberglass any day

 

Facts, I didn’t go with fiber glass because of the hardness of the steel canopy.

 

After a couple months of waiting, the store finally got my Smartcap and it got installed a couple of weeks ago!
I went with the Evo Adventure mainly because I prefer having the molle around the side doors instead of the windows.
To say that I'm happy with the build quality and sturdiness of this canopy is a big understatement...