Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

They’re very impressive. Definitely weird but impressive.

 

Are the traction boards on the roof for the Overlanding cred?

 

I'm interested to see how winching from the roof works out.

 

For moving trees or helping other vehicles that are stuck. Pretty sure this thing can’t get stuck

 

How true does the steering wheel hold with the full hydro? I have a major pet peeve with a steering wheel that isn’t centered and I know most full hydro rigs I’ve been in do not hold true and even wander around on the highway.

 

@81Trekker something that you mentioned I can’t remember how many pages back. You said no matter what people say welding trusses on the axles always will warp it. Just out of curiosity, then why do so many people do it? Just un educated or you think they just don’t care?

 

It has to be done properly with a setup jig and all is fine. It’s when people toss a truss on and start burning it in without cool down periods or spacing out the heat that issues arise. The biggest issue is the stamped Toyota housings are especially prone to warpage. Dana 60’s and whatnot with massive tubes and super heavy center sections aren’t as much of an issue.

 

Makes sense. Thanks. Just curious because I’ve seen so many people do it without jigs.

 

I think the reason so many people do it is because a mind set driven by initial cost and that there is pretty broad tolerances for how well the axles have to fit into the side gears. They simply get away with it in most situations.

 

Not sure with the new ram and pivot kit, only drove it down the street and back so the suspension would settle. My old TG 2.5 ram with caster set at around 5 degrees didnt have great return to center and the steering wheel would be off a bit after a few miles of driving. But it doesnt bother me, half the steering racks i had in the truck would skip teeth and my steering wheel was never straight.

 

is from Russia? It doesn't move, the earth moves under it... winching, same thing.

 

So these are in water and deep bogs and what not a lot. There is a hatch to get out and get to the hatch you want an upward pull when you're sectioned down in some nasty muck. Now hooking up the winch when you're stuck like that good luck.

 

I’m starting to think the bouncing I’m experiencing at 40mph is frame related or frame exacerbated. It’s definitely worse with more weight in the back and I read a very compelling topic on another forum about it from someone with a similar weight set up.

Lots of weight on the very front and lots of weight on the very back making for a flexy middle/back. Debating on how to stiffen the frame up…would be interested to hear if anyone has boxed their frame and triangulated some crossbars and it stopped the ridiculous amount of movement between the cab and bed.

 

@Evenflow

 

The key is tube chassis/ cage front to rear. Stiff as fuck. Just like she likes it

 

That’d probably fix it. No doubt more than I’m able or willing to do.

I can’t hit a pothole without a hellacious reverb for two blocks. I can watch the sliding glass in the cab and my shell move an inch left to right going over bumps. There’s got to be a way to stop it short of a cage.

 

Harry said previously it’s best to just cage it first instead of beating around the bush. That’s what I’m doing first before I get my LT.

 

A caged 2nd Gen Tacoma would be laughable down here in the land of exocages and tube chassis. Wrong tool for the job. Maybe it does take something as drastic as a cage to eliminate the reverb. I hope not.

 

Exo cage would be good enough to net the same result. I strongly considered an exo for mine but landed on interior because I like to go fast

 

Different worlds