Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Definitely. Just saying as far as frame stiffening goes. The exo would suffice

 

Yep I like the cleanliness of the tucked tight interior cage bodies just don't last long here with that. My jeep is a prime example

 

That’s why you need to move to the west! I lived in Georgia for a year working at plant Vogle and hated it. The people were super nice though. My sinuses are still jacked up from the allergies I had over there.

 

I don’t doubt it would work, it would just look ridiculous to have a caged IFS 2nd Gen taco around here. It’s almost silly to pull up to a park full of trailered truggies and bouncers as it is.

 

1 3/4 by .120 wall around here is 10$ a foot. All our electrical jobs, the material is nuts. Wire, electrical gear and lighting pricing has gone insane. PVC piping is even worse right now. PVC is almost more expensive than steel. Jobs are delayed up to 6 months because they can’t get steel.

 

Born and raised so that shit doesn't bother me

Ummmm there are a few I can think of but they don't have any more truck functions. You'll be able to stiffen it up some but a lot or work has to go into it and it still won't completely get rid of the racking.

 

Try boxing in the frame where the “S” is going under the cab a foot or two each way and workout a crossmember or two and see what that does. That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Or just cut the frame off midway under the rear doors and 2x4 all the way back with crossmembers. At that point just cage it though. Lol

 

um yeah… so @81Trekker & I are going to be testing the full boxed frame idea here soon. We are going to do it in stages to see exactly what gains we get from each idea ie something like this :

step 1- box the rest of my frame

step 2- put the sliders back on

step 3- add a v brace from frame rail to rail crossing near the t-case cross member

The idea is to see just how stiff we can get the frame without going full brotard and caging my daily driver

 

I’m interested to see how it goes. If I’m going through the effort of pulling my shell and bed I want to do it right the first time. I’m fighting the urge to randomly weld shit and shift stress points to areas not boxed and potentially end up with a folded taco

 

Try to incorporate a new cross member (replace stock one)for a two piece driveline center support bearing (1350 2 Piece Driveshaft Carrier Bearing – TMR Customs? that will also be flush or slightly recessed from the bottom of frame to provide another skid plate mount. Already threw this idea out to Harry. I have other ideas as well. To replace bed with a tube structure that would tie into there LT shock mounts and still provide a bed rail that stock fenders could be mounted to then carry it into cab (rear seat delete 4dr.) at rear seat height (would then provide structure for a platform). At this point I am just brain storming.

 

I have a one piece drive shaft so that crossmember is already gone. I am not giving up any seating, running any tubing into my cab, deleting my bed or adding any more skids to trap heat under the cab.

I have rear Corbeau buckets and a shell and use my bed. The whole point of what we are trying to do is to stiffen the chassis and not lose anything.

 

also - i’ve run a solid carrier bearing before and someone should warn you that you will feel it and hear it. You’re bolting a solid bearing to your frame and losing all drive line dampening. Great for dedicated trail rigs but bad idea for a daily.

 

I can stomp on the rear of my slider and see the shell wiggle half an inch back and forth between the cab. It’s a straight up noodle.

Every time I crawl under there I don’t see much room to work with. Maybe I can plate the outside of some sections? Gas tank and exhaust are in the best place for a crossmember in the “S” shape of the frame…

 

I’m going to science the shit out of this

 

In before the bans

 

is there a forum rule about bad Matt Damon memes i’m not aware of ?

 

No. I'm just being snide.

 

Side note, after 3-4 adjustments of the fittings I think I got them all to seat and seal properly. As of right now I have no more leaks

 

Well I'm finally doing the Sua. Took 2 of us 3 hours to pull the bed, cut off and smooth out all my welded on 63 swap crap, and get the rivets out.

Unfortunately also found this...