0W-20 vs. 05W-20 in the 2.7L, does it really matter?

toyodajeff has raised a good question concerning the PCV. I am planning to replace it while replacing the cylinder head gaskets which I found to be a source of oil loss.

 

Well crap

Well crap, I returned it (the PCV) to Napa yesterday while I was picking up a few things. It would have helped for me to have taken the new one out of the box to find threads which would have made it self-explanatory.

But am I right that it is showing a horizontal position on the drawing? I was assuming that what looks like a 5/8" insulated sleeved hose coming from the back of the intake box centered over the top of the engine to the rear-mounted vertically was the PCV. Your ID marker is hiding some of the detail.

 

Yeah that’s about where’s it’s at. I thought it was made into the valve cover but from that parts diagram looks like it screws in

 

Agreed, but is there a different location from one year to another? As I said the drawing looks to show one location and position and mine if I am looking at the actual PCV is in another.

 

That maybe the best option in this case.

 

At 200k, that engine is usually just getting started, if the proper recommended maintenance was performed. But since we know that not the case, I would try Mobil1 0W-20 full synthetic High Mileage, and stick with it, or the brand of your choice as constant brand switching may have played more of a part in the issue.
Moreover, I would extend the OCI interval to 10k (miles) for at least a couple times and just add with same type oil, as required before going to my preferred 5k OCI to allow the shedding of materials that normally occurs to build up and take-up or fill some of the clearances that might have been lost, If that makes any sense.

Also I would replace the PCV every 25k or two years whichever comes first too, as it should help in controlling oil leaks around gaskets & seals.

 

Suggest to replace the PCV. Its a cheap part and won't hurt a thing, although may help.

Stick with the Oil Change Interval you are comfortable using. Check the Maintenance Schedule for YOUR truck about oil change interval. Another possible location for oil seepage is the valve cover gasket. Pull a spark plug or two, look for oil in the spark plug well.

You could bump to 5w-30 with no worries. My '06 4.0L recommends 5w-30 at 5 kmile intervals.


Your oil consumption sounds normal. It could be from worn valve stem seals or the oil ring on the piston. Both are invasive work for repair.

 

I would agree with (Just top it off and drive it) once I know that I have done my due diligence regarding repairable issues. Especially when you consider that this whole concern could be as simple as the PCV valve fix.
To date thanks largely to TW people my truck has been completely transformed mechanically. I like the idea of "just driving it", and will once I am satisfied I've done my part maintenance or repair wise.

 

If you want to start narrowing the cause down: Pull plugs and chexk conditions. Get a cheap bore scope and check for cylinder wall damage. Do a leak down test, comp rings can still be good though so may not show the issue if its not valve seals. Cats will absorb a ton of oil, so you wont see it out the exhaust for a while.

 

I have yet to see a case in which replacing a PCV valve "fixed" an oil burning or leaking issue. But that's just me. But I have seen very good results in keeping pesty oil leaks around gaskets and seals from leaking. It is usually (PCV) a spring loaded device, and after all, what do springs normally do when extending and retracting umpteen times?? Yeah, they weaken at best.

Good luck

 

These things are on the list for sure, that is if they prove to be necessary after all neglected preventative wear items are brought current. As you may have guessed, I just discovered through enough miles driven that she was using oil. As many have speculated, it may well be a normal catachrestic reality of this engine with this many miles.

PCV replacement is what I would consider one of those normal preventative maintenance items. I have heard that a bad one can contribute to oil loss, but I have no idea as to what degree.

All things considered, I feel sure it will go well in the end and thanks to these combined efforts we will figure it out. In the meantime, I am enjoying the learning experience and self-performed repairs. Adding the TW interaction makes for a nice place to hang out and talk Tacos.

 

Well here's an update. Thanks to ARB1977 I have identified the PCV location and yeah I had it wrong. Also while I was finding that I located a sizable valve cylinder head gasket leak.

I think my problem is I'm working on my truck at night with limited lighting. It's pretty wet around the entire left side of the engine. Not running out but plenty oil damp. I'll post pics tomorrow.

So I guess from here the first question is; "how long will it take you guys to get here to help replace it"?

1. Is this ever rectified by snugging the cover back down to spec? I will be sure and take care of the PCV while I have such good access.

 

Sometimes you can get by with tightening the Valve Cover Bolts. Better idea is to just replace the valve cover gasket. It is cheap and easy to do on the 2TR-FE 4 Banger.

 

there is NO remedy for what has transpired over age + mileage

& whatever previous practices

best to continue with prev agenda

1 quart / 1500 is NOT terrible ...........................

 

Good info, I have watched a few vids since this posting, and it looks pretty straightforward. Should be a good coming weekend project if the weather holds. OEM, Gasket set the better available?

 

I disagree with oil burning being a normal characteristic of this engine. This usually happens to neglected oil changes 10k or longer where sludge has an opportunity to build-up and destroy rings/block or other cause.

My advice would be to make triple sure the oil leak is coming from the head gasket, as that is usually quite noticeable. You may even hear a pumping sound like hissing, bad miss, odor. I would clean the area, take pics, clean above said leak well, run and re-check before doing any work on the head.

This ^^

Yes this is normal on many new vehicles. From high $$ BMW's to cheap chebbies. On an old used TOYOTA I'll live with it. On a new one? Not acceptable to me.

 

thought we were referring to a 200k+ engine....................

NO mention of NEW any type o vehicle

years & mileage not exactly representative of neglect or abuse

crappy bump/grind daily commuter driving will degrade an engine

runnin this a that oil will also glaze the rings

time & factors can raise their ugly lil heads & bite the scrotum

 

My reference to new is not of the OP engine with 200k, but that a lot of new high price vehicles are known to burn oil at as little as 800-1500 miles and have been declared as normal in the past by the said high priced auto makers. Also I would not accept being told that of a new (hypothetical) TOYOTA for me. No new TOYOTA I have ever owned has ever burnt oil, I just change it 5k and about the same amount of oil comes out, as was put in.

 

Not sure what you mean by valve cylinder head gasket. Head gasket or valve cover gasket. Valve cover gasket is easy, mine leaked also on the left side dripping on the exhaust and not leaving any oil on the ground I tried snugging down the bolts but didn’t work. Gasket was rock hard brittle when removed. I think I got a fel pro replacement from rock auto. Was good quality, might check the dealer and see if it’s a similar price.

wouldn’t hurt to get some degreaser and brushes and wash the oily grime off around where the leak is before you tear into it. Just to make sure you don’t replace a gasket that’s not leaking. Also you’ll get to inspect the inside of the motor to see how sludged up it is if any.

If you’ve done diy stuff before it should be an hour or a little longer job. Might as well replace the pcv while your in there.

 

Not sure if this engine has them, but as long as the valve cover is off

I remember when auto manufacturers would say 800 miles to a quart was acceptable to them. With today's modern machining and oils, I'd say 1500 to a quart is questionably unacceptable, at least in a new vehicle. But his is used. If it's not the machining, it would be inferior material used in components, then design. I do think Toyota is better than this.

https://www.germanautomeisters.com.au/signs-of-a-bad-pcv-valve/