Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Plating the outside of the frame isn’t going to do much, it needs to be boxed in. The tank and exhaust need to be dropped and it’s an easy job. I’ve already made templates to plate the entire frame and have everything cut out. As soon as I finish up with my current projects I’m gonna pull @Evenflow in and get started with fully boxing his frame along with inner fenders and anything else he wants since I pretty much owe him my life at this point

 

Let’s say I box in everything to the CB and throw in a crossmember or two wherever there’s room, do you feel that would eliminate the flex? I don’t mind doing the work if I feel confident it’ll fix it. I just haven’t seen anyone say it has solved the issue. Maybe I’m not looking hard enough.

 

Those crossmembers need triangulation as well not just straight across.

 

I know it will make a big difference. Will it completely solve the problem... we will find out. What I do know is adding a proper cage to a Tacoma makes a night and day difference, the problem is 100% eliminated

 

Would some sort of bed cage help any? Might just shift stress to the middle though. Just thinking of ways to get trusses up higher. I guess that’s why exo and interior cages are so effective. Creating a giant triangulated box instead of a “flat” frame trussed together would make it much more difficult for the frame rails to want to move independently vertically.

 

Bed cage will just make it worse. You need to stiffen the entire chassis front to rear

 

Curious to see how it turns out. I’m trying to look at it from a safety standpoint. I’ve been in a rollover and doing a cage like Harry did could potentially save your life if you get t-boned or in a rollover. I’d feel way safer driving down the road with that then some thin metal. The Toyota seats are terrible for long trips so wanted to do a custom interior anyways so figured mine as well do a cage while I am at it.

 

Toyota needs better seats in pretty much every vehicle I find them all to be crap

 

My wife’s 98 4 runner seats are way more comfortable then mine. Yeah they are absolutely terrible. My legs always fall asleep.

 

I hope you guys don't mind me derailing the thread a bit more, but I trust your collective judgment and plan to begin installing various JD parts as funds allow (starting with spindle gussets/double sheer steering) and feel a better welder is an important part of the process.

I've been welding on an amateur level for a long time and part of what's holding me back is my old Lincoln MIG welder and its inconsistent wire feed speed. I'm not brand loyal to Lincoln but a PowerMig 260 or a Miller 252/255 are high on my list. The ESAB Rebel multiprocess line has caught my interest for a while now, too, as it'd be great to learn to TIG. I've got access to 220V and land/farm/heavy machinery so the welder would see 1/2" from time to time. What are y'alls thoughts? You can PM me to keep things sano here if necessary. Thanks!

 

255’s are complete junk as they are inverter based and the 252 is probably the best mig welder ever made. For tig I like the dynasty 280 but be prepared to spend $10k with it all set up

 

I've heard that about the 255 from you before and Jesse mentioned his dislike for it in a JD video as well. Really good to know. Thanks.

There's a well used 252 for sale near me that I've been eyeing and your response will push me to enquire. Thanks for the heads-up, Harry.

 

Big thing is it needs to be built properly so you don't brain yourself in an impact. So, if you have to pay somebody you're talking upwards of 10k + for a cage.

 

I strongly dislike any Miller inverter mig welder for that matter, the only good mig welder they make anymore is the 252. I’m also very picky and have spent thousands and thousands of hours welding so I notice subtle differences most people probably won’t

 

I’m going to do something similar to how Harry did his. I’ve bent up to 4 inch ridgid conduit on multiple types of hydraulic benders for electrical work the last 6 years so I am familiar with the techniques of bending pipe. Just need to practice and get used to the pipe bender. I am doing some small projects before I attempt the cage. With proper harnesses and a cage that you actually think about and don’t just slap together I’m not too worried about it. Personally I’d rather be in a harness in a cage in an accident then getting knocked out by airbags.

 

I've seen your welds and your work which is precisely why I'm thankful you responded.

 

I’m no god with a welder. But my everlast welders have been incredible. Owned my tig/plasma for 6 years now and my mig for a couple. Fraction of the price and IMO just as high of quality output as the expensive ones.

 

I’ve used a few everlast welders and can confirm they work good especially for the money. The downside is they have no dealers and their warranty/customer service is awful. I know of a few that lasted for a couple months before breaking and then there are others that have been around for years.

 

I had an issue with my first tig after 6 months. They treated me very well. My buddy that turned me on to them had an issue just before his 5 year warranty was up and they took care of him as well. Maybe things have changed. All I know is I have maybe 4K into a tig/plasma with water cooler and my mig. I’d be well over 10 with Miller. But the difference is, I’m not welding every day. So reliability hasn’t been a huge concern.

 

I’ve had a 210 Hobart mvp for a while and love it. Can’t speak for any tig though. Don’t have the room for another welder right now. Definitely would like to learn in the future though.