Stiff rear end after lift? You got the wrong shocks

A+ thread OP good research I've had these on for a week or two now and they soften things up nicely. Better than 5100's and MUCH better than emu.

 

Glad I could help!

 

what do you recommend for a no lift stock height taco?
i have original equipment on mine still 23 years old and looking to get some new ones.
the quote for it is about $275 with these part #s
48531-09053
48531-09023
the picture they showed me are black like stocks so no weird colors lol

 

Couldn't tell you, as I am not sure what the factory travel numbers are. I would just look for something valved 170/60.

 

This is a great thread. Love the Bilstein catalogue you shared!

From the numerous suggestions from another thread on TW, I ended up buying

$100 Bilstein 33-186542 Bilstein Shock, B8 5125 Series, Monotube, 15.12 in Compressed / 24.35 in Extended, 46 mm, Steel, Zinc Plated, Each

Bilstein 33-186542 for the rear which appears to have the 255/70 valving. I've paired these with the OME Dakar leafs and their AAL (D43XL?)

According to the catalogue, they're for 66-77 Ford Broncos and a variety of older Jeeps from the 70's and 80's. Cool!

I've got no complaints so far about my setup so far. Probably worked out considering I usually have some significant weight in the back when I go camping.

 

If you go to 170/60 it will ride better.

 

Even under heavy load?

The 170 refers to the thickness of the shims controlling the flow of oil inside the shock during compression, correct?

Wouldn't you want a shock absorber with a higher compression rate (thicker shims) for heavy load applications? Canopy, Sliding drawer setup, camp supplies, extra gas, water, etc.

I feel like if I were to use a shock with a higher flow of compression or "less resistance", I'd be more prone to bottoming out.

That being said, I don't know very much about the technical side of shocks!

 

You said you had weight in the back when camping, what about the other 90% of the time you'll be driving it? I would prefer a softer ride, hence the thread. Just me though

 

This is my thoughts exactly. I'll deal with a sagging rear and non-ideal performance when off road and loaded with weight. That only comprises of less than 1% of my driving time.

I do have one question before I hit "buy now" on these 33-230443 Bilsteins.

I am getting Dakar leaf springs which give 2-2.25" of lift. Are the lengths of these shocks appropriate?

Edit: Nvm, just clicked on your build thread and saw your Alcan 2.5" set up. I should be good to go.

btw - I friggen love the space gray color. How's the dip held up?

 

holding up nice, I haven't even washed it since I re-dipped it in April lol

 

And so just to confirm... the

Bilstein 33-230443 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

33-230443 Bilsteins are good for the Dakar 2-2.25" rear leaf springs? I know we're limited by the shock length just given the way our rear shocks mount, but I'm fine with these shocks and those leafs?

Thanks.

 

should be good to go, you'll be limited a little on downtravel, but yeah.. that's just because the stock shock location is crap

 

Getting an empty bed Tacoma to ride smooth is eaaaasy girlfriend!

Take custom springs bout 2.25" lift ($500), a pair of shocks from this thread ($200), and a set of 3.5 durobumps ($140)

 

I picked up a pair of these 5125s and the

$10 9.8108G 3/4" Hourglass Shock Eye Bushing

9.8108G bushings, got the bushings installed on the new shocks today and went to try to install on the truck. I could not get the shock to slide onto the mounts, either on the frame or on the lower mount. It looks like they should fit, I think I got the right bushings, but there's a small convex bump on the inside of the bushing that I can't push past.

To the guys who've installed these, @ThunderOne @Wulf @Boone Wesley Is there some trick to getting these on?

 

I do not think there was any bump inside the bushings I received

How big is it exactly? If it's not too large a little lube and a BFH to get it started

 

It's pretty small, I tried taking some pictures and I'm not sure if it's even really visible.



This is one of the original bushings that Bilstein shipped, it's the center portion of the hourglass bushing that seems to be slightly raised and giving me some resistance. I think I have the bushings seated correctly, but wasn't sure if there were any tricks I should try before breaking out the big hammer. I used some lube, but I didn't want to wail on it until I asked here.

 

The answer: Smack the shit out of them (by the eye) with a rubber mallet or dead blow, after you get them sorta started. Silicone spray helps.

 

Ah, I misunderstood, mine looked like that as well. Send it on

 

It's also important to try to get them attached when your springs are drooped at the exact point where the shock is at its max length, so there isn't any fighting with the shock (i.e. needing to compress it) to get it on

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I was able to get the shocks on, I removed the bushings last night and noticed some rough spots on inside of the shock eyes, especially where the eye is welded to the body. I hit them both with a dremel sanding drum for a minute or so on each eye and knocked down any rough spots. After that I was able to hammer the shocks on without much trouble.

Took a quick test drive and could notice the change, feels like the rear end is a bit more cushioned and softer. Need some more driving time to really get a sense of the difference though.