Loctite or no?

Installing my lift Friday morning. Contemplating whether or not I should use loctite on the two bolts connecting the LCA to the spindle. I had one fall out randomly years ago def did not use loctite then so leaning towards some blue.

Is there any reason not to use loctite on the LCA bolts or anywhere else?

 

They come with red lock locktite from the factory. I do lift installs and always apply a small amount of red when re-installing.

Also torque spec for those 2 bolts is 118 ft lb.

 

Red always

 

Thanks man. In agreement with me that the UCA does not need unbolted to get the strut in? Just watched some Youtube videos and questioned what the hell they were doing. I remember it being a bitch to get my UCA back in when I had to replace my spindle. Not sure how similar the Tacomas are to FJs but they look nearly identical in the front.

 

Yeah removing the UCA is not required or recommended for coilover install. Some folks prefer to separate the UCA ball joint and remove the coilover that way.

I still prefer to remove the 2 lower bolts like you plan to do. Also I remove the sway bar completely, just so I'm not fighting in on removal/install. Good idea to loosen the brake line and abs sensor line brackets as well, don't want to stretch those.

 

Thanks for the affirmation. Noted on the sway bar.

 

Sorry do you know the torque specs on the rest off hand? If not no worries I'll find them somewhere.

U bolts
Front Strut Top/Bottom
Rear Shock Top/Bottom

 

I don't, most LCA fuck ups aren't fixed with loctite, they are crossthreaded and pull out.

A dab won't hurt. But I actually lubricate them so they go in clean.

 

U bolts debatable - 85 ft lb.

Front shock top - Gutten-tight
Front bottom - 61 Ft lb

Rear shock top - Gutten-tight
Rear bottom - 74 Ft lb

Torque front and rear shock lowers once vehicle is back on the ground.

 

That makes me feel better, because I didn’t when I did mine.

I bought my 2nd Gen used, so I don’t know it’s previous repair history.
I saw no signs of threadlocker on my LCA bolts.
But my caliper bolts definitely had red loctite on them.

Since I saw no Thread-Locker on the LCA bolts, and manual didn’t say to use it, I didn’t
I did use blue on the caliper bolts. As I had a heck of a time fighting the Red.

FWIW, OP - It can’t hurt. Do what makes you feel best.

 

I didn't after a spindle replacement and lost one probably 30k miles after but also never retorqued. After replacing they all lasted until I sold around 90k miles. Going with red just for the comfort.

 

Was this on a 2nd off 3rd Gen.

I’ve only ever heard of this happening on 1st Gens with the 4 smaller bolts

 

Was an 07 TRD FJ Cruiser that I cry daily about for selling.

 

Yeah, did they use the same 2 bolts?
The 2 that torque to 118 ft/lb?

BTW, I love FJ’s.
You can’t find a good used one around here.
And if you can, they are asking $25k+ for them.

 

With lifted you have basically compress everything using the 2 bolts. Spacer lifts especially. So I like lube a free flowing bolts.

The 1st gens are miserable, they seize and break, massive asshole to repair. So I use anti-seize lol.

I want to work on cars in california lol.

 

So you wouldn’t worry about using ThreadLocker on a stock truck either?

BTW, where are you located. I live in the South Eastern U.S.
We don’t see too much rust here.

I don’t know how the guys up North do it.
Seeing rust is like seeing snow for use southerners. We freak out.

 

I loved it was 6 speed AWD was running adjustable bilsteins and no sway bars. Surprisingly was really good off road hung with all the jeeps turning radius was stellar but was awful at steep hill climbs.

Pic was right before I sold it going by the no skids. Feel like it was #434 out of 1300 or something. I have then VIN but have yet to find it.

 

I'm in Calgary, so we are moderate rust, think us as canadian denver.

I only use loctite on things that spin and are dry. So pressure plate bolts, flywheels, some timing components.

But I have the experience to know what backs off and what doesn't. I used to use blue a lot after I saw a guy get fired for a loose caliper lol.

 

So all it needed was a regear, and it would have been “perfect”.
I’m not helping you get over your regret of selling it. Am I?

 

It's just an awful departure. Took it to Toyota dealer around 85k for clutch replacement. They forgot some transmission seal on the install and I didn't notice on the 250 mile drive home. Gears were wonky after that and ultimately traded in for a WRX was driving 200 miles a day for work.